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wessie

accessory fly leads under instrument cluster

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a post about the LED lights for the hand guards led to this fitting guide - the guide is specific to the LEDs but the first few pictures in Section 2 are a great guide on how to locate the fly leads used for the Yamaha accessories. These multi-pin connectors will have a variety of wires that may be switched with the ignition or the headlamp circuit.
 
The fasteners highlighted in red on picture 3 are the type where you push down the centre to unlock the fastener.
 
I have not copied and pasted the text or pictures for copyright reasons. If you access the leads then please take some pictures and post them here to help others. Also, if you find local sources for the mating connectors please post the details.
 
If the website goes offline please let me know as I have a cached copy in pdf format. 
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Aux_DC.jpg
 
I added my TomTom rider today.
 
I found 4 auxiliary DC connectors behind the windscreen. 3 are 'spares'
 
2 spares are MT-090 with "blank" male plastic connectors and solid waterproof seals for the wires. You would need the male spades, a specialized crimp tool, and waterproof grommets.
Cycle Terminals has these. A complete connector (plastic, metal male spades, and rubber grommets) is their part number Male MT-090-2B
 
1 spare (black) and 1 used (ivory for 12v cigarette lighter socket) square connectors.
 
 
 
Each of these connectors has a brown positive (+) and black (ground/-) wire running to them.
 
 
 

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Nope, for the OEM heat grips both left and right connections are behind the fuse box located behind the right side panel (while sitting on the bike)...

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I've done almost the same thing yesterday.
I didn't buy the male connector though, because the wires from the Tomtom rider were soldered solid. I could just plug the wires in and seal the wires in the empty male connector with the rubber seals that were already in them. :)

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Do you know what style of plug is on the two non-MT-090 connectors?

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I used one of the two white spare connectors to connect my Garmin 660. I was going to clip the factory connector and put in my own male/female ends. Then I noticed the soldered ends of the Garmin's power leads looked like they'd fit into the connector. I checked the polarity with my meter, and sure enough the soldered wire tips slid in there like they made to. A few wraps of tape to add some strength to the joint and I was all set.
 
Yeah, I know it was a shortcut, but it works and I didn't have to cut off the OEM connector. If it fails I'll do it right the next time.

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Aux_DC.jpg 
I added my TomTom rider today.
 
I found 4 auxiliary DC connectors behind the windscreen. 3 are 'spares'
 
2 spares are MT-090 with "blank" male plastic connectors and solid waterproof seals for the wires. You would need the male spades, a specialized crimp tool, and waterproof grommets.
Cycle Terminals has these. A complete connector (plastic, metal male spades, and rubber grommets) is their part number Male MT-090-2B
 

 
 

The terminals provided where not a match for the ones on the FJ. However the little bits that came can be used with the existing caps that are on the bike. Made wiring my heated grips and fog lights much easier. Didn't have to cut or mutilate and wires anywhere! 
 

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Aux_DC.jpg 
I added my TomTom rider today.
 
I found 4 auxiliary DC connectors behind the windscreen. 3 are 'spares'
 
2 spares are MT-090 with "blank" male plastic connectors and solid waterproof seals for the wires. You would need the male spades, a specialized crimp tool, and waterproof grommets.
Cycle Terminals has these. A complete connector (plastic, metal male spades, and rubber grommets) is their part number Male MT-090-2B
 

 
 

The terminals provided where not a match for the ones on the FJ. However the little bits that came can be used with the existing caps that are on the bike. Made wiring my heated grips and fog lights much easier. Didn't have to cut or mutilate and wires anywhere! 

I cheated: I bought the 2nd accessory jack and spliced into its wiring.  Nice switched power, no mutilating any wiring harnesses, plus I get the extra jack if I ever need it.

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Is there a way to figure how many amps you can run thru those extra terminals?
Each of those four terminals goes to a separate 2 amp fuse. I am going through this right now. I ordered the 18W Cree lights, which will be too much amperage for the auxiliary fuse (2amps), so I may put each light on a separate fuse and use one switch to actuate them. I will write a How To when I am done for future use. I will need 3 amps, so the 2 amp fuse will not work.
12v X (a)=36W, so 36/12=3.
Looks like a 5 amp extendaFuse on the 2 amp terminal will work, as the wires leading in also splice to a 7.5 amp fuse. More to come.
 
4106177.jpg
 
 
 

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Is there a way to figure how many amps you can run thru those extra terminals?
Each of those four terminals goes to a separate 2 amp fuse. I am going through this right now. I ordered the 18W Cree lights, which will be too much amperage for the auxiliary fuse (2amps), so I may put each light on a separate fuse and use one switch to actuate them. I will write a How To when I am done for future use. I will need 3 amps, so the 2 amp fuse will not work.
12v X (a)=36W, so 36/12=3.
Looks like a 5 amp extendaFuse on the 2 amp terminal will work, as the wires leading in also splice to a 7.5 amp fuse. More to come.
 
 
You're on the right track here. I have my LED driving lights AND Passport Radar Detector wired into the same add-a-circuit, which was tied into the 2amp aux fuse. I initially installed a 5amp fuse, which worked for about 10 minutes until it popped. I pulled that out, and installed a 7.5amp fuse and have been running both accessories without any issue since. 
 
 

 

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