Quick question about MCCruise

[betoney]

Since installing the MCCruise I have had no need to disconnect or replace the battery.  If the battery is disconnected does it lose its calibration?  If I replace my battery I would just hate to get the bike put back together and take off on a trip and then find that the cruise doesn't work and needs to be re-calibrated.

[vijay]

Mine did.   About 80% of the time the bike would just die after engaging CC.  I contracted MCCruise and they told me to recalibrate and even emailed the specific pages (in case I lost mine) from their installation manual.   Took me about 5-6 minutes to re-read the directions and then recalibrate.  The directions to recalibrate are very specific and very easy to complete.  

[betoney]

35 minutes ago, vijay said:

Mine did.   About 80% of the time the bike would just die after engaging CC.  I contracted MCCruise and they told me to recalibrate and even emailed the specific pages (in case I lost mine) from their installation manual.   Took me about 5-6 minutes to re-read the directions and then recalibrate.  The directions to recalibrate are very specific and very easy to complete.  

Thanks.  I was hoping it had some sort of solid state or flash memory but no worries, its easy enough to recalibrate.

[draco_1967]

I didn't have to recalibrate mine, but it was only disconnected for a short time.

[dazzler24]

As I was finding it hard to understand why the settings in a device such as this would not be saved to NVRAM (EEPROM) and not be lost if the battery was disconnected, I decided to get clarification straight from the horse's mouth and emailed McCruise.

Here's the response: -

Quote

The crucial parameters required for each cruise control setup ARE saved and are non volatile – disconnecting the battery has no effect.

Hope that clarifies the original question.

Tony went on to add the following but this must apply to some other bikes that require/have a battery earth lead connection.

Quote

However, if someone forgets to reconnect the battery negative lead for the cruise control, the cruise can get limited ground from other sources, the LED backlights will come on it and may even work in diagnostic mode, but WILL NOT engage in service.  This is the most common problem we face after bikes have been put up over winter = people forget to reconnect the MCCruise ground wire to the battery.

I'm wondering if vijay's issue was unrelated and a new calibration 'fixed' whatever issue was causing that problem?

[betoney]

1 minute ago, dazzler24 said:

As I was finding it hard to understand why the settings in a device such as this would not be saved to NVRAM (EEPROM) and not be lost if the battery was disconnected, I decided to get clarification straight from the horse's mouth and emailed McCruise.

Here's the response: -

Hope that clarifies the original question.

Tony went on to add the following but this must apply to some other bikes that require/have a battery earth lead connection.

I'm wondering if vijay's issue was unrelated and a new calibration 'fixed' whatever issue was causing that problem?

@dazzler24 - Thank You👍

[fddriver2]

From me to Tony at Mccruise.

Hi again Tony. 

I have 2 questions. 

When I eventually have to replace the battery will I have to recalibrate the CC? 

If I have the bike dyno tuned will I have to recalibrate the cc? 

Thank you in advance

From Tony to me.

 

"The MCCruise computer retains its core memory even if power is disconnected.  The dyno tune will not alter anything – unless you suddenly deliver extraordinarily different engine performance somehow.  Even then, if you tell us what it is doing that you don’t like, we can tell you how to modify the computer’s parameters to deliver what you want."

FWIW

 

[2and3cylinders]

I finally got my McCruise installed, calibrated and static tested last night.  It caused the bike to do some really weird things, including not want to start after "calibration" for the static operability testing but finally did catch and run.  Seemed to go up in 200 RPM increments after the  initial 2 or 3 SET presses then on suddenly rev up like 600 rpm.  Then it was hesitant to drop down with RES pushes.  So I re-did the cal process and the following procedure and think things are OK but weather and time means not test ride yet (maybe tomorrow).

I also tried testing operation in gear on the centerstand but it didn't work at all.  Is that normal?

Dazzler, here are pics of my install and how I finally positioned the Slim switch with my 3/16" thick spacer and clear VHB DS tape.  I tried 3M's highest tensile VHB tape but was not impressed.  I think St. Gobain's mounting tapes are stronger and definitely are less expensive.

BTW, As long as I had the tank off I removed the airbox (and took care of the air filter) and checked valve lash (which was pretty close to where I'd set it only 11,000 miles ago) because it's going out of YES warranty late this June (and all the valves were VERY tight at 24,000 miles).  I'd already plumbed TB vacuum port extension tubes so TB sync can be checked without removing anything, and they were still spot on even up at 5,000 RPM.  Changed the plugs from the non-projected iridium (which looked perfect) back to the OEM spec conventional CPR9EA-9 but used indexing washers on #1 and 3 to orient them so the ground strap was at 12 O'clock (#2 was already close) and not masking the center electrode from the intake valves.

[dazzler24]

5 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Dazzler, here are pics of my install and how I finally positioned the Slim switch with my 3/16" thick spacer and clear VHB DS tape.  I tried 3M's highest tensile VHB tape but was not impressed.  I think St. Gobain's mounting tapes are stronger and definitely are less expensive.

Looks good.  If I had kept mine, I definately would have moved it to that position.   Good work.

7 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I'd already plumbed TB vacuum port extension tubes so TB sync can be checked without removing anything

I like the idea of doing that as well.  Doesn't help if you've got to make an adjustment of course but at least they can be checked without dismantling everything.

[2and3cylinders]

Thanks! I'm a little worried and going out to check now if the 2-wire loom to the #1 coil is adequately supported above the valve cover, because it sure gets hot up there.

I'll try to get you some pics of where I stow the 3 vacuum tubes but I zip tie the ends together and stuff them up vertically with their open ends up inside the left front frame down tube, held in position with 3 reusable zip ties.

Am I correct the CC will not work in gear on the centerstand?  Or has anyone tried it on a pre-2018?

[dazzler24]

14 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Thanks! I'm a little worried and going out to check now if the 2-wire loom to the #1 coil is adequately supported above the valve cover, because it sure gets hot up there.

I'll try to get you some pics of where I stow the 3 vacuum tubes but I zip tie the ends together and stuff them up vertically with their open ends up inside the left front frame down tube, held in position with 3 reusable zip ties.

Am I correct the CC will not work in gear on the centerstand?  Or has anyone tried it on a pre-2018?

There is this warning in the Set up and User manual :-

I know when I set mine up I just went through all of the setup tests in the shed and tested the cruise function on the road.  I didn't attempt to engage CC on the centre stand.

[betoney]

40 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I finally got my McCruise installed, calibrated and static tested last night.  It caused the bike to do some really weird things, including not want to start after "calibration"

I also tried testing operation in gear on the centerstand but it didn't work at all.  Is that normal?

I'm kind of confused by this. 

It worked - kind of - during calibration but then wouldn't operate on the centerstand?  Running it on the centerstand is how you get it calibrated.  If I remember correctly, you shift into 3rd gear and rev it up to 35mph or higher and then calibrate through specific button presses.  In other words, to accomplish the setup calibration, it HAS to work on the centerstand, or am I mis-understanding something?

[dazzler24]

32 minutes ago, betoney said:

I'm kind of confused by this. 

It worked - kind of - during calibration but then wouldn't operate on the centerstand?  Running it on the centerstand is how you get it calibrated.  If I remember correctly, you shift into 3rd gear and rev it up to 35mph or higher and then calibrate through specific button presses.  In other words, to accomplish the setup calibration, it HAS to work on the centerstand, or am I mis-understanding something?

Has the setup changed from when you did yours I wonder betoney?

This video below of the calibration setup done by none other than Tony Guymer himself was how I did mine and I never put the bike into gear at any stage in the garage.

However the speed signal test (No.6 below), I did while riding the bike but it does refer to an option of having the bike on the centre stand.  Perhaps this is where the confusion may arise but is only a test and not part of the calibration so again, was calibration done differently in earlier iterations?

[betoney]

12 minutes ago, dazzler24 said:

Has the setup changed from when you did yours I wonder betoney?

This video below of the calibration setup done by none other than Tony Guymer himself was how I did mine and I never put the bike into gear at any stage in the garage.

However the speed signal test (No.6 below), I did while riding the bike but it does refer to an option of having the bike on the centre stand.  Perhaps this is where the confusion may arise but is only a test and not part of the calibration so again, was calibration done differently in earlier iterations?

 

 

Yes, I wonder if something changed, possibly due to bikes throwing a code when running in gear on the centerstand??  I have done mine twice in the 3 years that I have owned it and everything was done in the garage on the centerstand, at no time did I ever do any setup or calibration by riding the bike.

 

[dazzler24]

3 minutes ago, betoney said:

 at no time did I ever do any setup or calibration by riding the bike.

I agree but I think it's important to say and perhaps clarify that there are two distinct parts to do after the Cruise installation.

1. Throttle position sensor Calibration & Testing.

2. Diagnostic Mode Testing.

The calibration for this iteration of McCruise is as per the video and the six tests mentioned in the documentation dated 1 May 2019, one of which has the option of having the bike in gear up on the centre stand are just that - electrical connection tests - and not part of the actual calibration procedure. 

Those six tests could be omitted completely (while not recommended) but in no way impact on the calibration of the cruise control - for the current version at least.