dazzler24

I hadn't heard of that being used but doesn't mean to say it's not true in some parts of the country! So... Norries mate! 👍 And you're right...back on topic 🙂

I think you meant No worries mate! But I'll take it! Cheers 🍺

My apologies @captainscarlet if I mangled the Swedish Language but in my defence I lay the blame solely at the feet of Google Translate. 🙂 Snälla förlåt mina synder.

C'mon BugsInTeeth! It's pretty obvious what the captain said!..... 😎😉

PM sent. And on the plains?

Closing the loop as promised - new LED flasher unit turned up this morning. Installed it and I now have a normal working indicator system again. Happy days. 🙂 I'm still unsure as to whether the washing of the bike caued an electrical 'condition' that killed the LED flasher unit in the first place or not but I did purchase two units (it was just as cheap to buy two as it was to buy one on one particular ebay store!). If after washing it happens again I'll have to thoroughly investigate the cause. Finger's crossed it was just a Murphy's Law incident. Cheers for everyone's input.

I had my 2015 done wordy for the reasons already mentioned and it was done by a bloke down your way actually - Kevin Hope at Eight Mile Plains. Here's what his flash does/did:- 1/ A/F ratio's Dyno confirmed, custom built on the Dyno then imported into the flash, both the TPS & Imap tables have been corrected for all 3 cylinders. 2/ A different throttle map has been built for every gear, for all modes A, B & Standard, looking for smoother throttle control then ramps up the throttle openings all the way to 100% throttles for a quicker action throttle, with no factory restrictions. 3/ Throttle deceleration tables have been remapped for smoother off & throttle conditions on A, B & STD modes in the FT software, this allows us better smoother on/off throttle control. 4/ Injector shut off removed, no longer need to fit a slipper clutch on the 14to 15 MT09’s, my maps have far less compression braking when the throttle is closed, I have altered the decel maps at zero throttles to give the bike 90% engine braking instead of 100% in the FT software. 5/ All ignition tables have been corrected for each gear for smoother power delivery on all map modes + max top end power. 6/ 5th & 6th gear restrictions removed you will now have 100% throttle openings in 5th & 6th gears in A, STD & B modes. 7/ Speed limiter removed for all gears, rev limiter unchanged I don't recommend in changing the rev limiter there are very little gains in overing this motor. 8/ Default to A or STD mode for 2014 & 15 models, let me know I can make the bike start in A or STD mode if you have a 14/15 MT09, A - mod has been tamed below 10% throttles & ramped up after that to map for a faster ride but with a very controllable throttle. STD - mode has been softened to ride in heavy bumper to bumper traffic below 10% throttles with a slightly stronger mid range over the factory STD mode. B - mode Has been ramped up to max throttles to make B mode more rideable & bit more crisper. I cannot flash the bike to start in B mode on 2014 & 15 models, it can be flashed for either A or STD modes on the 14 & 15 MT09’s. 9/ I can map the AIS system off if you are running an open pipe this will reduce the popping on closed throttle or I can leave it open so it pops on over run. 10/ I run the radiator fan in the flash on at 96C instead of the Yamaha spec 104C. 11/ The Quick Shifter function is enabled in the flash for 2014 & 15 models it only operates above 4000rpm through the tilt sensor. 12/Iif you are worried about fuel range I would run one of my O2 controllers with your reflash, flashing off the closed loop O2 sensor will reduce fuel range approx. 10kms on a full tank.

That does look like a comfy seat.😌

I mounted two mini 805 car dash cams onto my bike. One at the front under the headlight and one at the back attached to a pannier bracket. They aren't meant to be exposed to the weather but haven't been wet. They work(ed) well and are quite small and difficult to spot which is what I wanted. Mainly use the video to review some interesting parts of a ride but recently lost my number/registration plate from the rear of my bike and was able to locate and recover it using the video footage! Paid for themselves right there! There are some black Friday deals coming up on dedicated 'dash cams' for bikes that I'm thinking of jumping onto though as my rear facing camera finally passed away recently so it may be time - if at the right price.

When I had my lowering links in I did just that.

The half where people live unfortunately. Been a few houses and worse, lives lost.

Here's another one just for fun! And no, the guy with the big ears is not a photo of me.

Let's get some perspective.

Yes it certainly is a great machine.

Sage advice as always wordy. But at the risk of counter know-all-ing, I actually did it pretty much the way you described in that I ran the tape off the ends and used my micro mini scissors, that are part of my Leatherman tool, to cut the correct angles before removing the backing tape and then sticking down. Same for where they met at the join. Cut them both at the same time and you get a nice straight seemless join. And yes I did stand back and had several beers. The job I did improved with each empty beer bottle somehow? 😉

I know what you're saying @nhchris ! Back in the day we thought that going overseas was a trip to a local island a half mile off shore from home! A real treat!

@BugsInTeeth - Well like most ideas I get, it all stemmed from others within this forum. The red pinstriping in my case is nothing more than some 3mm red tape that was donated by @wordsmith (who lives down the road from me). I very carefully took my time and cut it at the correct angle to match up with the ends and cut it again where it meets at the only small change of direction to avoid any bunching. On advice from others I applied a dab of Mrs. Dazzlers clear nail polish at the ends and the join to hopefully stop any peeling. Doesn't look too bad a job for a rank amateur I think? - As long as you don't look too closely. 🙂 Cheers.

Added a tiny bit of Farkling courtesy @wordsmith. Just a little understated red pinstripe on either side of the bike. Thanks wordy 🙂 Now, do I do the wheels as well.....????

I had the lowering links in for some time and yes, did find that it was a little more difficult to put on the centre stand but not a big deal though. As far as the sidestand is concerned there were many who felt that they needed to modify it but my experience was that it was fine. I even added a 'foot' to the end and never felt that the bike was ever in danger of tipping over on even ground. Conversely, when putting the bike back to standard height my first impression was that the bike now leaned too far on the sidestand! Horses for courses and it depends what you get used to I guess. As always...YMMV.

@wordsmith - All true wordy, however it does mean that your are now officially engaged! And that's because he'd chosen to wear your ring. 😲

@BBB - and does it sit securely/firmly or is there freeplay/movement like I experienced when attempting that method?

Hi Torquil, I know you're asking about a low seat but have you considered lowering links (dog bones) instead of, or even with, a lower seat to get the bike a bit lower to the ground? Picture below shows the original links at the bottom and lowering links at the top. These are for my 2015 Tracer. Doesn't look like much but they do make a reasonable difference. Welcome to the forum BTW. There are many members here that have a ton of knowledge. You've come to the right place. 🙂

@BugsInTeeth , @texscottyd - Just as a follow up. Spoke to the man himself and it's a '64 model. You guys were all over it! Obviously 'Tappet Heads' from way back! 😎

Thanks go to you and the members here. I'm sure I've already got my money's worth from all of the help, tips and advice received. Cheers.