Guest dmizer Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Yesterday I had a different situation / sound. The bike was trotting like only one cylinder was trying to fire on a cold start. I got the bike started. About 1/4 mile down the road, I lost power and noticed the check engine light was on. I had that weird sound like a single cylinder was trying to fire and noticed the check engine light was on. When I managed to get it off the bike started and ran fine. This is a completely different problem, and you should get it to the dealer asap for diagnosis since there will be a trouble code for them to pull. I have yet to get a check engine light, or trouble code. If there was a code, this problem would be way easier to fix. But my confidence is now suffering that I might be trailering this bike someday to get it home. No reason to distrust a bike that is still under warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcsp Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 With only around 700 miles on my '16 it seems if the bike sits for a few days w/o being run, it seems to crank over a fair amount before it starts, this being a cold start. (Bike is stock, no ecu flash, etc.) At first I thought it was a fluke, but it seems to be happening more often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 1moreroad Posted August 12, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted August 12, 2017 With only around 700 miles on my '16 it seems if the bike sits for a few days w/o being run, it seems to crank over a fair amount before it starts, this being a cold start. (Bike is stock, no ecu flash, etc.) At first I thought it was a fluke, but it seems to be happening more often. How far do you ride each time? Is there time to charge the battery? Unhook the battery and check it's voltage. If it's low charge it up. Ride it 30 minutes or more and check voltage. If it's full, you might just need to ride more to keep the battery charged. If it's low, you might have a regulator/rectifier (warranty) problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingsnowcat Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingsnowcat Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 [div style=text-align:justify] I just went through 25,000 km on my fj-09 & it has begun the cheaky 3500 rpm @ start up on a warm day but cold engine. My service tech feels it is the "idle air control valve" or I parts would call it air "cut valve assembly" I will test the bike with most of what I have read on the forum, with the exception of the most drastic & get back Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingsnowcat Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 I just clocked 25,000km on my '15 & have noticed it starting & idling to 3500rpm. I shut it down & restart, all but once it started correctly @ 11-1200 rpm. My service tech said it could be the "idle air valve". So I have been doing some experimenting with it after reading the thread. I will make sure the start switch is in off, turn the key to its fullest on position, ensure the fuel pump has pressurized the injectors, and mfd screen has fully booted, then push the start. I have done this twice now & all is ok Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJ29ER Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 I deleted my charcoal cannister. I ordered the 49 state tube and clamp since my bike is still under warranty and made it all factory. No hard starts at all. about 2k since delete. Only burble I get is on a cold morning. But it starts right away just takes about .5 sec to idle up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 I deleted my charcoal cannister. I ordered the 49 state tube and clamp since my bike is still under warranty and made it all factory. No hard starts at all. about 2k since delete. Only burble I get is on a cold morning. But it starts right away just takes about .5 sec to idle up. I need to do this. Mine doesn't like starting after sitting in the sun for a little while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJ29ER Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 I deleted my charcoal cannister. I ordered the 49 state tube and clamp since my bike is still under warranty and made it all factory. No hard starts at all. about 2k since delete. Only burble I get is on a cold morning. But it starts right away just takes about .5 sec to idle up. I need to do this. Mine doesn't like starting after sitting in the sun for a little while. Do it. That is exactly why I did it to mine. Weight saving as well!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member britelitebob Posted September 7, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted September 7, 2017 I deleted my charcoal cannister. I ordered the 49 state tube and clamp since my bike is still under warranty and made it all factory. No hard starts at all. about 2k since delete. Only burble I get is on a cold morning. But it starts right away just takes about .5 sec to idle up....I'm guessing I have one too. Where is it and what did you install in its place? Their on the California bikes BLB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member DavidS Posted September 7, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted September 7, 2017 ............My usual routine for turning the bike off is to turn the kill switch off, then turn the key off. Which, perhaps interestingly, is how the motorcycle riding schools teach you how to do things here in Japan, so it became habit. However, I recently added electric heated gloves, and have occasionally decided to turn the bike off with the key instead of the kill switch in order to prevent the gloves from drawing current when the bike is not running but still powered on. My start routine hasn't changed: kill switch from "stop" to "run", key to the on position, wait for the pump to prime and the dash to fully boot. Start the bike. Several times I have experienced a hard starting when cold issue, and I noticed that every time I had this issue was when I turned the bike off with the key instead of using the kill switch. It doesn't happen every time I use the key to turn the bike off, but it does only happen when I use the key to turn the bike off. So, if solutions mentioned in points 1 through 5 don't help your cold starting issue, I suggest changing your power off procedure to kill switch first, then key off. Be aware though, that you do have to switch the kill switch to the "run" position before you turn the key on, otherwise the fuel pump won't prime and the bike may not start. Sorry to bring this up again, but I felt that my experience with this issue may shed some light on a routine that has the potential for resolving the issue for some people. I don't think the kill switch vs the key has any impact on the hard starting. They are wired the same. Here is a video from MC Garage that talks about this very issue: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/mc-garage-videothe-motorcycle-kill-switch-mystery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJ29ER Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 I deleted my charcoal cannister. I ordered the 49 state tube and clamp since my bike is still under warranty and made it all factory. No hard starts at all. about 2k since delete. Only burble I get is on a cold morning. But it starts right away just takes about .5 sec to idle up. ...I'm guessing I have one too. Where is it and what did you install in its place? I do believe they are only on the california bikes. It is under the tank near the back. I just ran a vent tube straight to ground. Only issue is when it is sitting in the hot sun you will have a spot of fuel on the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.