Coop Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 How is the best way to get power to the front of the bike? The plan is to put my relay under seat and run wires to the front for a horn upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wordsmith Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 Unless you intend fitting an unusual type of horn, the easiest way by far is simply to access the aux plugs under the screen and various plates there. Plenty of pix and advice on how-to here. Riding a fully-farkled 2019 MT-09 Tracer 900 GT from my bayside home in South East Queensland, Australia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugie Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 9 hours ago, Coop said: How is the best way to get power to the front of the bike? The plan is to put my relay under seat and run wires to the front for a horn upgrade. Not sure if you've already settled on a horn but If you go with the sound bomb mini it is a straight swap without requiring any wiring changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 15 hours ago, Coop said: How is the best way to get power to the front of the bike? The plan is to put my relay under seat and run wires to the front for a horn upgrade. If you’re installing a powerful horn, then that’s the best way. If it were me, I’d raise the tank and secure it to the main wiring harness all the way toward the front. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chitown Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 (edited) What's the draw? The stock horn wiring and fuse is good for 3A and the acc connections 2A. I don't recommend swapping to higher rated fuses as a general rule but others have done so with ok results. If those don't work, relay under the seat, and as mentioned above just piggyback wiring with the harness. If you think you might need more power in the future can consider adding a block front or rear. Edited August 6, 2019 by chitown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 6, 2019 Author Share Posted August 6, 2019 7 hours ago, wordsmith said: Unless you intend fitting an unusual type of horn, the easiest way by far is simply to access the aux plugs under the screen and various plates there. Plenty of pix and advice on how-to here. Those plugs are good for 18 amps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 6, 2019 Author Share Posted August 6, 2019 1 hour ago, skipperT said: If you’re installing a powerful horn, then that’s the best way. If it were me, I’d raise the tank and secure it to the main wiring harness all the way toward the front. -Skip Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 6, 2019 Author Share Posted August 6, 2019 1 hour ago, chitown said: What's the draw? The stock horn wiring and fuse is good for 3A and the acc connections 2A. I don't recommend swapping to higher rated fuses as a general rule but others have done so with ok results. If those don't work, relay under the seat, and as mentioned above just piggyback wiring with the harness. If you think you might need more power in the future can consider adding a block front or rear. I'm using a Stebel and it draws 18 amps. If you have ever hit a buzzard coming off a carcass, you know why I need a very strong horn. Sorry for all the dumb questions. I just need to man up and start taking off plastic. It took a couple of times with my ST to get past the cup stage and put it all in a pile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfifer Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 Coop, Answering your question but not directly. I have just fitted a Denali Sound Bomb which like your Steibel pulls a lot of current. With the seats off you will see a lot of space between the "plastic," and the frame of the bike --- in the rider's seat area. After doing the wiring I put the Type 86 relay in there --- you will need to use a relay. So --- I ran a wire, to from the switched positive to the existing horn, along the side of the tank tucked down into the plastic. There is one button head screw up at the rider's seat area holding the panel on. Take the screw out and it will let you ease the plastic panel out a little. The horn positive operates the relay coil. You will need to take wires from both 12v and -ve of the battery to the relay. Both capable of handling 18amps. You will need to take -ve from the battery to your Steibel AND the output 12v from the relay. Both wires capable of handling the 18amps. Google type 86 relay for a circuit drawing. The 12v and -ve can be run to the Steibel in the "same channel" that the 12v feed got to the relay. Alternatively take 12v and -ve 18amp wires up to the space behind the screen and locate the relay in there. Put a 20amp fuse in the 12v feed to the relay. Lots of words -- easier in practice.! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 7, 2019 Author Share Posted August 7, 2019 Quote 7 hours ago, flyfifer said: Coop, Answering your question but not directly. I have just fitted a Denali Sound Bomb which like your Steibel pulls a lot of current. With the seats off you will see a lot of space between the "plastic," and the frame of the bike --- in the rider's seat area. After doing the wiring I put the Type 86 relay in there --- you will need to use a relay. So --- I ran a wire, to from the switched positive to the existing horn, along the side of the tank tucked down into the plastic. There is one button head screw up at the rider's seat area holding the panel on. Take the screw out and it will let you ease the plastic panel out a little. The horn positive operates the relay coil. You will need to take wires from both 12v and -ve of the battery to the relay. Both capable of handling 18amps. You will need to take -ve from the battery to your Steibel AND the output 12v from the relay. Both wires capable of handling the 18amps. Google type 86 relay for a circuit drawing. The 12v and -ve can be run to the Steibel in the "same channel" that the 12v feed got to the relay. Alternatively take 12v and -ve 18amp wires up to the space behind the screen and locate the relay in there. Put a 20amp fuse in the 12v feed to the relay. Lots of words -- easier in practice.! Thanks, I was hoping I could get there behind the plastic. That sounds like a good place for the relay as well as it would open up some under seat space for storage and the 85,86 and 87 wires could be shorter. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suu Kyi Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 21 hours ago, bugie said: Not sure if you've already settled on a horn but If you go with the sound bomb mini it is a straight swap without requiring any wiring changes. Hi, When you say Sound-bomb Mini, I assume you mean the Denali? If so was it fairly easy to install and are you happy with the result? Louder than stock? Different tone? Etc.............Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugie Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 1 hour ago, Suu Kyi said: Hi, When you say Sound-bomb Mini, I assume you mean the Denali? If so was it fairly easy to install and are you happy with the result? Louder than stock? Different tone? Etc.............Thanks. Yes I was referring to the Denali Soundbomb mini. It's super easy to install (approx 2 mins). Literally, just requires you to unscrew the OEM horn, unplug the 2 wires, replug the wires into the Denali and screw the horn on the bracket. In terms of volume I would say it is NOT significantly louder than the OEM one but is much deeper so it means other road users hear it a lot better. Cars wouldn't bat an eyelid when I used to beep the horn but always turn to look with the Denali 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wordsmith Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 My Stebel Magnum horns have behaved in exactly the same way, as have too-close car-drivers and others! Easiest add-on ever. Riding a fully-farkled 2019 MT-09 Tracer 900 GT from my bayside home in South East Queensland, Australia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfifer Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Coop, The prime reason I put my relay in the seat area is my ",behind the screen" space is full of Garmin "charger" and my "smart fuse box" which feeds the Garmin, Hella Socket and Led lights. Sounds like you have a plan. Have you decided where to mount the Bomb --- they are heavy brutes ! Mine is mounted on my Givi crash bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member roadrash83 Posted August 7, 2019 Supporting Member Share Posted August 7, 2019 5 hours ago, bugie said: Yes I was referring to the Denali Soundbomb mini. It's super easy to install (approx 2 mins). Literally, just requires you to unscrew the OEM horn, unplug the 2 wires, replug the wires into the Denali and screw the horn on the bracket. In terms of volume I would say it is NOT significantly louder than the OEM one but is much deeper so it means other road users hear it a lot better. Cars wouldn't bat an eyelid when I used to beep the horn but always turn to look with the Denali Hello bugie Did you have any clearance problems ( front fender on full compression) with Denali Soundbomb mini? Could you post a picture of what it looks like mounted.... Thanks! He who dies with the most toys wins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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