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Recommended Suspension Settings | 220lb rider


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5 hours ago, StealthAu said:

Have you considered getting just a spring for the rear shock? It is cheap and will give you 20,000km or so to look for a new shock. 

 

I did indeed consider that, and asked them about it.  They said:

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Out back, you're going to need a 750 lb/spring at a minimum (stock is 550 lb/in).  The trouble here is that there is no quick/easy fix.  While it's technically possible to swap the spring out, the factory damping has a hard enough time controlling the 550 spring.  Going up 36% really puts a strain on the rebound damping.  My best advice would be to invest in a new shock that is custom built for the heavier spring.  Most brands are off the shelf with somewhat limited spring rate availabilities (depending on model).  However, we can build whatever you'd need with Penske.  It's not the least expensive route, but it's the best we can offer you given the situation.

11 hours ago, betoney said:

Just the correct spring rate will make a nice difference. 👍

What oil level does Stoltec recommend?  I have always read that 150mm was correct for this bike - with the recommended springs there should be no fear of bottoming.

The service manual for the GT says 175mm.  Stoltec said to use 140mm - a pretty substantial difference, which I actually confirmed with them to be sure.  

I'm curious how the oil level impacts the shock performance, to be honest.  I understand how rebound and compression damping work with the valves, but don't really know how the oil level impacts things. 

 

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13 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

I'm curious how the oil level impacts the shock performance, to be honest.  I understand how rebound and compression damping work with the valves, but don't really know how the oil level impacts things.

I copied this from a motocross article but the principle is the same.

"What is the effect of changing oil height? Adding oil to your forks reduces the air volume. Since air is compressible, a smaller airspace is harder to compress than a larger airspace, which results in a stiffer fork. Since the compression of the airspace is gradual, lessening the airspace will be felt by the rider from the middle of the fork’s stroke to the point of bottoming. In essence, adding oil to your forks makes them stiffer from the midpoint on. The obvious corollary is that when you take oil out of your forks, you make them softer from the midstroke on. Adding or subtracting oil has a negligible effect on the first four inches of travel".

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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4 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

 

I did indeed consider that, and asked them about it.  They said:

Out back, you're going to need a 750 lb/spring at a minimum (stock is 550 lb/in).  The trouble here is that there is no quick/easy fix.  While it's technically possible to swap the spring out, the factory damping has a hard enough time controlling the 550 spring.  Going up 36% really puts a strain on the rebound damping.  My best advice would be to invest in a new shock that is custom built for the heavier spring.  Most brands are off the shelf with somewhat limited spring rate availabilities (depending on model).  However, we can build whatever you'd need with Penske.  It's not the least expensive route, but it's the best we can offer you given the situation.

 

Do you mostly ride two up? 

750 lb/inch equals 130nm/mm. That is a serious spring, even for you at 300lbs... They are definitely right regarding rebound damping on stock shock, it won't do squat with that spring.  

I got a 105nm/mm for mine, I'm 220lbs. No preload for just me. 

Me and a passenger, 400lbs total, it feels real nice. Rebound damping works with this spring, but will likely run out of adjustment around 20,000km. 

 

Issue with only doing the front is, it will emphasis how shit the rear is.  

 

 

Edited by StealthAu
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9 hours ago, StealthAu said:

 

Do you mostly ride two up? 

750 lb/inch equals 130nm/mm. That is a serious spring, even for you at 300lbs... They are definitely right regarding rebound damping on stock shock, it won't do squat with that spring.  

I got a 105nm/mm for mine, I'm 220lbs. No preload for just me. 

Me and a passenger, 400lbs total, it feels real nice. Rebound damping works with this spring, but will likely run out of adjustment around 20,000km. 

 

Issue with only doing the front is, it will emphasis how shit the rear is.  

I only rarely ride two up, though I do take a bunch of longer trips packing gear, and push the bike really aggressively.

Where did you get the spring for the rear?  Realistically, I'm just not going to be able to afford a whole new shock any time soon ($1000usd -> $1350cad; ouch), so I'd be open to getting a stiffer spring, even if not as stiff as they recommend.  As it stands now, I can bottom the stock shock out *hard*, which is both pretty painful and also super sketchy if it happens at speed in a corner. 

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4 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

I only rarely ride two up, though I do take a bunch of longer trips packing gear, and push the bike really aggressively.

Where did you get the spring for the rear?  Realistically, I'm just not going to be able to afford a whole new shock any time soon ($1000usd -> $1350cad; ouch), so I'd be open to getting a stiffer spring, even if not as stiff as they recommend.  As it stands now, I can bottom the stock shock out *hard*, which is both pretty painful and also super sketchy if it happens at speed in a corner. 

 

I bought mine from Brooks Suspension in the UK. It is a Ktech spring, you will likely have a Ktech dealer closer to you. 


Yamaha Tracer 900GT K-Tech Shock Spring (18>) from the UK's leading...

 

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9 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

I only rarely ride two up, though I do take a bunch of longer trips packing gear, and push the bike really aggressively.

Where did you get the spring for the rear?  Realistically, I'm just not going to be able to afford a whole new shock any time soon ($1000usd -> $1350cad; ouch), so I'd be open to getting a stiffer spring, even if not as stiff as they recommend.  As it stands now, I can bottom the stock shock out *hard*, which is both pretty painful and also super sketchy if it happens at speed in a corner. 

I had a shock made for me in the UK (Nitron) and had it delivered, all in around ~$840CAD. That same shock would have cost me nearly $150-$200CAD more had I gone to their USA authorized shop/reseller Fast Bike Industries. Going overseas not always more expensive.

Another option is looking for a local suspension shop and getting them to upgrade your existing hardware. Accelerated Technologies in Ontario has a great reputation for suspension work. We had a member on here who had them upgrade OE shock on an earlier FJ (link to thread). There has to be a shop out your way somewhere, or give AT a call and see what they quote you. $1,300CAD for a shock sounds expensive for what you're looking to fix on your bike, but yeah... if you want a fully adjustable unit with a remote... it will probably get you up there.

Anyway... just some thoughts to help you take a hammer to that piggy bank.

Edited by piotrek

canada.gif.22c5f8bdb95643b878d06c336f5fe29f.gif

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On 6/25/2020 at 8:20 PM, piotrek said:

I had a shock made for me in the UK (Nitron) and had it delivered, all in around ~$840CAD. That same shock would have cost me nearly $150-$200CAD more had I gone to their USA authorized shop/reseller Fast Bike Industries. Going overseas not always more expensive.

Another option is looking for a local suspension shop and getting them to upgrade your existing hardware. Accelerated Technologies in Ontario has a great reputation for suspension work. We had a member on here who had them upgrade OE shock on an earlier FJ (link to thread). There has to be a shop out your way somewhere, or give AT a call and see what they quote you. $1,300CAD for a shock sounds expensive for what you're looking to fix on your bike, but yeah... if you want a fully adjustable unit with a remote... it will probably get you up there.

Anyway... just some thoughts to help you take a hammer to that piggy bank.

Overseas is in fact often cheaper - I find I can get things from the UK faster and cheaper than from the US, more often than not.  

Even ~850 is enough that it's just not going to happen in the near future, but I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go @StealthAu's route and just grab a spring.  Won't be ideal, but for ~$120 it should be Good Enough For Now, and I suspect I'd be able to sell it whenever I do end up getting a custom shock.  The biggest they've got is the 105n/mm version, which would be 600lb/in, not even close to what Stoltec recommended but still a fair bit stiffer than the stock spring.  

Sadly, there simply are no local suspension shops.  Or rather, there are no local suspension shops that work on street bikes, weirdly enough - there's a few offroad shops for sure, but they all where very hesitant about getting involved with a street bike.  

 

That said, I'll shoot Accelerated Technologies an email, and see if they've got any advice there. 

 

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2 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

The biggest they've got is the 105n/mm version, which would be 600lb/in, not even close to what Stoltec recommended but still a fair bit stiffer than the stock spring.

You can also contact RaceTech and see if they have a spring in the right size. FortNine is a RaceTech reseller here. A replacement spring for my Nitron would be 6" x 2.29" (L x ID), for example... a standard size listed on the RaceTech website as SRSP 5815107. I could go up to 700lb/in according to their chart (SRSP 5815125). They confirmed this would be the spring series for my shock.

rtsprings.thumb.PNG.1cea22f1be80d80a787c2b884e180a3d.PNG

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25 minutes ago, piotrek said:

You can also contact RaceTech and see if they have a spring in the right size. FortNine is a RaceTech reseller here. A replacement spring for my Nitron would be 6" x 2.29" (L x ID), for example... a standard size listed on the RaceTech website as SRSP 5815107. I could go up to 700lb/in according to their chart (SRSP 5815125). They confirmed this would be the spring series for my shock.

rtsprings.thumb.PNG.1cea22f1be80d80a787c2b884e180a3d.PNG

 

You could likely find a stiffer spring that will fit the stock shock, but you are limited by the stock valving. 

105nm/mm is probably as far as you want to go. Rebound damping won't do anything with a 130nm/mm spring. 

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On 6/25/2020 at 1:09 PM, Wintersdark said:

I only rarely ride two up, though I do take a bunch of longer trips packing gear, and push the bike really aggressively.

Where did you get the spring for the rear?  Realistically, I'm just not going to be able to afford a whole new shock any time soon ($1000usd -> $1350cad; ouch), so I'd be open to getting a stiffer spring, even if not as stiff as they recommend.  As it stands now, I can bottom the stock shock out *hard*, which is both pretty painful and also super sketchy if it happens at speed in a corner. 

You might try Cogent Dynamics. They're located in North Carolina

I know they have built shocks for MT09's

 

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Still reading and working on items for the bike. Right now am focusing on windshield options and vibrations.

Thinking of the Yamaha touring screen (I’m 6’1, with short legs). Worried about catching side wind too much with anything bigger?

First service is Friday. Hoping throttle body sync helps vibes. Ordered grip puppies and R&G bar ends as well.

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46 minutes ago, Doehle said:

First service is Friday. Hoping throttle body sync helps vibes. Ordered grip puppies and R&G bar ends as well.

I would ask specifically about the TB sync, I haven't brought my bike to the dealer for service except the valve adjustment but several on here have reported that the TB sync was not done on the first service.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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On 7/1/2020 at 10:01 AM, betoney said:

I would ask specifically about the TB sync, I haven't brought my bike to the dealer for service except the valve adjustment but several on here have reported that the TB sync was not done on the first service.

It's supposed to be done, is on the service manual list, but yeah a lot of dealers skip it because it's very time consuming to pull all the plastics and *usually* not really necessary.  Except, of course, when it is.  I know mine was way out, and I bought it with them throwing in the first service for free (as it had 800kms on the clock already, being the demo model). 

 

 

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On 6/24/2020 at 8:19 AM, Wintersdark said:

Throttle body sync usually helps a lot there, but it's a kind of buzzy bike.  I'm really, really taken with Grip Puppies, personally - they do an excellent job of damping handlebar vibrations, and rubber footpegs help down low.  

I did the fill the bars with bbs and lead fishing weights. Helped some.

I also tried hang guards off and some large KLR650 bar end weights. Not a lot of difference.

it is a buzzy bike but so fun to ride.

 

 

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On 7/1/2020 at 10:01 AM, betoney said:

I would ask specifically about the TB sync, I haven't brought my bike to the dealer for service except the valve adjustment but several on here have reported that the TB sync was not done on the first service.

I got pictures of mine. Was exactly the same for all 3. No adjustment needed. 

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