Quick question about MCCruise

[betoney]

12 minutes ago, dazzler24 said:

I agree but I think it's important to say and perhaps clarify that there are two distinct parts to do after the Cruise installation.

1. Throttle position sensor Calibration & Testing.

2. Diagnostic Mode Testing.

The calibration for this iteration of McCruise is as per the video and the six tests mentioned in the documentation dated 1 May 2019, one of which has the option of having the bike in gear up on the centre stand are just that - electrical connection tests - and not part of the actual calibration procedure. 

Those six tests could be omitted completely (while not recommended) but in no way impact on the calibration of the cruise control - for the current version at least.

 

Agreed, they must have changed the procedure.  I have not seen that video before and don't remember doing anything similar but my unit is over 3 years old now.   

[2and3cylinders]

I guess I have not yet done electrical tests 3~6!?   I've got to read more!  I'm going to start over using the video and recheck all the instructions!

[2and3cylinders]

Because like many men my age who when young (and of course still have but was finally diagnosed in my late 30's) "had" ADD and OCD & Dyslexia when these disabilities usually were misdiagnosed if at all and undefined, let alone treated, I unknowingly developed my own learning and coping strategies and mechanisms.  Unfortunately these issues and the very unnecessary lack of confidence they still cause in my abilities and particularly my memory (which is well founded, even more so as time passes), I must have run the calibration and diagnostic modes 6 or 7 times!  I probably did them correctly the first time but without being able to immediately validate this with a test ride, I kept repeating the processes.  😞  I still couldn't accomplish the tests 5 & 6 Dazzler posted (which I could not find in any of the instructions I received) the latter either on the center stand or riding, or maybe I didn't activate diagnostic mode correctly in my haste to finally make a test run before it got dark and cold last evening.

But Eureka!  I just have done most everything correctly because the McCruise seem to function properly despite only being able to run around and up and down my immediate quiet little 1950's suburban neighborhood and street during the very brief test ride I managed to sneak in.  The Decel / Resume button was a bit awkward to reach but that could have been due to me being hyper cautious in my environment while operating / testing the control buttons, the brakes and the clutch while wearing brand new and stiff waterproof winter gloves

I can't wait to go on a decent, extended test ride (and just to ride at all) but the forecast does not look promising for the next week after of course being frequently unusually nice the prior 3 weeks.

Thanks for all your help and I'll report back!

[2and3cylinders]

NOTE:  The below post is out of order, as somehow it did not get submitted and was actual a status report prior to my above post...

I finally got my McCruise installed, calibrated and static tested last night.  It caused the bike to do some really weird things, including not want to start after "calibration" for the static operability testing but finally did catch and run.  Seemed to go up in 200 RPM increments after the  initial 2 or 3 SET presses then on suddenly rev up like 600 rpm.  Then it was hesitant to drop down with RES pushes.  So I re-did the cal process and the following procedure and think things are OK but weather and time means not test ride yet (maybe tomorrow).

I also tried testing operation in gear on the centerstand but it didn't work at all.  Is that normal?

Dazzler, here are pics of my install and how I finally positioned the Slim switch with my 3/16" thick spacer and clear VHB DS tape.  I tried 3M's highest tensile VHB tape but was not impressed.  I think St. Gobain's mounting tapes are stronger and definitely are less expensive.

BTW, As long as I had the tank off I removed the airbox (and took care of the air filter) and checked valve lash (which was pretty close to where I'd set it only 11,000 miles ago) because it's going out of YES warranty late this June (and all the valves were VERY tight at 24,000 miles).  I'd already plumbed TB vacuum port extension tubes so TB sync can be checked without removing anything, and they were still spot on even up at 5,000 RPM.  Changed the plugs from the non-projected iridium (which looked perfect) back to the OEM spec conventional CPR9EA-9 but used indexing washers on #1 and 3 to orient them so the ground strap was at 12 O'clock (#2 was already close) and not masking the center electrode from the intake valves.

[2and3cylinders]

Dazzler,

Here are some pics of my TB vacuum port sync hose installation and routing.  I did this back in 2017, and it makes checking TB sync a breeze.  The zip ties are a belt & suspenders means of fixing the hoses in their stowed position.  Unobtrusive and simple.  I checked them again as long as I was at along with the valve lash.  an you say close enough for the girls we go out with?  I think you can.  (Mr. Rogers)

Also here's pics of the final CC install and the Z brackets that connect the lower screen support tube through rod to the reinforced upper tube with the bicycle QR axle doubling as the screen height adjuster,  Can you say "rock solid"  I think you can.

[dazzler24]

25 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Dazzler,

Here are some pics of my TB vacuum port sync hose installation and routing.  I did this back in 2017, and it makes checking TB sync a breeze.  The zip ties are a belt & suspenders means of fixing the hoses in their stowed position.  Unobtrusive and simple.

 

Thanks for the info.  I'll probably follow suit the next time I've got the tank off.

Cheers.

[dazzler24]

15 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I still couldn't accomplish the tests 5 & 6 Dazzler posted (which I could not find in any of the instructions I received) the latter either on the center stand or riding, or maybe I didn't activate diagnostic mode correctly in my haste to finally make a test run before it got dark and cold last evening.

At the end of the day, those tests aren't that important IMHO.  They are just pre-check 'insurance' to ensure that you've wired it correctly and all of the switches are working as they should before you ride.

But as you've indicated, you have gone for the ride and all seems well so I think you can forget about those tests now and just enjoy your new cruise control 🙂  Good work.

[betoney]

On 3/18/2020 at 4:18 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

Also here's pics of the final CC install

When you finally get out for a ride to test the MCCruise here is a tip. (this might be common knowledge but in case it isn't, here you go)  A quick press on the +/- buttons will change the speed in 1mph increments, a slightly longer press will change in 5mph increments.

[kmev]

58 minutes ago, betoney said:

When you finally get out for a ride to test the MCCruise here is a tip. (this might be common knowledge but in case it isn't, here you go)  A quick press on the +/- buttons will change the speed in 1mph increments, a slightly longer press will change in 5mph increments.

I have 16,000 miles with one, and I did  not know about the long press. Thanks!

[2and3cylinders]

Artie would of said Very Interesting!

[draco_1967]

23 hours ago, betoney said:

When you finally get out for a ride to test the MCCruise here is a tip. (this might be common knowledge but in case it isn't, here you go)  A quick press on the +/- buttons will change the speed in 1mph increments, a slightly longer press will change in 5mph increments.

I had no idea either. I had the FJR with MCCruise for 30k miles, and now 1800 on the tracer. I will be trying this next time I'm out. 

[2and3cylinders]

Long press will not bump mph x 5 but it will accelerate and decelerate gradually as long as a button is held.

Settled on using the clutch and modulating the throttle to deactivate, often while or up shifting,  leaving the CC on (otherwise it's a pain and I'll forget to turn it back on).  Will try tapping rear brake next ride but using the front brake is too abrupt.

Take care all!

[draco_1967]

10 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Long press will not bump mph x 5 but it will accelerate and decelerate gradually as long as a button is held.

Settled on using the clutch and modulating the throttle to deactivate, often while or up shifting,  leaving the CC on (otherwise it's a pain and I'll forget to turn it back on).  Will try tapping rear brake next ride but using the front brake is too abrupt.

Take care all!

Yep, I found this to be true as well. It probably does 1mph per second pressed.

[betoney]

16 minutes ago, draco_1967 said:

Yep, I found this to be true as well. It probably does 1mph per second pressed.

So it is sounding like everyone is experiencing something different.  If you press and hold for a second it increases 1mph, mine does 5mph and 2and3cylinders says his will continually accelerate with the button pressed?

[draco_1967]

8 hours ago, betoney said:

So it is sounding like everyone is experiencing something different.  If you press and hold for a second it increases 1mph, mine does 5mph and 2and3cylinders says his will continually accelerate with the button pressed?

My experience is similar to 2and3cylinders: one short press ups the speed 1mph (or 2 if you have the computer set to do that). Holding the button increases the speed for as long as it is held (at a rate of about 1mph per second held).