pilninggas

The Niken costs £13500 - about us$18500. The GT costs £15000 - about us$20600. Both are inclusive of VAT (@20%). Both are currently available with 0% finance, and i suspect dealers would offer finance on the RRP (the prices above) or offer higher rate finance if they discount. Discounts on Yamahas in dealers are very common, the Niken/GT both have substantial discounts around the UK, probably partly the quirkiness and partly the lockdown and financial downturn.

id do the same. here in the uk, a dropped bike would be worth wholesale salvage - i see no reason why that would be different on the other side of the pond. A small amount off does not cover this and they need to supply a new bike.

VW/audi have the same paint/

skoda nardo grey is very, very close.

Several Modified and Stance Cars Seized by German Police En Route to Worthersee in UK Despite the cars being registered in a different country, the Polizei deemed...

Here in the UK (and Europe), the Niken is defined legally as a two wheeler because the wheel spacing is only 410mm. The Niken has caused issues within the regulation industry, for example the MOT (our fitness test) has had to bulletins issued because of the Niken which says it is mot'd as a bicycle (motor bicycle) not as a trike. I did speak to a copper and he said that as far as traffic and roads policing were concerned as long as the rider had a full licence with the correct power designation (various kW steps) then they were only bothered that the machine was insured. Regarding interstate travel, here in europe (not the EU, the wider continent) 'visitor rights' apply whereby if it is legal in your own country, then it is legal for temporary visits. The only exception there is the German plod, who take exception to extremely modified vehicles - which they will prohibit on the spot if it doesnt comply with local laws.

id say that was just a lazy addition by the person who designs the shop. Would take mods to put them on the niken.

Like all machinery designed with modern ergos it could be a beginner machine. But i wouldnt, it's dynamics are a little different to a 2 wheeled cycle. The extra wheel doesnt make it safer necessarily, just more stable in turns.

Either TC-off or Tc-1. Not used 2 at all.

+ I have wheelied the Niken. That engine is a peach and it'll lift the front end on the throttle quite easily. Not gonna make a habit of it, as the front end is heavy and the rake is steep.

I used to all sorts of tricky stuff like big wheelies and stoppies. Not now. But I do expect a 190 rear not to spin up all the time. Those A41s are rubbish. Perhaps aftermarket versions are better than OEM (as we all know, OEM models can be quite different to the aftermarker version of the tyre), but i no longer trust them at all.

The rear was shot @3200 miles, it wore out not because it was soft - it wasnt, but because it span up all the time [even above 70mph] and chewed the centre away. The fronts were still useful in terms of tread/wear, but i detested their lack of grip [too hard, had some massive slides that would have put me on my ass, were it not for the 2 fronts] and lack of feel, a really numb compound. Ruining an amazing front end set-up. The pirellis are amazing by comparison. An absolute must change on this bike.

Just an update - i changed my - awful OEM - BS A41s for Pirelli Diablo Rossos, the scooter variant for the fronts (the H rated model) and the ZR rear, at Christmas. I havent had enough time (lockdown) or dry weather (Wales) to try them properly, until this afternoon coming home from work. WOW, WOW, WOW. The bike (trike) is completely different on good rubber, a far better prospect. The front isnt trying to slide when pushed hard (and i mean really chucking it through the turns and gassing hard out of the apex) and the rear isnt spinning up at the drop of a hat. This transforms the bike. Night and day compared to those poxy A41s. Considering it weighs 270kg (mine must be knocking on 300kg with the engine bars, top box rack and my workbag) plus me, it feels lithe - the steep rake working much better with the Pirelli fronts. Felt far sportier and less ponderous (not that it was bad, it was just vague). This makes the bike really, really work.

The roads around the Hunsruck are amazing. Love them and they are so little known. I have ridden loads in the triangle between Pforzheim, Luxemburg and Cologne. Amazing hairpins, stunning scenery and sticky black roads.

Any auxilliary lights arent inspected. Just turn them off for the test.

It's something like these: Light Spotlight Additional LED 10W White 6000K Waterproof CUTTING KIT Link to eBay page Link to eBay page Link to eBay page Link to... But i only paid £16 delivered for the pair. Chinesium specials. Mainly to get seen - the UK has some seriously myopic drivers. b

Under the welsh rules you can go about 5 miles from home, so got out for a bit and did a northern orbit of my house. Nice to be out on the Niken. The Pirellis are miles better than the rubbish it came with.

I sometimes lock my helmet to my bike with a cable lock - always though the front aperture and not using the strap. Not a huge fan though - im aware of people having helmets vandalised here in the UK - even of someone having a helmet pissed in....

What is Smart Vision 3 - got a link?

Woolwich will sell you a kit so you can do it yourself - i havent used it but would have thought it would be more than adequate for improving fuelling, removing any 'holes' in fuelling for emissions and for deleting altering functions in the ECU.

Lots of 80s jap bikes had this sort of set-up. I have an XJ600 with this exact system of shim 'on top'. The trouble with this arrangement is the size of shim needed (it has to be bigger so that it will never come out in normal operation), bigger shim and follower assembly means more mass means less revs. The japs use bucket with shim underneath as it cheap to assemble (as has been said) and allows high revs. I think they dont do hydraulic lifters is due to the fact a loss of oil pressure at high rpms, not only being catastrophic for the engine, would also be extremely dangerous as it could result in the valves not opening and the drive train locking up.

+Definitely AIS function and aftermarket exhaust. most bikes you can just block off the air feedpipe that goes from the airbox to the ais system. The easiest way is to pull the pipe off the stub at the airbox and put something in/on there [like some thick polythene - not thin, the petrol atmosphere will dissolve it] or use a ball bearing. What ever you use make sure it cant move. I done it this way on several bikes and it always sorts it - you can do a full ais-delete when you have to do a valve job or similar.

In the EU and UK they come with 3 keys - 2 black for everyday use and 1 red which is used to program replacements. Not sure if NA/Canada is the same, but would assume so.

I've done almost all of the top mainland roads here in Europe. Stelvio, Trollstigen, Transfargarasan, road to the dead end on the Mulhacen among many others. The Dolomites and Central CH have the most memorable passes: Pordoi, Furka, Grimsel, Sella among a few others. Only driven a car in US (Cali and NV) - maybe ill do Cali on a bike one day. Once this bloody pandemic is done, i will be riding Europe on the Niken. Cant wait.

When I read this in work earlier [and couldnt reply], I thought - as other has posted - that the chain timing was out. I once rushed a timing belt on renault laguna and got one tooth out on the exhaust. It started warmed up okay, but idled slowly and died. Had to pull it apart and retime it (oops). I am amazed a valve job would alter a bike from feeling acceptable/normal to not idling - these are quite extreme variations. As long as your mechanic is confident it is timed in correctly, then i'd be inclined to think a hose or sensor is still adrift. You need to have the vacuum analysed using one of those electronic balancing kits like this: eSync Tool (EST) - HealTech Electronics Ltd. Highlights Just plug it in and start the measurement. The eSync Tool... (a decent tech might see it on an old analogue balancer set). Somewhere something is wrong and vacuum analysis might reveal it - even stripping some body work to investigate might reveal an unconnected pipe or connector. I've had loads of modern bikes do 50,000 miles none had piston ring wear (apart from the 2 strokes!). I wish i could look at it for you, I cant believe you will have to take a loss because of other people's 'diagnosis'.