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APS adjustment


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I also recently adjusted the APS.   Very easy with a 1/4" ratchet and an 8 mm socket.
My bike has a reflash done by TWD and it always felt "herky jerky" doing off/on throttle transitions. The A mode for the throttle was way too sensitive to low RPM throttle transitions.   I added a G-2 throttle and it improved things but still not near as controllable as I would like. 
 
I recently did the APS adjustment and it made a very noticeable improvement. Well worth doing in my book.  
 
Removing and re-installing the body work necessary to tip the tank forward took more time than the simple adjustment procedure.  
 
Go for it!
Bill
 
 
 
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I also recently adjusted the APS.   Very easy with a 1/4" ratchet and an 8 mm socket. My bike has a reflash done by TWD and it always felt "herky jerky" doing off/on throttle transitions. The A mode for the throttle was way too sensitive to low RPM throttle transitions.   I added a G-2 throttle and it improved things but still not near as controllable as I would like. 
 
I recently did the APS adjustment and it made a very noticeable improvement. Well worth doing in my book.  
 
Removing and re-installing the body work necessary to tip the tank forward took more time than the simple adjustment procedure.  
 
Go for it!
Bill
 
 
 
Would Bill or anyone else who has done it like to post some instructions on the necessary steps, including 'removal of bodywork'.   That's the bit that intimidates me somewhat, but I like the thought of the improvement once the APS is tweaked.   Thank you all...

Riding a fully-farkled 2019 MT-09 Tracer 900 GT from my bayside home in South East Queensland, Australia.   

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Would Bill or anyone else who has done it like to post some instructions on the necessary steps, including 'removal of bodywork'.   That's the bit that intimidates me somewhat, but I like the thought of the improvement once the APS is tweaked.   Thank you all...
Adjustment procedure HERE. You need to remove enough bodywork to be able to lift the rear of the tank. THIS will help.
Thank you!   Reading further into this seemingly-useful procedure it is clear that the result of doing this adjustment is a somewhat smoother throttle response.   Is it in fact any smoother than merely going into B mode temporarily (for as long as needed)?   I always engage B mode when entering my driveway to the garage, which involves a sharp but low-speed right turn in the narrow road outside, against adverse camber and uphill.   Nightmare with a jerky throttle - but B mode makes it smooth and comfortable.   
LATER EDIT/ ADD-ON...   Again, thank you - I've just scrolled through the pix referred and it all looks clear, but also a lot of tricky work!   I think I'll stay with my Mode B solution, as in STD the throttle response is not that snatchy.   But I have to say as always when viewing pix of the innards of our (and other modern) motorcycles that I am deeply impressed at what goes into the design, manufacture, and assembly of these machines. 

Riding a fully-farkled 2019 MT-09 Tracer 900 GT from my bayside home in South East Queensland, Australia.   

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Thank you!   Reading further into this seemingly-useful procedure it is clear that the result of doing this adjustment is a somewhat smoother throttle response. Is it in fact any smoother than merely going into B mode temporarily (for as long as needed)?   I always engage B mode when entering my driveway to the garage, which involves a sharp but low-speed right turn in the narrow road outside, against adverse camber and uphill.   Nightmare with a jerky throttle - but B mode makes it smooth and comfortable.  
Many on here found this procedure helped smooth out the throttle, regardless of the mode... so you can try that first. May I suggest that you also reach out to Kevin Hope out your way in Australia. He is the name behind the Kev O2 Module and now offers ECU flashing service. You could get the module or flash the ECU. I will PM you.
Ta!

Riding a fully-farkled 2019 MT-09 Tracer 900 GT from my bayside home in South East Queensland, Australia.   

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Wordsmith and Kimmie
Let us know if you fiddle with the settings, it would be good to know what difference they make for the Australian tune.
 
The American tune is handicapped by catering to emissions regulations and lower quality gasoline, hence their complaints of snatchy throttle.
 
My Australian 2016 model's throttle is "buttery smooth" at low speeds in all modes. Normal 98 RON fuel.
(compared to previous sportbikes with carburettors)
 
I determined that the only reason for mine to get an ECU flash would be to remove any top speed limit or changing exhaust.
 
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Wordsmith and Kimmie Let us know if you fiddle with the settings, it would be good to know what difference they make for the Australian tune.
 
The American tune is handicapped by catering to emissions regulations and lower quality gasoline, hence their complaints of snatchy throttle.
 
My Australian 2016 model's throttle is "buttery smooth" at low speeds in all modes. Normal 98 RON fuel.
(compared to previous sportbikes with carburettors)
 
I determined that the only reason for mine to get an ECU flash would be to remove any top speed limit or changing exhaust.

'Buttery smooth' sounds good, Robert!   Have you made any adjustments to this APS thingy?   My 2016 is mostly pretty smooth too: 'buttery' I'm not sure about (maybe margarine?) so I'm not in a hurry to undertake a lot of dismembering for maybe a minimal if any benefit.    Let me know pls.

Riding a fully-farkled 2019 MT-09 Tracer 900 GT from my bayside home in South East Queensland, Australia.   

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my US bike(and many other US bikes it seems)was set at 17 and 16 before I dropped it to 14 and 13...
 
If your numbers are close to 14 by just seeing what the dashboard shows I wouldn't worry too much about adjusting the APS/TPS
2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp
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No two bikes are exactly alike. If your throttle response is smooth enough for you, no need to try to adjust the APS. The numbers on my gauge did not match the manual, so I just guessed and moved the APS in the direction of lower numbers even though the gauge didn't change values. I found that by softening up the on-throttle response in A mode, B mode also softened up enough to actually be usable in slippery/wet road conditions. You should mark the original position of the APS and note the original value on the gauge so that you can either put it back to the original position, or maybe, only part way closer to original position.
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