RaYzerman

Welcome aboard!!

You got that right.... I had a GL once and know what air filter service is on that bike... so my buddy brings his GL over last week, we are changing out the rear shock (requires shelter and fuel tank removal). We did take the opportunity to dig deeper and change the air filter. No need to remind me not to buy a GL again. 😅

Lesson learned from previous bikes.... if the bolts are going into aluminum frame or engine mount, use anti-seize on the threads and reduce torque by 30% since it is now a lubricated thread. Original torques are likely specified for dry fasteners unless otherwise noted. Future removals will now be possible without damaging the aluminum threads......

Passing along a little experience with valve adjustments and I've done many on various bikes, FJR's mainly.... if you can reshim them all to be uniform across the board, your engine will run smoother as each cylinder is matched. Of course, a good throttle body sync is also needed, as that changes with valve clearance changes. I also elect to pick a target clearance of ~70% of max, that way, you shouldn't have to go back in there for quite some time.... sounds like that initial check on this engine should be done early after break-in, as you guys are implying things are perhaps settling in and changing early in life. I'd be interested at some mileage after that if indeed things did settle down and changes in clearance happening much more slowly... it should. I have two friends with Tracers, so I'll find out eventually, lol... meanwhile, any data is appreciated. I have a spreadsheet I'll have to modify to be CP3 specific...... will share that in due time. Also, if you're not into sanding shims, and need in-between sizes, they're available from RockyMountainATV, Pro-X.... and I believe 9.48 diameter (Hondas and Kawis are 7.48 diameter).

Yamaha and chain tensioners, jeez. We went through a lot of discussion on FJR's. I'm new to the Tracer, but it looks like an interesting design. Will have to get one in my hands one day soon. What is everyone's feeling on how they "fail"? At least here I don't see (yet) where anyone's grenaded an engine from a failure, just noise. Anyone done any forensic analysis of a "failed" one? Do they just get dirty and need cleaning or something? Just for interests sake, here is a Versys 1000 one. It's an automatic adjuster, but once the plunger notches in, it cannot retract without you removing it and pressing a release. If only it would fit... so it's kinda an automatic/manual adjuster all in one.

Definitely remove the plugs, why fight compression? Also not advisable to turn the engine without a CCT, could lose valve timing... not good on an interference engine.

Tracer 9 GT - 117 HP, 69 ft. lb torque, 213 kg., 31.9" seat height Tracer 900 GT - 114 Hp, 65 ft. lb. torque, 227 kg., 33.3" seat height Versys 1000 - 120 HP, 75 ft. lb. torque, 257 kg., 33.1 seat height. Ninja 1000 - 142 HP, 89 ft. lb. torque. Just some rough numbers. I'm not a convert yet, it will take some convincing to get me off the Versys, but open to the idea of a 900 GT...... If I had one, I see no compelling reason to go to the 9 GT. I personally prefer the 900 GT.

Oh my..... does the farkling ever stop, lol...... Guilty!

I always use the factory service manuals for all the bikes I've worked on.... Haynes or Clymer only if someone gave me one, but they're usually OK.

I'd re-use the plates no problem. Check for minimum thickness wear limit to verify.

I have ACC in the car and it's too annoying to use. I suppose OK if you're travelling at less than the average speed of the traffic. Faster and you're always accelerating or braking, or making lane changes to have the thing not kick in. I'd never use it on a bike.... I'd actually say it's not safe to do so. Regular cruise is better and more relaxing.

I am certainly curious about the technical side of this triple, so feel free to park the bike in my shop for a few days so I can look at stuff and of course go on some test rides..... as I mentioned to you, your 'nephew' Anthony should be lurking in here soon and since he's only half an hour away...... well, he could be the guinea pig instead, lol..... Anyway, after you following me yesterday, I have some conspicuity suggestions that won't cost you a lot.....

While it does appear funky, I'm not so sure that is tread separation, but rather that the "antenna tread" has worn to the point of disappearing... wear that tire some more and it will become smooth.... Look at 2and3cylinders post above, his tire is showing it also. http://www.cambriantyres.co.uk/dark-line-around-motorcycle-tyre/

Old home week for sure, good to see you chiming in..... well, the sport touring platform is fading away and the FJR/C14 are really the only two left in the game. I've done some homework and Yammy test rides on the Tracers for the last 3-4 years, even have a used set of FJR saddlebag lids in my stash just in case....... right now still enjoying the litre 4 cylinders, and the Versys 1000 is working out well as my sport tourer. Just keeping my eye out for a good used Tracer, and can't believe the money they're asking for them.... johnmark101, here's a pic of Bumblebee for you. I stripped this down naked and went over everything, spent more than I should have. Took it to WV in September, actually it's quite comfy the way I have it set up and it's running perfectly.

Get the pipes hot and use a brass/metal wire brush to get most of it off while it's hot.

Rubber stems if really short will be OK for a while, but there is a point where they will likely fail...... you don't want that to happen on the road, kinda tough repair....

I'll weigh in.... I've had a few of the Chinese ones like Sykik, pretty much now they are all similar. Had one leak at the (very thin) O-ring gasket around the display.... Still have one on the VFR but it has a hood. They all work within a pound or two, sensors go to sleep when not riding. Not sure if they do on the bluetooth one Grumpy Goat has... if you can check pressures instantly without waking the sensors and waiting...... bonus. A very good bluetooth one is Fobo, U$99, and the sensors are always active. One of the best out there. You'll spend that much eventually with some of these Chinese ones once you replace them down the road..... Fobo batteries go for a full year, but I put fresh ones in mine every spring anyway. I have a Rupse on the Versys, basically the same one as sold on tpms.ca for a whole lot less money. Had one in the past, lasted for years. Good unit, but you won't find it now (proprietary to tpms.ca). Sensors sleep on it too, have to wake them up to get a reading. To fix your losing air...... get t-stems either from tpms.ca or Fobo. Sensor goes on one, you add air in the other and never need to remove a sensor. We needed a t-stem on the FJR so the sensor sits up in between the brake rotors, otherwise with a 90 degree stem, they'd get hit and break off.

Good day, ladies and gents. Old guy here, came to learn and lurk about these bikes. I've been an FJR guy for years, do my own wrenching and go to tech days to help everyone out. Need to know anything about an FJR, lemme know, you'll find me on all the FJR forums. In the past I have had a V-strom 650 (2), ST1300, Goldwing, two FJR's, Honda CBF1000 (not sold in USA), VFR800 (still have), Versys 1000 (current main bike), and am playing with a Fazer 8 which is lovely power train. I have lusted after a Tracer GT for a few years now, just couldn't get one to speak to me enough on test rides, but I have friends with them. Maybe one day.... hoping to learn more about the tech side of things and wrenching on this triple. Cheers, Ray.

Here's another scientific explanation, taken from my Kawi Versys 1000..... fuel gauge not moving until half a tank is consumed.... monitor trip meter. Kawi computer does display Range to empty, and it is pretty good, but very accurate once that half tank is reached. It's all got to do with tank shape and how far below the full level the sender's float is...... as in duhs10's post. Here is a cross-section of the Kawi tank for another bit of perspective.....

If you look at the FJR parts list for Gen3, 2013-up, the lids are available separately..... but pricey. Drill out two rivets on each hinge lid, total 4, rivet on the new ones.... 5/32 or 4mm rivets. Salvage the backing plate from your old parts if the new ones don't have them. Scour ebay for damaged FJR saddlebags and paint the lids to your liking..... they're scarce.