Clegg78

Too many good comments to quote them all. But yea this is a great teaching moment! And even a small non mistake but bad foresight can cost a lot. Thanks for all the input! I had a motorcycle advance handling course instructor a long time ago say “if you get hit by a car, in most cases the question you should be asking is why you let that happen” “Don’t be a target, and don’t put yourself into positions to be a target” “everyone is out to kill you, ride like that” (which can be paralyzing and hyperbolic if you don’t know how to process that. Every time I see a semi I think “ohh an apex predator” ) The challenge is understanding when you are making yourself a target! Live (hopefully) and Learn!

More post mortem: This is the first view of the white car I had, as you can see the Outback was late getting into the turn lane at the last moment. I was already on the centerline He really accelerated into the intersection fast, faster than normal, which I think is what threw me off on the timing. It does look like he tapped the brakes milliseconds before this frame, you can see the chassis pitch forward slightly. But he never stops rolling. Note the nice pic of the license plate

One other perk of good dash cams, is even if he did hit, I have his full license plate number before I got into the intersection

I do this generally, especially in-town. I think in this case the car was delayed going into the turn lane, and kept me blocked from the white SUV pretty late. Even with me already being close to the centerline of the road and distanced behind the turning black car. But that is a great suggestion overall! We always need to keep visible!

Yeah... the total of 4 seconds the entire event transpired from the moment he started rolling to when I was past, I was not about to waste time looking for the horn, and just move myself out of the way. The horn placement on this bike is a PITA to hit anyway, especially if you are on the bars bracing for an evasive maneuver. Not saying it wouldn't have helped, just was at the bottom of my list of things to do in those seconds. I've looked at the video a lot... and really from the moment I saw him (since I was also behind a car and couldn't see him there until the car moved to the turn lane), and saw him start to move, to the point I reacted was under 1 second, and I was in the opposing lane by 2 seconds, and past him and back moving into the normal lane by 5 seconds. If there was oncoming traffic, other steps would have been taken.

yeah, I've noted my mistakes of not immediately going ALL the way over to the left assuming he would never see me... I only went half way over assuming he'd see me when I was kind of in front of him. Every event like this is a (hopefully) painless and free learning experience. I was following a car going into that intersection (a bit back... not tailgating at all), and I am assuming the guy just saw the black car turning and didn't see me coming behind (and then just had his eyes closed the rest of the turn??) I had an old guy at a campsite ask me 10 years ago when I had been riding for only a few years "So you think you are a good rider? you know what you are doing?" My reply then and still today "Nope, I am always learning. I make mistakes (mostly minor, missed shift, forget to go down to 1st at a stop light, etc...) every time I ride and try to learn from them... I will never be done learning on the bike until I stop riding"

I did almost get hit yesterday in NW Colorado though. This dude in a white SUV never saw me... in blaze yellow, on a sunny day, and just kept pulling into the road. I pitched over and kept moving over to the left to give him room, and he kept coming. I didn't realize how close it ended up being until I saw the rear camera image. In the video, he barely slows down when I am in front of him, and just continues on his way. I was going too fast (it was a 55Mph area) to brake and stop, so I just kept on it and with no traffic coming at me, I could just roll as far to the left as needed. I saw it all coming so it wasn't a panic situation, but I am mystified that he never stopped.

I didn't wrench on anything, but that is the good news. Today I wrapped up my 1800mi trip to Yellowstone for a few days. Zero issues on the ride, and yesterday was the 1yr anniversary of me punching a hole in the oil pan in New Mexico last year. This rounded out 4300mi of multi day trips this summer ( another 1000 or more were done on just commuting and putzing around the front range this summer). The map below is the total summer running. Here is the ground the bike covered in 2021 (on multi day trips) The bike just went over 9000mi today as well. Most mornings were below freezing when I started, and in the 80s by the time i was back at the hotel this trip. The T32 tires worked great in the cold weather, and so did the bike. Zero issues turning it over in the morning in 21F temps. (I have an Antigravity Lithium battery which I had concerns about in cold weather, not any more). Only issue I noticed in those temps was the braking was sluggish. I am flushing the lines with DOT5.1 or DOT 4 LV tomorrow, as that should fix the cold weather breaking feel (WAY thinner viscosity index).

Ohh interesting, I am riding up to Western MT, Idaho, and WY next week

This is a key reason I carry a 12v pump (Dynaplug micro, or Aerostitch pumps). Much easier than dealing with a dozen CO2 cartridges that are one time use.

Also, after seeing AAA and AMA roadside assistance pretty much tell me to phuck off last year this time because I was 60 miles from a major city... I am not putting much weight in those. I carry a Garmin Inreach and have a communication plan, and route with some friends/spouse if I need to be picked up in the middle of nowhere.

I am packing and getting ready for another 2000mi trip (Which would be ~ 5000mi of travels this summer) up to Yellowstone. And I am getting my tools back together. I am using the same principle as I do with firstaid kits (I teach backpacking and wilderness first aid) - Bring what you know how to use. I know from working on the bike what is reasonable to work on and what would be terminal. So I simply have: (Note - I ride solo almost all the time... I am not a fan of group rides at all) Under Seat tool roll bag/Storage (kept on the bike all the time): Small Gerber multipliers Zipties (various sizes) Fuses (sized for all the fuses used on the bike and accessories) 8mm box wrench (useful for brake bleed, and some of the controls on the bars to adjust) Yamaha stock tools - Screw Driver, 14/16mm box wrench, 4 or 5mm hex (what ever is used to remove the fairing sides) Stick style tire pressure gauge JK3D.us Fork adjustment tool to tweak comp/rebound/preload (shameless plug ) Small Tool Bag (former Garmin GPS bag, works great!) - brought on long trips Large Gerber multipliers with interchangeable needle Nose and Blunt pliers nose. 17mm box wrench (for the Givi crash bar bolt) Multi Hex fold up set (up to 8mm hex) 10mm box wrench (for some other control adjustments and some other fittings on the bike) 3M VHB Tape roll (small) Velcro Wire Wraps Tire Plug kit TPMS Batteries, and tools Lighter, and double wall shrink tube Wire Splices/taps Gorilla Tape Roll Other random things like small tubes of fast curing JBWeld. Dynaplug 12V micro inflator (brought on longer trips). Pretty much with that I am confident I could handle or at least attempt to fix just about anything on the bike that would be needed that wasn't already terminal (ie: breaking the oil pan, cracking a wheel, punctured radiator, alternator failure, etc... )

I use the same T-valves, and roughly the same TPMS. I love it. Actually one of the features of a number of the small TPMS readouts is it shows temperature. Its been interesting seeing the difference front/rear on hot days. Rear TPMS has read 140F before on hot asphalt riding (in 112F weather that is).

I've been looking but it doesn't seem to be a thing ... in the past on Triumph and such you can use TuneECU, for Volkswagons its VagCom, for Fords its ForScan, etc... But I am not seeing anything for almost any of the Asian bikes. Tasks like balancing TBs, monitoring all the engine/vehicle sensors, running ABS Purge/Bleed functions (this is one I really want when I flush the brake system), etc... Is there any non dealer tool to accomplish this on the Yamaha bikes?

I've also been on the hunt for the Blurple color code/paint code... I am kind of amazed its not easy to find given how many bikes Yamaha has had with that wheel color!

STX46 I believe the specific number is YA537, It mounts to the footpeg area similar to where the stock Tracer 900 GT adjuster mounts to. Here is a pic:

These motors have a ton of valve noise and cam noise before the heads get the full oil flow. This is one of the key reasons to never start and rev a modern motorcycle engine! So I’d say it’s normal.

I believe it will, but the spring rate is a bit higher than the 2017 I think. I dont know for sure.

Hey there, I am selling my 2019 Tracer 900GT Rear Shock w/ preload adjuster. Its just sitting in a box under my workbench after upgrading to an Ohlins shock, and I figure I'd see if anyone who has a non preload adjustable shock or a burned out OE shock wants one with a lot more life left on it. This shock only has 3500 miles on it. I'd sell it for $150 + shipping (Shipping will be based actual price due to the size and weight of the box and I will provide multiple carrier options) - I am located in Denver for local pickups also. I am not entirely sure what the going price is for used OE suspension. I was going to keep it to swap in if I have the Ohlins rebuilt or something, but I actually want the space under my workbench back I will grab a pic of the shock later, but it looks like a pristine OE shock with the preload adjuster.

As everyone has mentioned - yes Ohlins rear shocks are great! But so are Ktech, Nitron, Wilbers, etc... in fact Ktech and others can adjust length of the sock slightly, you cant do that on the Ohlins. With that said, use what your local suspension guy prefers (if you trust him, which you should). I went full Ohlins front (NIX30) and back with remote reservoir and preload based on recommendations from my guy. I am crazy happy with the results, but as mentioned - Ohlins are not magical, all upgraded suspension is magical over stock

I couldnt even see the slots you made in the top corners! I was looking for them but just kinda see them now out barely. Have other pics? the side to side buffeting on the highway at high speed is one of the things I am struggling with

So replying to this post in also reply to your last one. So I looked at the multistrada windshield in detail, its not just a cut, its a scoop. Its angled on the front and back to direct air up, the front profile is made to shoot air in a certain direction, not just a slot. With a small bit of 3D printing you could essentially make a scoop and direct the air front and back, but it would be more visible than just a cut in the screen. Also know that the entire wind screen needs to work with this. I have the same screen you do and have felt around for the various wind/turbulence around it as I ride, and in general, I am not sure a small cut is going to do much with any scoop. Also there is a large air gap at the bottom that does let air come up from the underside to fill a lot of the turbulence causing vacuum there already. It would be fun to throw accurate front end models of the Tracer with various screens in CFD modeling to see the actual flow properties. Sadly, I am all out big computers, and have zero idea how to do CFD modeling

yup that adjustment screwed me up after I adjusted my rear brake height. It doesn't take much of an adjustment on that nut, and its in a really challenging area to reach, but it will kill your Cruise if it isn't tweaked.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB1YXBX?psc=1&smid=AWW5S50OW6LNE&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp These may be them?

Have a link? I've tried a few others and was never happy with how they looked, but those are legit awesome for teh Givi bars! Link would be awesome