9 gt first oil change / capacity?

[T9 Jeffrey]

Just did the 600 mile break in oil change. 
Thought the drain plug would be metric, 17mm. But it’s US 11/16. 😏  Nearly stripped the head assuming. 

Main reason for post:

The manual says 3.4 quarts oil capacity. I drained hot oil on level ground on center stand 20 min after ride. Also removed filter. 
Replenished with 3 quarts after installing new filter, started motor. Then let sit.
Viewed sight glass on level ground (confirmed by iPhone level) and it was right at the top of the circle, above top line. 
Rode the bike a few miles, rechecked. Still over filled. Had to then pump about a half pint out of the fill hole. Now at top line. 
So, if the capacity is 3.4qt, and I put in 3 and then removed .25, then where did the remaining .65 quarts go?

[betoney]

4 hours ago, T9 Jeffrey said:

Just did the 600 mile break in oil change. 
Thought the drain plug would be metric, 17mm. But it’s US 11/16.

Check the bolt head for damage or deformation to see why the 17mm socket didn't fit, Yamaha didn't put an 11/16 bolt on your bike, the threads wouldn't fit in the oil pan.  Use a caliper and check across all 3 faces of the bolt head to ensure 17mm.

[OZVFR]

Agree with Betoney, no Japanese bike has anything but metric bolts.

[KrustyKush]

As for oil capacity, my 21 GT takes 3 U.S. quarts, plus a couple ounces to wetten the new oil filter before I install it.  This always puts the oil level just a hair under the top line on the site glass.

I don't pay much attention to book capacities for this kind of thing.  You never can get all the old oil out.  Make sure you let the thing sit for a good few hours to drain completely.  Mine likes to burp oil out the oil filter boss for awhile.  In other words, don't be in a hurry, let it sit and drain with both filter and crankcase drain bolt removed, until nothing additional drips out.

Edited January 10 by KrustyKush

[robzilla]

Interesting - my '22 takes about 3.25 to 3.5 qts which shows just at the halfway point on the sight after warming it up a few times.  I don't do the tilt or shake method to get every ounce like this fellow did here, but it doesn't use the full 4 qts either.  

 

Edited January 10 by robzilla

[T9 Jeffrey]

Thanks. 
Yeah the bolt thing is odd. 
17mm socket wouldn’t fit all the way to base of bolt head. Started marring the edges, especially since the bolt was very tight. 
11/16 then fit perfectly, all the way to base and precise no-wiggle fit. Cracked the bolt open with a firm pull. All good. 

To one poster: 11/16 or 17mm is the bolt head size, not the thread size. 

Maybe others are successful with 17mm socket because the bolt is already cracked open from previous. My bolt was VERY tight from factory, on first oil change.

Anyone reading this in the future should not assume I’m right. It’s more likely an anomaly of some type. 

[Ziggy105]

11/16" is 17.4625mm

[RaYzerman]

For all you rookies to Yamaha, they have had the wrong torque spec for the oil drain bolt for years, FJR = 31 ft. lbs, MT-09/Tracer 32 ft. lbs.  Everybody has had that extremely tight problem on the first oil change.  It is suspected that is for a dry torque on virgin threads.  As soon as you remove it, it is lubricated so now one needs to drop that torque 30-40%...... make  note if you use crush washers, they start to crush at ~14-15 ft. lbs.  Most of us learned to use the torque on the identical bolt and crush washer used in the rear drives of FJR's which is 17 ft. lbs.  I say if you crush a crush washer beyond that, it's just a flat washer, so why?

I use the Honda aluminum washers, same 17 ft.lbs., no more than 20 and one washer will last you a lifetime.

Bottom line, do not follow the factory torque spec and strip out your drain plug........

[Ride365]

^^^^^THIS^^^^^

[jthayer09]

On 1/9/2024 at 8:39 PM, T9 Jeffrey said:

Just did the 600 mile break in oil change. 
Thought the drain plug would be metric, 17mm. But it’s US 11/16. 😏  Nearly stripped the head assuming. 

Main reason for post:

The manual says 3.4 quarts oil capacity. I drained hot oil on level ground on center stand 20 min after ride. Also removed filter. 
Replenished with 3 quarts after installing new filter, started motor. Then let sit.
Viewed sight glass on level ground (confirmed by iPhone level) and it was right at the top of the circle, above top line. 
Rode the bike a few miles, rechecked. Still over filled. Had to then pump about a half pint out of the fill hole. Now at top line. 
So, if the capacity is 3.4qt, and I put in 3 and then removed .25, then where did the remaining .65 quarts go?

Let's assume your bike started with 3.4 quarts; if you drained all of it and replace the filter you are at zero.

You replenished with 3 quarts, then removed .25qt. You're not "missing" .65qt; quarts because you never put in that much. You only put in 3 quarts out of 3.4qt total capacity, then drained it to 2.75 out of 3.40qts

BUT! You say that your sight glass was overfilled with the 3qts you put in. That would indicate you never went down to zero from the first drain: there was still oil left in your oil pan, engine internals, crevices, etc. There's lot of places for oil to stick and hide; all of that settles back down over time.

If you're not going to let it drain overnight, and tip the bike every-which-way to get every last drop out don't assume you're back down to zero, that's where your .65qts went. Going by the sight glass is the right thing to do, otherwise you're just overthinking it 😎





 

[skipperT]

10 hours ago, RaYzerman said:

For all you rookies to Yamaha, they have had the wrong torque spec for the oil drain bolt for years, FJR = 31 ft. lbs, MT-09/Tracer 32 ft. lbs.  Everybody has had that extremely tight problem on the first oil change.  It is suspected that is for a dry torque on virgin threads.  As soon as you remove it, it is lubricated so now one needs to drop that torque 30-40%...... make  note if you use crush washers, they start to crush at ~14-15 ft. lbs.  Most of us learned to use the torque on the identical bolt and crush washer used in the rear drives of FJR's which is 17 ft. lbs.  I say if you crush a crush washer beyond that, it's just a flat washer, so why?

I use the Honda aluminum washers, same 17 ft.lbs., no more than 20 and one washer will last you a lifetime.

Bottom line, do not follow the factory torque spec and strip out your drain plug........

Strongly Disagree with this advice. 

I’ve torqued THOUSANDS of Yamaha drain plugs over the years. 
-replace the washer every time. 
-torque to 30-31 ft lbs every time, with wet threads. Use a legit torque wrench. 
!!!NEVER stripped a drain plug!!!

The reason the initial/600 mile drain plug is so freakin tight from the factory is because they use a machine/impact to install them, and they get over torqued. 

and those 94109-12000 and 94109-14000 flat washers from Honda? Keep reusing them and they’re guaranteed to leak eventually.  And/or you’ll have to cut them off the drain plug with side cutters because they’re so deformed. And/or you’ll over-torque a drain plug and strip the case/oil pan. 

The reason people strip drain plugs is because of cheap torque wrenches and re-using the washers. Period. 
BT Fixed That. 

-Skip

 

Edited January 12 by skipperT

[Hamilton Tracer]

While we are on this topic.  I'm in the market for a new torque wrench.  Do you guys have any suggestions.

I've used a Canadian Tire version for 10 plus years.  

I think it's been telling me the truth but I've never verified with something high end.

[RaYzerman]

I'll just say most other Japanese motorcycles using the same size/thread and crush washers have torque specs for the drain bolt anywhere from ~15-20 ft. lbs.  With all due respect Skipper, I think you should buy a lottery ticket.  Hamilton, you can look up on YouTube a couple of ways to calibrate your torque wrench or at least verify what it is at various torque readings.  It should be most accurate in the middle of its range.

[Ride365]

Replacing the crush washer is wasting a perfectly good washer, I have owned many motorcycles in my life and have never replaced one, never stripped out a pan, and never had a drop of oil leak from the bolt. Yamaha has other incorrect/insane torque ratings in the manual, and using those ratings has caused a few issues for folks. Of course in saying that......do as you wish and good luck. 

[Lone Wolf]

On 1/11/2024 at 8:55 PM, skipperT said:

-torque to 30-31 ft lbs every time, with wet threads. Use a legit torque wrench. 
!!!NEVER stripped a drain plug!!

Not trying to start a pissing contest - but with all due respect why are the oil drain plug torque specs on my Chevy truck and Chrysler vans 18 - 20 ft lbs? I use that range for all drain plugs, all my vehicles.  A bolt is a bolt, and after the first oil change they are no longer a dry torque setting.

14 hours ago, Hamilton Tracer said:

While we are on this topic.  I'm in the market for a new torque wrench.  Do you guys have any suggestions.

I've used a Canadian Tire version for 10 plus years.  

I think it's been telling me the truth but I've never verified with something high end.

Yeah that is half the battle, trusting the reading. If you spend a fortune on Snap On you get that "trust" feeling you don't get from Harbor Freight or similar cheap torque wrench. I have owned the cheap ones, and didn't trust them.

For larger fasteners such as axle bolts and lug nuts, I got a TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive (10-150 ft.-lb.) | model 24335.

At first I just had one large torque wrench. Then I started to feel like i was using a sledge hammer to drive in nails.  A torque wrench works best in the middle of it's range for accuracy.

For the torque range of an oil drain plug, I got a CDI 7502MRMH Torque 3/8-Inch Drive (100-750 inch lb). Snap On owns CDI, so I get the warm fuzzy feeling there is some quality control. It didn't cost a fortune yet exudes quality.

For smaller fasteners I use GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench 30-250 in/lbs. model 85061 because it was $60 less than the CDI in that range and I rarely use it.  I got a smaller range torque wrench because I have "gone too far" many times when just torqueing an important fastener by feel.

For the cost of those 3 well reviewed torque wrenches I could have purchased one "premium" wrench, but after using these for the last several years I think I made the right choice.

Edited January 13 by Lone Wolf