Premium Member Brick Posted March 11, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted March 11, 2017 Ok... I'll bite... what is PAO based oil. Name, brand... photo of bottle. You know all pertinent information. ?? Brick 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 "Red Molly" 2014 Yamaha Super Tenere' ES 1999 Suzuki SV650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlxr Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Google PAO oils, only the better ones will claim extended oil drain intervals. PAO is a common full synthetic base oil, that among other things, will not leave sludge coating the inside of the engine, and burn off cleaner in combustion chamber. I do not want to start any oil debates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted March 12, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted March 12, 2017 Good thing you don't want to start and oil "debate", as otherwise I'd state that a better cost-performance choice would be a near-PAO oil that is also JASO DH-2 certified (a rarity here in the US) Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic. However, only if you are not a participant in the official Yamaha 10 year / 100,000 mile extended oil failure warranty that required one to utilize only Yamaha oil and oil filters (though Yamalube full synthetic is not a bad oil and not that much more than T6). http://rotella.shell.com/products/t6-full-synthetic.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlxr Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 I am trying really hard to not continue with the oil debate. But I did not see any information that Rotella can be used for extended drain intervals, but it will be cheaper than PAO oils that do offer extended drain intervals. "Near PAO" probably means hydrocracked dino oil, none of which are good enough to offer extended drain intervals. But more importantly, I did not see any statement that it is OK for use in motorcycle transmissions with wet clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wessie Posted March 12, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted March 12, 2017 I am trying really hard to not continue with the oil debate. But I did not see any information that Rotella can be used for extended drain intervals, but it will be cheaper than PAO oils that do offer extended drain intervals. "Near PAO" probably means hydrocracked dino oil, none of which are good enough to offer extended drain intervals. But more importantly, I did not see any statement that it is OK for use in motorcycle transmissions with wet clutch. http://rotella.shell.com/products/t6-full-synthetic.html says it meets JASO MA and MA2 - these are the wet clutch specs quoted in your manual not the JASO DH2 mentioned above This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member britelitebob Posted March 12, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted March 12, 2017 I am trying really hard to not continue with the oil debate. But I did not see any information that Rotella can be used for extended drain intervals, but it will be cheaper than PAO oils that do offer extended drain intervals. "Near PAO" probably means hydrocracked dino oil, none of which are good enough to offer extended drain intervals. But more importantly, I did not see any statement that it is OK for use in motorcycle transmissions with wet clutch. I've been using Rotella in my bikes for a long time and never had any issues with a clutch. I usually change it at around 6,000 miles or so but I have gone longer and it still seems to hold up great compared to conventional oils. I buy it in bulk because I have some other diesel equipment and I usually have some extra laying around to do a bike when I need to. BLB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treybrad Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 Back to the topic, I performed the TB sync this weekend. Not a bad job, just lots of pieces to remove to get to the TBs. l think I spent a little over 2 hours doing it while chatting with a buddy, taking my time. Could probably do it a little over an hour if you needed to. I'm right at 4k miles, they weren't wildly out of sync, but I made a few adjustments to bring them in line. Has made a noticeable improvement in smoothness/vibration at speed, as well as jerkiness at very small throttle openings like in a slow, residential area. I will mention to be very careful refitting the tank. I didn't realize the frame was so vulnerable to the large metal brackets on the front of the tank. Now I have two small scratches on my frame thanks to my ineptitude... ugh ;-| And because everyone likes pictures: trey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark&Stormy Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 I will mention to be very careful refitting the tank. I didn't realize the frame was so vulnerable to the large metal brackets on the front of the tank. Now I have two small scratches on my frame thanks to my ineptitude... ugh ;-| I also have the same scratches of shame on my frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted March 15, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted March 15, 2017 My ECU is on its way back from Vcyclenut and upon reinstallation (after the AISectomy I posted a How-To on) I will check the TB but through the prior 10,000 miles I've never been bother by excessive vibration but I have filled the bars full and solid with BBs and have the O2 Controller (which is now for sale if anyone is interested at $25 off cost). Yes, I grabbed the wrong JASO spec; i.e., JASO MA and MA2. http://rotella.shell.com/products/t6-full-synthetic/_jcr_content/par/textimage_1335213348.stream/1388525673850/2c4570ceb0dcc96c0e045d7d6f3c7796f77a84ed6a3d6752bb50d245468c48b2/rotella-t6-brochure.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member martyl Posted March 19, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted March 19, 2017 Just throwing it out there but changing the spark plugs at the service intervals does help keeping things in sync as well. The TB adjust is important as well. A Motorcyclist's Church is the open road.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlxr Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 I have not heard any good explanation why Yamaha recommends changing plugs at 8,000 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thruster8999 Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 I usually change my plugs on the bikes at 15000miles. 8000miles seems low to throw away good plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patkin Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 I think the first one I do I will run 3 short hoses out where I can access them for the next go around. Capped of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 I have not heard any good explanation why Yamaha recommends changing plugs at 8,000 miles. Me either, though I think the consensus was "that is the recommendation for all their other models" - so Why change it? Based on my bike, a 12k mile plug change interval is just fine. I changed mine at 8k, and as others have mentioned - they were quite clean. I'm overdue for the next interval, will change them when I do the valves very shortly. At that point I will have close to 15k on stock NGK plugs. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3banger Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 I will mention to be very careful refitting the tank. I didn't realize the frame was so vulnerable to the large metal brackets on the front of the tank. Now I have two small scratches on my frame thanks to my ineptitude... ugh ;-| I also have the same scratches of shame on my frame. Same scratches on mine, leave the front bolts in and loose while lifting up the rear of the tank to make or brake fuel and electrical connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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