Panther6834

One thing to consider when purchasing SD cards, whether for a dashcam, camera, drone, or anything else that uses SD cards (including microSD)...the "fastest" is NOT always the fastest. For one thing, the capacity factors into the read & write speeds (and, remember, the write speed is FAR more important). Additionally, different brands have different speeds, even when comparing "identical" (ie. capacity, and classification). Case in point - SanDisk "Ultra" & "Extreme" cards. I just purchased Nikon's just-released Coolpix P1000 Ultra-Zoom camera, and needed to get an SD card for it. While the camera does support up to 512GB cards (if they're SanDisk, as the camera only supports up to 128GB Samsung cards), I decided that 128GB should be more than enough...although I would also consider two 64GB cards, depending on price, & read/write speeds (ie. if two 64GB cards were equal/less than the 128GB card and/or the 64GB card was significantly faster than the 128GB card). Anyway, I compared the specs of the Ultra & Extreme cards, in both 64GB & 128GB capacities. With the 64GB cards, the Extreme was noticeably faster than the Ultra, yet the price was only slightly higher. If I were to decide on a 64GB card, I would have gotten the SanDisk Extreme. However, I was still leaning towards the 128GB cards...and here's where things get we extremely (pun intended) 'interesting'. While the Extreme was faster than the Ultra with the 64GB cards, the opposite was true when it comes to the 128GB cards, as the Ultra is actually faster (for both read & write speeds) than the Extreme. Considering all four cards were on sale, the 128GB Ultra was the snag smartest/wisest decision. The moral of this story is, do NOT just go by the speed classification - while many U3 cards are faster than their comparable (ie. capacity) U1 cards, there ARE some U1 cards that are faster than their comparable U3 cards...when purchasing SD (or microSD) cards, ALWAYS compare the read/write speeds for the capacities you are considering. It's ok to "trade" a little speed for a higher-capacity card, but, if the speed difference is to great, then (especially for use in a dashcam) consider the next smaller capacity.

In some areas, retaining the cat is required by law, thus the reason the Yamaha/Yoshi exhaust system is (as far as I'm aware) the only n50-state legal replacement exhaust system. In my case, being in California, it's most definitely required. When I can afford it, the Yamaha/Yoshi system is what I'll be going with...and I'll be leaving it 'as-is'...well, with the exception of having 2WDW update the flash on my ECU.

If I remember correctly...and if it is the same connector as found on pre-2019 Tracers/FJ-09s...this is to add a second 12V "cigarette" accessory power plug (installed to the right of the display), identical to the factory-installed 12V accessory plug to the left of the display. The "sad" thing about both of these is that (as mentioned by others, in various threads) it is only 2A, as opposed to 3-5A. While a 2A plug is (barely) adequate for something like a GPS, it's not enough for most other plug-in accessories, such as a dual-USB adapter (most dual-USB adapters have either one 1A & one 2.1A, or two 2.1A). I wonder (meaning, I haven't checked on my '17 FJ) if it's possible to replace the fuse for this line only (ie. leave the left side 2A) with a slightly higher (again, 3-5A) fuse, which would make it perfect for installing a dual-USB port into that second location. Personally, I've already installed a dual-USB port, but, instead of attempting what I just described (which might have been easier than what I did), I ran the wiring through the frame, above the engine, with the + connected to my Rowe AmpLink, and the - connected to my ground terminal block. On a separate note, for those not familiar with the Rowe AmpLink, it's a Bluetooth version of their PDM60. For those not familiar with either of these, it's, essentially, a circuit breaker for motorcycles, with 6 circuits, providing a total combined output of 60A (no one circuit can be more than 20A). With the PDM60, or AmpLink, you no longer need fuses for your connected accessories...and, if any such accessories also use relays, you no longer need those. While it is a considerably more expensive way to go ($200 for the PDM60, $250 for the AmpLink), as fuses are relatively cheap, it cleans up the "spiderweb" of wires that would normally be connected to your battery...and also saves your shop mechanic from scratching his/her head for an hour trying to figure out what all your wires are.

When I installed mine, the only problem I ran into was the lower bolt on the left side, near the shift lever. It was a serous PITA, purely because the bolt goes entirely through the frame, needs a wrench for reach side, and (realistically) requires two people. I had to take my bike into the shop for something unrelated, and asked if they'd loosen the bolt for me, which they did (no extra charge). Once they'd loosened it, getting it off the rest of the way, and getting it back on, was fairly simple. I started removing it from one side with a rubber mallet, and pulled it out from the other side using a vice-grip. Side note: The GIVI Engine Guard Bars make an excellent mounting point for the compressor of a Denali SoundBomb Dual-Tone Air Horn, highway pegs, & running/fog lights. If anyone is looking for a great highway peg mount, I HIGHLY recommend the Joker Machine 1.25" Highway Bar Footpeg Mount (available from Revzilla, https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/joker-machine-125-highway-bar-footpeg-mount?kclid=b7938ee1-d968-456f-936d-e78e532d1099&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2f7bBRDVARIsAAwYBBudjJkLHbTM7-2IANfcT42WDmKC4dWnRQnanxR8MO9keIcu3o58PQAaAhMcEALw_wcB), along with your choice of footpegs. Joker Machine makes several footpegs, but any HD-mount footage should work. For mounting, use a couple of short pieces of 1.25" OD, 1" ID tubing (this recommendationcame directly from Joker Machine).

I have the Puig Touring Windscreen installed, using the includes handguard brackets (they move the second piece of the handguard figure out by approx 1.25"), as well as the SW-MOTECH Barback Risers. I've had no problems, whatsoever. However, when it came to installing the barback risers, I discovered a "problem" (which had nothing to do with the windscreen, or (technically) the risers) - the brake & clutch cable lengths don't allow for excessive movement of the bars. Thankfully, the "resolution" was quite simple. When installing the SW-MOTECH Barback Risers, if the OEM risers remain in the 'stock' position, it moves the bar back too far, resulting in the brake & clutch lines begging stretched too far. A lot of people don't realize that the OEM risers have 2 positions: back, & forward. The "stock" position, as placed by most dealerships, is in the 'back' position. However, if you remove the bar, loosen the bolts holding the OEM risers, rotate the risers 180°, place the bar back into the OEM risers, and then tighten the riser bolts, this will allow the barback risers to be installed without stretching the brake & clutch lines.

TwoWheelObsession did a great (almost 19 minute) video review, covering installation, as well as some daytime (at the 16:28 mark) & nighttime (at the 17:11 mark) video examples, front & rear. He also mentions the looseness of the bolt holding the camera to the mount, and mentions the same lock-washer solution. Here's the link to his video review: While my car already has a 2-channel dashcam system (Thinkware F770 (front) & F770R (rear)), I've been looking for a front/rear dashcam system for the bike. Of the various models I've read reviews for, and watched videos about, the HaloCam M1 does appear to be one of the best options (I can't honestly say "the best", as I'm certain I don't know ALL available models/options). I was waiting for Sena to release the 10C Pro (will be MUCH better than the also-not-yet-released 10C Evo), but (a) I'm tired of waiting, & (b) it's really just another "action cam", and not a true dashcam. Looks like the HaloCam M1 will be my 'winner', as well.

I agree with quadnorth's "suggestion" of a tether. I use a Kryptonite Disc Lock, which came with a bright orange one, on the front, with the other end of the tether on the front brake lever. As for the rest, not to worry, as I have that covered (when parked at home), using a Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain Disc Lock w/ 3.5ft chain. I'm even considering picking up the 5ft version. According to their claim (and their warranty), you can just lock it up, and fahgettaboudit.

Today was "install electrical accessories day", although, technically, not everything installed related directly to being 'electrical'. With the exception of the ground block (from Twisted Throttle), everything came from Revzilla. Kicking off the installations was a RAM Mounts Torque Bar Mount (more on this, below), mounted on my GIVI S900A SmartBar, plus a pair of R&G Racing Bar End Sliders. Next up was a ground block (installed under the pillion seat, just in front of the rear brake light), which has 8 12V O-Ring attachment points. After the ground block came a Dual-USB port (one 2.1 Amp + one 1 Amp), installed where Yamaha invented a second 12V "cigarette" power adapter. Moving to the other side of the bike, a harness for a Garmin Zūmo 595LM (mounted onto the RAM Torque Bar Mount) was installed on the left side of the GIVI SmartBar (a GIVI S920L SmartClip is installed on the right side, leaving more than enough room for two 3-way switches for auxiliary lighting, which will be installed in the coming months). Finally, to "control" the power of all current/future accessories (except for theMCCruise Cruise Control, due to its 30 Amp fuse), I installed a Rowe Electronics PDM60, which is "hidden" under the pillion seat lock mechanism. For those not familiar with the PDM60, it stand for "Power Distribution Module, w/ 60 Amp maximum current capacity", and can have a maximum of 6 accessories attached to it. Programming the PDM60 is done via a proprietary USB cable (you MUST disconnect PDM60 from battery whenever programming). Think of it as a circuit breaker for motorcycles...although it can also be used with ATVs, cars, trucks, etc. The ground wire for the PDM60 was connected to the ground block, leaving enough remaining ground block connections for 7 accessories (when I have additional time, I'll reroute the cruise control's ground wire, which leaves 6 remaining ground points, equal to the 6 connections on the PDM60). For those who like the idea of a motorcycle "circuit breaker", but don't like the idea of having to disconnect it from the battery ever time you add/remove an accessory (because you have to reprogram the unit EVERY time you add/remove accessories), Rowe Electronics just released a second version, AmpLink PDM, which uses an app to program the unit via Bluetooth 4.1, and for which (from what I understand) you don't need to disconnect it from the battery. There are a few other differences, but, to me, the $50 difference ($200 for PDM60 vs $250 for AmpLink PDM) wasn't worth it. Maybe, in the coming years, with further advancements in micro-electronics, bikes will start being released with PDMs installed by the manufacturers, replacing the plethora of fuses, as this would not only save money over the bike's lifespan, but, in working together with the ECU, and other core electronics, the display could, potentially, display info of where electrical problems are occurring. This would not remove companies, such as Rowe Electronics, from the equation, as aftermarket PDMs would still be needed for aftermarket accessories. As for my "day", I spent so much time working (and washing, once finished) on the bike (as well as taking care of a few personal matters, including a ticket for doing in the carpool lane with only me in that limousine...don't ask...lol), that I didn't have time to hit the road. Oh, well...maybe next Sunday.

I can echo peporter on the Soundbomb. My riding buddies heard it on the open road and have threatened bodily harm if I ever use it in a tunnel. Amazing to get that much sound from a bike horn. Ride Safe The "tunnel threat" probably isn't just because of the volume, but alsi because of the slightly contrasting tones. When my neighbor heard mine, he said it reminded him of a 1960s Cadillac.

Did you check into the possibility of using Gorilla Glue? If so, why was this option "not acceptable"?

And, to think I thought my insurance (SF Bay Area, California) was high. With my previous bike (2006 Suzuki SV650S), and full coverage ($100K/300K, deductible waiver, medical, towing, etc), I was paying slightly less than $400/yr, which jumped to a lol over $600/yr with the FJ. Sorry to hear that.

Can't say anything about the Road 5s (yet...tho they're what I'm planning when it's time to replace the stock tires)...on past bikes, I've run the Angel GTs, and lived them. However, in regards to the GIVI Engine Guard Bars, you're gonna love them. One of the most solid & beefiest bars I've used...I even mounted the compressor for my Denali SoundBomb air horn to them.

It's funny you should ask that, as I was just about to post an update related to this very subject, and happened to come across your post. For anyone considering barback risers, I discovered something that you NEED to know. It doesn't matter which brand you get...that's more of a personal preference...the barback risers are outstanding. On that note.......... Unfortunately, installing the bar back risers with the OEM risers in the "default" (ie. bars closer to the river) introduced the very cable-stretching problem surmised by carlf. There wasn't any problem noticed when the bars were locked (full left), and when centered, the broken was minimal enough that I didn't think it would matter. It wasn't until moving the bike back to its "storage" location that, when the bats were full right, I realized the throttle cables were stretched tight, and the front brake line was fairly right. While rotating the bar into a slightly more upright position removed the tension on the brake line, it still wasn't enough for the throttle cables. The "solution", ingeniously-enough, was extremely simple. Before installing any barback risers, first rotate the OEM riser 180° (bars further from rider). That 1cc difference (5mm forward vs 5mm back) made all the difference. After removing the bars from the OEM risers, loosen the nuts (underside of top triple tree) holding the OEM risers, rotate both risers 180°, temporarily bold the bars back into place, then tighten the riser nuts (these last two steps are just to make certain the OEM risers are perfectly straight). Once you've tightened the OEM riser nuts, you can remove the bar, and proceed to install the barback risers. Once the barback risers are installed the bar in position, and the barback riser's top clamp & boots in place, do NOT tighten the bolts. After centering the bar, rotate the bar back enough to provide the best upright riding position...but, at the same time, make sure it's rotated forward enough to leave slack on the throttle cables & front brake line, THEN tighten the bolts.

I was just doing some research, and your best choices might be the following. For the front tire, as many have pointed out, the Michelin Road 5 should be the optimal pick. Heck...I'm even willing to forgo the Angel GT in the front, just to see how well the Road 5 does. As for the rear tire, going with either the Michelin Road 5 or Pirelli Angel GT, you can't go wrong. Personally, as much as I like having the same tire front & rear, if you happen to ride in wet conditions, the Angel GT might prove better at moving rear-tire water. I'm just curious, but, does anyone have first-hand experience with BOTH tires (rear wheel only)?

I can't say how the Pirelli Angel GTs will work on the FJ-09, but I can tell you that I had them on my last bike (2006 Suzuki SV650S), and they were absolutely fantastic. The slight additional cost over the Angel STs was worth it, as I did a lot of freeway commuting, thus the wear along the center was considerably greater than the side wear. Chances are, when it comes time to replace the tires on my FJ-09, the Angel GT will be my first consideration.

Forgot to take photos...heck, who am I kidding, I rarely take photos...but today, I installed a collection of SW-MOTECH "upgrades. First, the very-simple-to-install Sidestand Foot Enlarger. Next, a 1-1/8" Barback Offset Handlebar Risers. And, last, but not least, a skid plate. My only "problem" is that I think I still need to slightly adjust the bars, as the angle (after adjusting it twice) still isn't quite right. I'm sure I'll get it right next time - as they say, "Third time's a charm."

Checked my OEM risers, and they were in the correct position. So, installation of the SW-MOTECH Barback Risers commenced...and now I am finally in an upright riding position.

Unlike those who have replied to this thread, my "problem" is that the bars are too far forward for me. Now that I know the risers can be rotated 1809 degrees, when I get home from work, I'll check to see if the dealer installed them backwards (ie. "already rotated"). Assuming they're installed in the stock position, then I'll stick with my original plan, which is to install "barback" risers, which will move the bar 1" closer to me, as well as raise them an additional 1" up. Even if the dealer did install the OEM riser "backwards", after returning them to the stock position, I will still, in all likelihood, install the barback risers, as I do not want a "sportier" riding position. That's part of the reason I sold my 2006 Suzuki SV650S, and replaced it with the 2017 Yamaha FJ-09 (at 50 years of age, I don't need to ride "hunched over"...besides, can't ride extended distances in such position).

What I meant was - 'what is the hose attached to?' This is an entirely new device to me (I've previously fitted many a Stebel MAGNUM horn as a replacement for the squeaky-toy OE item) but would like to know how the Denali works. What powers the compressor? What does it look like? Where is it installed on the bike? Please...!Because the compressor requires additional power, beyond that needed by the OEM horn (as well as the Stebel MAGNUM, which is, essentially, an OEM-replacement part), you need to use a harness. There are two available - a DIY version, and the considerably easier "plug-n-play" version. Additionally, some bikes, such as various BMW models, require an adapter, as they don't use standard connectors. As I said before, the hose is simply attached between the compressor & horn...but there's no power between these two horn components. This is ONLY for the "Split" version of the Denali SoundBomb, as Denali also sells a non-split version, which had the horn & compressor together, as a "single" piece. If your have a LOT of available room to install (such as on a Harley), this might work for you...otherwise, stick with the Split. As for the power, it's supplied via the harness, which has a relay connector at one end, and 4 lines (two long & 2 short) coming out of it. The short lines connect to the battery (one positive (red), and one negative (black)). As for the two long lines, one has two male horn connectors at the other end, while the other end has two female connectors. How you run the wiring through the bike is your choice, but connecting everything is as simple as anything gets - the OEM connectors (male) plug into the two female connectors on the harness, and the two female connectors on the harness plug into the two (male) tabs on the bottom of the Denali compressor. Once everything is wired up, plug in the 4-prong relay. The last two steps are even easier...first, put the bike back together, then go treat the new horn outside the window of the least-liked neighbor at 2am. While some dealers (falsely) claim that the Stebel MAGNUM produces 139dab, tests done by others show an actual average of 85-90dB. The Denali SoundBomb, on the other hand, consistently tests around the claimed 120dB, if not higher. My neighbor said it reminds him of the air horns in 1950s Cadillacs...plus, he likes it so much, he's ordering one to go on his KLR650.

Not entirely sure what you mean by "what is the hose attached to". Obviously, one end attaches to the horn, and the other end attaches to the compressor. The hose is how the air gets from the compressor, to the horn. As for the vendor, I ordered mine from Revzilla, but you can also order directly from the distributor (Twisted Throttle). Not to "put down" Twisted Throttle (as I have absolutely no reason to), but, personally, I prefer Revzilla, if for no other reason than I've ordered from them for years, and they've always provided excellent customer service. That being said, I did also recently order from Twisted Throttle, which also provided excellent CS. Whether you order from Twisted Throttle, Revzilla, or anyone else (including your local dealer), you'll still get the same great product. it's so great, that my next door neighbor, who has a KLR 650, wants one for his bike.

Finally received, and installed, my Denali SoundBomb Split. While I installed the horn in a manner similar to how washufiddyfo installed his (after he moved it), although I installed the compressor in a less "problematic" way. For the horn, I was originally going to bolt the horn directly to the bracket attached to the lower triple-clamp, exactly as washufiddyfo initially did...but, I (as did he) noticed that the lowest part of the horn was lower than I'd expected, and, not wanting to damage it, I decided to play around with a few different options. In the end, here's what I came up with. As seen in the first three photos, the OEM horn is bolted to a bracket (technically, two identical pieces), which, in turn, is bolted to a second bracket, which is bolted to the lower triple-clamp. I removed the OEM horn, removed the 2-piece bracket, then bolted the 2-piece bracket together at both ends, and bent it/them into an L-bracket. I then bolted the L-bracket, upside-down (as seen in the third photo), back to the bracket attached to the lower triple-clamp. After that, I attached the hose (more on that in a second) to the horn, and finally bolted the horn to the upside-down L-bracket, with the horn facing down, and the hose pointed to the left side of the bike. I routed the hose up through the faring, over the top of the radiator, down the back side of the radiator (away from the fan), under the Engine Guard bolt (indicated by the red circle in photo 4), and into the compressor. Regarding the air hose, since I was originally going to installed the compressor, I realized that the length of hose included in the kit would be way too short. On top of that, the material it's made of isn't exactly welcomed by the high temperatures, and, since I was planning on running the hose right through the engine area, the hose Denali includes would NOT work. So...I went on the hunt for some high-temp, high-pressure, hose. What I came up with was found at AutoZone - 1/4" ID Fuel Injection hose, with a SAE J30R9 rating (working pressure 100psi, burst pressure 900psi, working max temp 275F, intermittent max temp 302F). The OD is a bit larger than the included hose (the wall thickness is twice as thick), but easily fits inside the horn. Unfortunately, even though the ID was the same as the included hose, it doesn't stretch as easily...so, out came the can of air freshener. A "trick" I learned when installing aftermarket grips years ago (which I've since used with every pair of replacement grips), is that air freshener spray works just as good, if not better than "soapy water", plus it dries (actually, evaporates) a lot quicker. A few "quick bursts", and the hose slid on somewhat-easily enough. Speaking of the compressor, as you can see in photos 4 & 5, I attached the compressor, using two cable zip ties, to the middle bar on my Givi Engine Guard Bars. Next, I attached the wiring harness so that it's connected directly to the battery, to the original horn connectors inside the fairing (I pulled the connectors up, so that they wouldn't "hang"), and to the compressor via the same route as the air hose. The line running to the OEM horn connectors runs down the right side (right next to the MCCruise cruise control harness), while the line running to the compressor runs down the left side, both inside the frame & under the gas tank. Lastly, I held the air hose & wiring harness in place using more cable zip ties. After putting the bike back together, I gave the new horn a few "test bursts"...and I am VERRRRRRY pleased to state that the Denali SoundBomb is CONSIDERABLY louder...and more obnoxious-sounding...than the roadrunner-sounding "beep-beep" OEM horn. My only disappointment...and it's a minor one...is that I won't get to see the face of the person in front of me each time I blast it.

Technically, did this yesterday, but, since it's barely 7am PST, I'm guessing it "still counts". Installed SW-MOTECH mirror extenders, and a Denali SoundBomb Dual-Tone Split Air Horn. The mirror extenders were super-simple...the air horn, on the other hand, proved slightly "problematic". I had, initially, intended mounting the compressor under the seat (as several others had done), and the horn to the stock bracket. To make a long story short (the full story, along with a video, should be uploaded to the "air horn" thread before the end of the weekend), while the horn did get mounted in the stock location, instead of mounting it to the bracket that the stock horn was mounted to, I removed the bracket, rotated the horn 90° (so that the horn it's facing downward, instead of to the left side of the bike), and mounted it to the piece attached to the lower triple-clamp. As for the compressor, I decided to mount it to the inside of my Givi Engine Guard Bars, thus shortening the needed tube length. Having briefly tested the new horn, I can attest (as, I'm certain, some of my neighbors could grudgingly do) that it is QUITE LOUD. If anyone else has been contemplating replacing the OEM "roadrunner sounding beep-beep" horn with an air horn, I can HIGHLY recommend the Denali SoundBomb (it's your choice whether to get the "split" version, or the single piece version, but I'd probably suggest ignoring the SoundBomb Mini). Just be certain to get the plug-and-play wiring harness, as it drastically improves the installation process.

Started off by installing a pair of Grip Puppies, to help further reduce vibration (replaced the OEM grips months ago, with gel grips, which partially reduced vibration). Next, I installed Sato Racing Rear Swing Arm Spools &Front Axle Sliders. After that, I installed the very-long-awated-for Yamaha GYTR Quick-Shift Shifter Kit. And, finally...I took her out for a nice 3-hour ride, thoroughly testing the quick-shift, as well as the MCCruise cruise control I installed last week. Now, I'm just waiting for the Denali Soundbomb Split Dual-Tone Air Horn, and mirror extenders/risers to arrive. What will I be installing after that? Good question...and I don't have an answer...yet.

Ordered mine today, from Revzilla...got the Denali Split & the Plug-n-Play harness (plus a pair of SW-MOTECH Mirror Wideners). Once everything arrives, I'll see how I can piece it together. Not sure if I'll get/need a bracket, but I think the longer hose & clips might be a smart idea, as I'll probably also install the pump under the seat. Will update (with photos) once installed & tested.

I realize that the last posting to this thread was 17 months ago, but I realized that there's some extremely important information missing, especially after viewing the photos 2and3cylinders posted. Before anyone considers installing a second 12v outlet, or ANY additional electrical accessories, you first NEED to know the total combined wattage of EVERYTHING currently running on the bike - this not only means additional accessories you might have installed, such as running/fog lights, multi-color LED lighting, air horn, etc, but also the bike's standard electrical equipment, such as the headlight, taillight, etc. Once you know this, you need to know the electrical charging output of your bike. In the case of the FJ-09, according to Yamaha Motorsports USA, this would be 415W @ 5000rpm (they were unable to provide the idle information). The electrical power draw, under standard operation is probably in the 200-300W range (possibly lower, as Yamaha wasn't able to provide a complete breakdown when I called). Anyway, based on this, it's estimated (again, based on a 200-300W draw) that you'd have approximately 115-215W MAXIMUM available for user-installed accessories. However, you still need to consider the charging output at idle, which could be as low as half the output under normal operation. Because of this, you could find yourself having a problem if you install too many accessories. If you plan on installing several accessories, I HIGHLY suggest finding out the power draw of everything BEFORE purchasing. Additionally, so as to not have a "spaghetti factory" under your seat, it would be extremely advisable to purchase/install a separate fuse block (most are capable of having up to 5 or 6 accessories wired in), to which your accessories would be wired to the fuse block, instead of directly to the battery. This will not only keep the wiring "clean", but can also help in preventing you from overloading your bike's electrical system.