How bad does engine run before throttle body re-synch?

[DavidS]

Or you could upgrade your mascot to this:
 
 

 

[xlxr]

Sorry nsmiller, but you have been out-voted. Seems like I am not the only one who does not need throttle synch at 600 miles, or even 5,000 miles. I will do it, when it needs to be done.
 
Dang it, I can't find the manometer thingy I had 25 years ago.  Where did I put it?
 

[nsmiller]

Sorry nsmiller, but you have been out-voted. Seems like I am not the only one who does not need throttle synch at 600 miles, or even 5,000 miles. I will do it, when it needs to be done. 
Dang it, I can't find the manometer thingy I had 25 years ago.  Where did I put it?

To each their own.

[zimbob]

I installed Kevs o2 sensor last week. If I purposely try to make the bike run uneven like driving at slow speed 2800 to 3000 rpm.I can barely hear the dadata miss. Its so minuscule I cannot feel the miss anymore. Im thinking a throttle bodies sync is due as its never been done.

[xlxr]

With the 2WDW reflash, my engine runs great directly off idle. The engine will lug and chug if I open the throttle too much, but that is completely normal for any engine. I know some guys complain about rough running under 3,000 RPM, but I do not have that problem, which is a big reason I don't want to try and re-synch the throttle valves. I would assume that rough running under 3,000 rpm is a good indication throttle valves need re-synch.

[xlxr]

Has anybody tried to adjust "accelerator position sensor" to minimize snatchy throttle problems in A mode? I assume it would be best to synch throttle valves before trying to adjust accelerator position sensor.

[skipperT]

You can try it. But you might need to also adjust the APS to match, or you may throw codes. Up or down 1 or 2 shouldn't be a big deal. For example, if the value in DIAG is 16, try 17 or 18. I wouldn't go too far out of the range however.
 
My understanding is that the only difference between A and STD and B modes is how fast the ECM opens the throttle body plates, with A having the fastest "response".
 
I still maintain that adjusting your CO level up 10-20 clicks richer will help with the "snatchiness". Usually cheaper than an O2 controller to shut off Closed loop mode.
 
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[xlxr]

I have been reading up in the FJ 09 service manual, looking up You Tube videos (which are for different engines), and talked to Nels at 2WDW, trying to figure this out. The logical steps would be to synchronize throttle bodies, check/adjust Throttle position sensor, then check/adjust accelerator position sensor. Nels told me the idle value of the accelerator position sensor can be turned down to as low as 14, manual says range of 12-22. He said most new bikes do not need these adjustments to be re-set, but a few do. I could not find any threads detailing these adjustments, but haven't had time to look through everything yet.
 
I had 2WDW set A mode to come up automatically at start up, thinking I could eventually get used to the snatchy throttle just off idle, much improved over stock, but I am just trying to make it suite my riding style and be able to stay in A mode all the time and not have to switch to B mode when riding in traffic.
 
How do I reset CO, is there a way other than re-flash ECU?

[skipperT]

I don't believe anyone on the board has adjusted the sensors. It's a relatively simple procedure once you take everything apart for access. Most TPS sensors are held in with a safety Torx screw. So you will need that special bit for those screws.
 
Don't forget about valve clearances, as they affect the TB sync.
 
Changing the CO percentage can only be done with dealer software. And it is supposed to be performed when the bike is hooked up to an Exhaust Gas Analyser.
 
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[xlxr]

What is a "safety" Torx screw? I have standard Torx and Torx plus bits.
 
Note there is a throttle position sensor AND accelerator position sensor, two different parts, but work together.

[xlxr]

First time I ever saw those were on this bike. So much for security or safety when you can buy a set of bits from Harbor Freight. Looks like I get to buy more tools.

[nsmiller]

I first saw them on a bathroom stall door. Because, you know, bathroom doors are what you want to steal.

[BentAero]

They're also called "security". Like torx but with a protrusion in center.  

...and you can buy a set of bits for these 'security' screws at Harbor Freight for less than $10.00 -so they're not real secure.

[pattonme]

I'm surprised the TB were being synced at idle. On carbies we'd put at least 2000 RPM on the engine since idle was notoriously unstable.
Unfortunately I don't think there is a fast-idle switch on the ECU? We also tuned it with the motor at close to operating temp.

[skipperT]

What is a "safety" Torx screw? I have standard Torx and Torx plus bits.  
Note there is a throttle position sensor AND accelerator position sensor, two different parts, but work together.

 
Yes. The APS and the TPS are basically the same type of sensor. The location on the bike and the data they send to/from the ECM are what define their responsibilities/name.
 
These guys told you about the "safety" torx.
 
The only thing I would add is that not all safety torx bits are the same.
I have a set of Snap On and a set from Cornwell tools (made by another company and labeled "cornwell").
 
Funny thing is, the Snap On set is the one that the diameter of the "safety" part of the bit - seems to be too small/big, depending on the fastener. It's totally random.
 
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