Clegg78

There is also DIY Elastomer isolators like here: Ram Mount vibration isolator / damper by crooksUSA - Thingiverse I made this primarily for my RAM GPS mount; When attached to my... I do a lot of 3D printing and may give this setup a shot

Also This could be a good option. Wire coil vibration isolation like this has been used in a lot of industries to take out vibrations. Looks like this could be adapted to a RAM mount system pretty easily. Buzz-Kill Vibration Isolator A must-have for thumpers. Single-cylinder bikes like to vibrate. And that...

that is interesting, I did some further reading and am seeing people reporting the same. I am curious how much of a vibration difference there is being mounted to the chassis/body vs. the bars especially with a X-Grip heavy ram mount like the Qi one I have... I know the Quad locks have almost no give or vibration isolation. The engine vibrations (which are high frequency and power and are the more likely causes of the OIS failure than road vibrations) are everywhere on the bike, so I am unsure how alternative mountings will change that to any extent. Mounting to the windshield mount/adjustment like some have seem like it would be even worse. I am looking at trying some other options as I have an 11 Pro and I found a thread here on them dying from bikes: https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/594197/Will+shaking+damage+the+image+stabilization

They are better than I expected. Every tire I've had on my past bikes have been Pilot Road 2,3,4,5s, so I was tentative on these... but I've thrown the bike around pretty hard on even cool ~50F morning roads and haven't had any issues. For me its more getting used to the bike brakes/throttle with the tires. My past bikes had no electronics so I learned to ride pretty carefully and keep away from the "edge" of grip on the tires, and so far I am impressed (for OEM tires). I have seen TCS kick in, and ABS kick in before I was expecting a few times, but not anything I was shocked at. I will be going back to Road 5's when these wear out or get damaged or by the fall in the rainy cold weather riding. I've been known to ride a lot in the mountains here in the 30 -40F raining weather often in the fall... and I know the Road series has kept me safe so I am going to go back to them.

That is true if you are using the camera while riding, otherwise the OIS in most phones is secured when it isn't being used. Most modern OIS implementations are pretty resilient these days as well.

I am using one of the new Ran Touch-Charge X Grip holders. Its a waterproof Qi wireless charger. Works awesome! (and i happen o have one for sale in the For Sale section since I accidentally got 2. )

The Evotech listed above is a real high quality part. I am also still looking for a fender extension but from what I heard it doesn't really fix much on the front or the back fender.

I have the Evotech and I am super happy with the fit/finish/install. Goes in and is solid. Unlike a lot of the knockoffs or even the OEM guard that attaches with zip ties.

A light touch is always better on a motorcycle even more on gravel/dirt!

I just put these on mine and only have done a small ride on them so far. I like em! I like the protection and also some options it gives for aux lights, small foot rests, and even potentially some small tool storage/water/tool storage area between the bars and the engine/frame if needed. I do a lot of custom fab and dig some of the possibilities these bring! I will say the lack of torque specs and the failure to mention the long rear bolt is amusing I saw it posted here the torque spec for the "motor mounts" are 45NM which is right (for all 5, the 4 upper bolts and the long rear mount), The lower footpeg mount on the right side of the bike is 55NM though. As I think mentioned here or somewhere else, I did put the long rear bolt back in on the other side so if I need to remove the left hand guard, I can do it without needing to remove the entire bolt in the future. Another tip, is to take a small ruler, measure each bolt, against the instructions and arrange the spacers/bolts properly so you know which is which. Since some are only 5-10mm different, if you use the wrong bolt you could damage something.

Dang that top link there is the right connector, but he doesnt ship to the US... the hunt continues!

I like this topic. I've done hundreds of miles on gravel/light/hard dirt roads on my Sprint ST in the past (which had upgraded/tuned suspension and valving) with PR 4 and PR5 tires. Same size tires/rims as the Tracer, but with zero rider electronics, no ABS, no TSC, etc... The few times I've taken the tracer on gravel/dirt its felt a bit more nervous and unsure than the Sprint did, I am curious if there is any changes to the suspension settings you guys do? Since the fork is fully adjustable, and the rear shock has some tweaks... I was curious if anyone had any go-to adjustments they do for rides they know will be on some gravel? I am planning to take it into a shop to get the suspension tuned properly for sag/comp/rebound and such, but figure'd Id ask

Yeah I could see that. Really even for this bike with the big open area back there... there wasnt a whole lot of room!

I was planning to design/print an entire replacement Pillion seat/cowl that will have tool space/mounts. I designed the frame for it to connect onto the bike easily... but the seat surface/geometry is what was going to take a while (and the fact its slightly larger than my build volume). So I am starting to look at just cutting out the base, removing some of the foam, and bolting/inserting a substructure/frame to hold tools in it while not affecting the OE looks. When I get some time I'll share some ideas.

Hey everyone, I went and designed and printed my own mounts for my Tracer 900 GT to mount an Innovv K2 dash cam setup, Powerlet install, and a few other odds and ends. I posted about it here: 3D Printed Dashcam mount and Motorcycle parts – Interwebs of Joe So last fall I sold my trusty 2005 Triumph Sprint ST motorcycle... I am going to start a web store to potentially sell some of these parts and such I designed in the coming month or so. The post above is just showing the parts, and the design/install of all the mods. I figured it would be interesting for the folks here.

So I talked to another dealer today and they told me on the GT the pegs come installed already. So someone at Yamaha phucked up. the bracket that gives extra support to the frame mounts and spans between both sides was misaligned. So when the Yamaha guy with an impact gun ran in the bolts the bolts stripped all but a few threads against the support brace and really was only holding on the frame via friction it seems. I found out this issue when I put weight on the passenger peg and it let go!... I'll post pics of the screws but they were really bad. Just to be safe I replaced both sides and realigned that support bracket. A pic of the bracket as it looked when the passenger peg fell off is here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtuhT174YsbYlcoHs6wqByu9IGiuRw?e=NSrK69

Thanks guys! I put it right around there as a guess and figure I would up it if the news came back that it needed more. And I did have to run a tap through to clear the first couple bad threads. Not sure if the passenger pegs are dealer installed, but it was a messed up install none the less.

Seems the service manual doesn't address the footrest mount torque, where it connects to the chassis. Its a long story but Yamaha phucked up on my bike and stripped out the bolts for one side and I found out when I put weight on it... So i have new bolts but now I need to know how much torque needs to be applied. Anyone know?

So I noticed after I changed the oil to Motul 7100 (10w40) after the initial 600 miles on the bike, the QS 1-2 shift is much much better... almost as seamless as the rest of the gears. Yeah the QS use when passing people.

I agree on the linked brakes, I was actually kind of shocked to see the bike has independent front/rear ABS and systems.

Thats great insight. Coming from some old school STs myself (I've ridden Ducati ST, VFR800, and Sprint ST and Sprint GTs in the past) and they all are way heavy toward the sport of sport touring to the point they are really just sport bikes with bags (except for the sprint GT I guess). They all seem so heavy and cumbersome in their handling and very very top heavy. For me even the stock suspension setup on the Tracer GT was a revelation. But I did go through the effort to setup Sag and the fork compression/rebound settings a bit. I find myself just so excited to have a platform that isnt completely compromised from the beginning

That is exactly what I needed to know! Thanks!

So I just went through this exercise (the Tracer 900 vs the GT at least) since I was upgrading from an old Sprint ST I had. I also looked at some used FJ09 (2015's or so). The 2019 Tracer 900 was the odd bike out in the testing... More expensive than the FJ09 with minimal changes (I think the suspension is a big stronger on the 2019 than the 2015 was) . The GT is a different league. Better suspension by a mile, cruise control, bags (small, but very functional), seemed to have better ergonomics I felt. The tracer 900 is just an iteration (minor at best) from the earlier FJ, for 10K+$. Where the GT is a pretty specific and impressive upgrade. Worth the extra money without question - cruise control to me is worth 1K$ on its own. Only gotcha is GT's are becoming hard to find in a lot of places around the country.

I am just about to do the initial oil change at 600mi and am using Wix 51358XP Oil Filters. I do most of my own maintenance on bikes and cars and over years of research and doing oil testing with Blackstone I've determined that the Wix filters are some of the best. So keeping with what I know Going to change the oil in a few minutes actually. (putting Motul 7100 in)

Hey there, I searched this topic on the forum but I am not sure if there is any difference in how the older FJ's and such needed to be handled compared to the 2018/19 bikes with ABS/TCS. I think I read that the speedo for the bike reads off the front ABS disc now and not off the driveline, which means you should be able to tweak the gearing and not need any kind of "speedo healer" or anything. That's my main question - can I tweak the gearing and avoid having to get the speedo reading tweaked. I do like the stock gearing but it could move up 1T or so (or up one in the front and down one in the rear) to make it a bit more comfortable for higher speeds and use more of the middle gears (4th and 5th seem like kind of useless at the moment).