superfist

I did the 20k mile oil change. The brake pads and air filter are being delivered tomorrow where I'll complete the rest of the service. I removed the Higdonian cage and trimmed the tab on the bottom and installed Dorman part number 090-082 which is the low profile equivalent of the mazda part and uses an 8mm allen key. Am oscillating saw made quick and clean work of the tab and cut it out in about a minute. I was disappointed to find that the engine bolts were not stainless (Or the cage was rusting and spreading? I'm not sure). They were difficult to remove due to the rust (despite lots of blue loc-tite back when I installed it). This was despite the plastic caps being installed. My motorcycle does see more than it's fair share of rain though, being a daily commuter. Between that and the left side lean clearance issues that has me losing confidence in the motorcycle on left sweepers, I won't be reinstalling the cage and start searching for frame sliders/engine covers instead.

Hit the 20k milestone in the north Georgia mountains! 20k mile service is being performed as soon as the new front brake pads and air filter get delivered.

I just replaced the photochromatic shield on my RF1200. My old one still transitioned perfectly after 19k miles of commuting, but was scratched up from user idiocy. I was lucky to get it just before the price jumped, so I won't be getting another one. At 200 for the visor, I just can't justify it for convenience.

I've been using "Honda Pro Chain Lube With White Graphite " since the bike was new. A single can lasted about 17k miles and I'm on a second can now at 19,800 miles. I purchased a new front/rear sprockets and a new chain at the same time I purchased that second can, but I haven't installed them yet because the original chain and sprockets still look great. All of the X-Rings are still intact with no tight spots and the sprockets haven't started shark-finning yet. I saw this video and I'm impressed by the simplicity of the gear oil solution, but it's hard to give up something that's been working well for me. It says "No fling" formula, but it does fling a bit.

I replaced the stock mirrors with bar end mirrors today. I had cheap shogun polymer bar end sliders that were slightly too big, so I attached the bar ends to a drill and then ran it like a lathe while I took small amounts off with a Dremel. I got the bike master clamp on mirrors from Revzilla. I was surprised at how heavy they are, so maybe they'll damp some of the bar vibrations. I really like that I no longer see my elbows unless I lean a little. I don't have to pull my elbows in to see behind me and they still have enough width to see the lanes to the side. I could flip them, but the way they're oriented they don't stick out beyond the bar end and there's a small gap between the mirror and the throttle tube. Looking at the pictures makes me want a shorty smoked windshield now...

New player jumping in! Motorcycle with wild flowers complete: Next Challenge: Get a picture of your motorcycle with a sunrise or sunset in the background.

@texscottyd I got the 2" Rox Risers with extended pivot from Revzilla. I got the extended pivot because it said the longer pivot piece was necessary for the FJ-09, but they stick out through the stock handlebar clamps. I'm not sure it was necessary. @jeff400650 You can also check the NHTSA website and enter your VIN. It will let you know if there are any outstanding recalls. I would recommend getting it done if it needs it. I once came across an FZ-09 Rider who had the bolt for one stock riser fall out mid turn and the other was loose. He managed not to go down. The passenger grab rail bolt back by the tail light from the FJ-09 will fit there in a pinch, so I gave him mine so he could get home. Recalls WWW.NHTSA.GOV Learn about the NHTSA recall process.

From my measurements, there isn't a lot of room to go straight down. moving them forward also follows the lower portion of the body fairing angle. With the Rox risers, I can also pivot up a little higher if I wanted to and the brake reservoir hard piece basically follows the angle of the instrument cluster. There's a lot of room for adjustment, but I put them as far forward and as far down as possible. Now I want more sweep, so I may try new bars in the future. I'm just anxious about trying to remove and reapply those expensive Yamaha grip warmers without damaging them (I used aquanet hair spray to slide them on... and I think they're pretty well glued by now).

I purchased Rox Risers and used them to lower my bars and push them forward. I think I have it set perfect for me and the clearance in the lines and body work was millimeters all around. 1.) Here you can see the bars are forward and lower than stock. I'll probably flip the stock riser caps back forward since the keyhole is not an easy thing to get to with gloves on now. 2.) Two pictures of left side bar clearance at full left lock - fairing and instruments. Full right lock is identical on fairing clearance and the clutch cables have a lot more clearance. You can also see the position of the risers in the second picture.

I regularly ride with a camera rolling when I commute. I also generally review any close calls or incidents to see if I missed something, or if I could have done something differently or better. These things happen and I'm just glad I don't even get angry anymore. Keep calm and throttle on, yeah? Anyhow, here's a little 2 minute compilation of my 2018 incidents and close calls.

They have really good food there too! It's definitely worth a stop for the hangout, food and/or lodging.

That tire wear pattern looks like rebound is too fast. My Metzler Roadtec 01 rear did exactly the same and wore very prematurely. I tried the Michelin PR5 for the first time and I have rebound set to almost closed on the stock shock. Just enough that the rear end actually moves, and it's been almost 5k miles and the wear is perfect so far.

I got the same tail light assembly this winter and it's great. I love that you can get Yamaha connectors from Custom LED for the tail light so that you get quick disconnect and the ability to return it to stock without ever needing to splice or cut wires.

I've had the Metzler Roadtec 01 (Non HWM) and they were grippy and performed really well in all weather, but didn't last very long. It only took a couple thousand miles to start really squaring off. I'm much happier with the Michelin Road 5 so far. After 6k miles, it still has a rounded profile, though not as sharp as new. The Metzler was looking close to the wear bar indicator at 6k miles on the rear with lots of meat on the shoulders. I commute daily with occasional 200 mile rides through the mountains and I'm fairly heavy on the throttle, for reference.

I have a similar experience. I have a 2015 model purchased in Nov 2016 (19,500 miles now on original battery). I ride year round and have never hooked up the battery tender. I had one morning where it didn't want to start. It turned over, but about the third attempt, there wasn't enough power to turn the starter motor. I jumped it, let it run for a while and went for a 30 minute ride. It started right up the next morning. A 12v battery should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 12.5-13.5v when fully charged. Motorcycle running and I see just over 14v. I always thought 14v was charging voltage and 12v was operating voltage. I've always just assumed the motorcycle charge system could handle charging a low battery.

I've been impressed with the RF1200 over the past few years, but it's also my first 'premium' helmet. The low noise, comfort and there isn't any unexpected change in resistance when doing things like a shoulder check. My old HJC wanted to spin my head the rest of the way 'round. My only negative (that might have been changed) is that the ear cups in the RF1200 are just a bit small if equipping with a Sena headset with the speakers. They fit, but not perfectly. I haven't tried the other brands, so some of them might have the same issue. Get the one that fits your head the best.

I got this exact kit about a year ago as well, and have used it. It's an awesome little kit that fits under the passenger seat (outside of the zipper case they provide). Also under the passenger seat is a tire puncture repair kit with the rope plugs and such. Perfect emergency kit and I like that the little red cap that you see in the picture can be removed to check the tire pressure without disconnecting the pump from the valve stem. I repurposed the little zipper case for other items. It's a great little case.

The inner piece is aluminum and the outer is steel. You get better weight savings than a solid steel sprocket, while getting the wear and tear longevity of steel sprocket teeth. I think it looks nice as well.

I agree. It looks good and I was almost sold, but what you mentioned is exactly why I didn't click "buy." Reviewing pictures I realized it's really difficult to make out plates even 30ft in front of the camera. I don't think 1080 with a tiny sensor is going to be enough. I don't mind waiting or paying more for a better quality image. I'll keep messing with the GoPro for now. I've done some testing and if I can read it with my eyes while on the road, I can zoom in and read it on the playback. My current settings are 2.7k resolution at 60fps with a wide field of view. Protune HAS to be enabled for the additional bitrate and I leave the flat color profile as the default. This gets the most image quality out of the GoPro that can be brought out in post processing. I've seen some dashcams hitting the 1440p resolutions, so they're getting better. I really think they're taking yesteryears cell phone camera sensors when the cell phone manufacturers are no longer buying them for their product lineups. So it seems dash cam camera tech is lagging a little bit.

Thanks Chris! That information is much appreciated.

The weather was beautiful Saturday so I took the FJ up into the north GA mountains to meet some coworkers for a cabin stay. The ride up was 70 and sunny. A night of poker, beer and tequila shots had me waking up wondering "Do I feel as look as I rough?!?" Saturday night it rained and by 11am, even the yard and dirt drive was soggy soft mud. Thankfully the FJ was still upright, but the gravel and dirt hill that I skidded all the way down with ABS popping was going to be a challenge. A rav4 (2wd) and a another 2wd SUV failed to make it up and reversed/slid back to the bottom multiple times each. The Tacoma and Ford F-150 trucks with 4wd made it to the top... but if 2wd failed, how is a one wheel drive on Michelin Road 5's supposed to make it up when the ABS had the rear wheel skipping all the way down in the dry?!? Well, I decided to give it a shot before the 2wd vehicles ripped and tore up the hill and ruts any further. I even stalled at one portion and honestly thought I was going to tip into the deep mud rut, but managed to hit the starter and made it to the top! The 2wd vehicles eventually got a running start and the key for them was to NOT touch the brakes, bounce all over the place and get by the mud on momentum. Did I mention the FJ-09 TCS is awesome? It's awesome.

I use Walgreen's alchohol prep pads. They're small and individually packaged ($4.19 for a box of 200) so they're easy to toss a few in a pocket before a ride and works perfect for mid day breaks and rest stops for a quick cleaning. If rain is in the forecast and for general commuting, I use the Nikwax visor treatment and it works amazingly well.

Mine has always made noise from day one so it never felt like it was out of place to me. It's been over 17,000 miles and it's never changed.

@daboo Sorry to necro an old thread, but it's been a while since this review and I'm really considering getting this or something like it. I love my gopro, but I'd like options if I don't feel like messing with batteries or making sure I copied the SD card and formatted it, etc... How well does the lens handle rain? The flat surface of the gopro lens cover won't let go of raindrops, even when I use rainex or nikwax type products. This makes the video almost useless when reviewing rainy footage unless I actively wipe the lens on a regular basis. Edited to tag the OP

Awesome. Ever since you announced that there would be a migration to a new site and premium membership was on hold, I've been waiting for the transfer. Donation sent for a year! Thank you (and mods) for running a great forum!