prn Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 Hello All, I received my Givi TN2122 crash bars today. Instructions are not super clear and I am not good at this. I wanted to ask, as per instructions I need to remove long hex headed bolt that goes all the way to the other side. If I remove this long bolt, do I need to support bike or can it be removed without supporting bike? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kivimarko Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 Hello All, I received my Givi TN2122 crash bars today. Instructions are not super clear and I am not good at this. I wanted to ask, as per instructions I need to remove long hex headed bolt that goes all the way to the other side. If I remove this long bolt, do I need to support bike or can it be removed without supporting bike? Thanks My gf hold my bike while I did it. Use a hammer to get out the bolt ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prn Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Hello All, I received my Givi TN2122 crash bars today. Instructions are not super clear and I am not good at this. I wanted to ask, as per instructions I need to remove long hex headed bolt that goes all the way to the other side. If I remove this long bolt, do I need to support bike or can it be removed without supporting bike? Thanks My gf hold my bike while I did it. Use a hammer to get out the bolt ! Thanks for reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prn Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Does you(@kivimarko) or anybody know torque specs for installing this crash bar? Instructions don't mention those and I do not have the service manual. I am looking specs for two upper engine bolts, foot peg harness bolt and long hex headed bolt that goes all the way to the other side. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted March 24, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted March 24, 2017 Need bike on center stand, jack engine slightly, crows foot wrench required, not near FSM now for torque specs, be careful not to snap off clutch push arm return spring reaction nub on side case next to pivot shaft! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member DavidS Posted March 25, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted March 25, 2017 Does you(@kivimarko ) or anybody know torque specs for installing this crash bar? Instructions don't mention those and I do not have the service manual. I am looking specs for two upper engine bolts, foot peg harness bolt and long hex headed bolt that goes all the way to the other side. Thanks Engine mount adjust bolt (front) 7Nm (0.7 m.kgf, 5.1 ft.lbf) Engine mount adjust bolt (rear) 7Nm (0.7 m.kgf, 5.1 ft.lbf) Engine mounting nut (rear lower side) 45 Nm (4.5 m.kgf, 33 ft.lbf) Engine mounting nut (rear upper side) 45 Nm (4.5 m.kgf, 33 ft.lbf) Engine mounting bolt (front upper and front lower side) 45 Nm (4.5 m.kgf, 33 ft.lbf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted June 5, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted June 5, 2017 Below is what I fitted. Use both U-Straps and their holes were difficult to align. I replaced the bolts (will have to check size but I think M12 x1.5) and tightened then in stages with electrical tape underneath as shim stock but stainless steel shim stock would be better. Easy Rider man but they really give you some relief on long, boring, flat straight roads! I rest my boots on them and can straigten my leg and rest my calves on them. laugh if you must but once you are past the age of 60, every little bit helps. I also have LED driving light mounted to the Givi case guards... http://www.ebay.com/itm/222389896809?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angelocorreia Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 I replaced one bolt at a time with the bike on the center stand. It didn't need any additional support. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigk1435 Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 I replaced one bolt at a time with the bike on the center stand. It didn't need any additional support.Same here, one bolt and one side at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leo125 Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 When you put the crash bars on did you use a torque wrench? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther6834 Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 When I installed mine, the only problem I ran into was the lower bolt on the left side, near the shift lever. It was a serous PITA, purely because the bolt goes entirely through the frame, needs a wrench for reach side, and (realistically) requires two people. I had to take my bike into the shop for something unrelated, and asked if they'd loosen the bolt for me, which they did (no extra charge). Once they'd loosened it, getting it off the rest of the way, and getting it back on, was fairly simple. I started removing it from one side with a rubber mallet, and pulled it out from the other side using a vice-grip. Side note: The GIVI Engine Guard Bars make an excellent mounting point for the compressor of a Denali SoundBomb Dual-Tone Air Horn, highway pegs, & running/fog lights. If anyone is looking for a great highway peg mount, I HIGHLY recommend the Joker Machine 1.25" Highway Bar Footpeg Mount (available from Revzilla, https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/joker-machine-125-highway-bar-footpeg-mount?kclid=b7938ee1-d968-456f-936d-e78e532d1099&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2f7bBRDVARIsAAwYBBudjJkLHbTM7-2IANfcT42WDmKC4dWnRQnanxR8MO9keIcu3o58PQAaAhMcEALw_wcB), along with your choice of footpegs. Joker Machine makes several footpegs, but any HD-mount footage should work. For mounting, use a couple of short pieces of 1.25" OD, 1" ID tubing (this recommendationcame directly from Joker Machine). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted March 4, 2019 Premium Member Share Posted March 4, 2019 If you jack up the rear of the engine slightly remove the bolt, clean and Lube it, and then install it reversed so the threads are on the left side, it is much easier to remove the left case guard when it's time to adjust the valves because the left case guard blocks access to the crank bolt and timing mark port If you look at my photos I already have some great driving lights and highway pegs that work very well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member piotrek Posted March 5, 2019 Supporting Member Share Posted March 5, 2019 7 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said: If you jack up the rear of the engine slightly remove the bolt, clean and Lube it, and then install it reversed so the threads are on the left side, it is much easier to remove the left case guard when it's time to adjust the valves because the left case guard blocks access to the crank bolt and timing mark port... I opted to modify a long 14mm ball-end hex key. Looked where along the key there was interference with the bar and ground the key to reduce the circumference in just that area. The ball-end needed trimming (flattening) a bit for a good fit inside the shallow hex cavity in the cover. Worked great. Working the crank bolt was no issue using a 19mm socket on a long 3/8" extension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted March 6, 2019 Premium Member Share Posted March 6, 2019 On 3/4/2019 at 9:06 PM, piotrek said: I opted to modify a long 14mm ball-end hex key. Looked where along the key there was interference with the bar and ground the key to reduce the circumference in just that area. The ball-end needed trimming (flattening) a bit for a good fit inside the shallow hex cavity in the cover. Worked great. Working the crank bolt was no issue using a 19mm socket on a long 3/8" extension. I have a long 14 mm ball end too that I tried but it interfered and didn't think of grinding its circumference let alone flattening the end of the ball I'll have to try that thanks for the suggestion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andz Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 I bought TN2122 bars this morning for my 17 Tracer, the right one went on no bother but the left front hole doesn't line up with the hole in the frame if the rear (long) bolt is installed and the centre one is hooked over the bolt. Is this badly made or am I doing something wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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