TTR Ignition

Have you thought about a Quick Shifter? Bolt-on plug-in, US$150 +$15 for the postman. More of a toy than bling, but most bling isn't that practical any way ... 😀

I sell Quick Shifter kits made in the Czech Republic, but I ship from Scarborough, ON. C$200, in stock!

I'll stick my oar in and note that a PC-V or PC-III will allow a bike with no built-in Quick Shift function to run a QS ...

The old FZR line had self-cancelling signals back in the '80s. I'm astonished at the notion that a modern bike would NOT have self-cancelling blinkers.

I like to tap into the rear brake switch for +12v; the Brown wire is fused and switched.

Some of you may have noticed my efforts to determine how to connect a quick shifter to a flashed ECU. Purely mercenary, of course; the easier it is for a customer to use my product, the more people will buy one. I just had a rather disappointing discussion with Dave at VCycleNut.com. Apparently FlashTune requires a custom cable with 6 pins that socket into the back of the ECU plug. Woolich does indeed access the QS through the O2 port, but their QS hardware is a bi-directional unit, meaning the QS function has to be voltage based, instead of just an on/off switch. There is also the fact that their QS function is part of the $500 'Race tools' package, and is not part of the standard flash. What does this mean for me and any potential customers? It means that if you have either of these flash packages, it doesn't matter. If you buy a QS from me and your bike is earlier than 2017, you also need to buy a controller. I can't see this helping my sales forecast ...

The button is the most likely culprit. Pull and strip that switch cluster, and get in there with the WD40.

The plug itself is available through Alex at Corsa-Technic.

Whatever keeps the exhaust pipe free-flowing!

"Imodium plugs"?! Quick dissolve, or chewable? 🤣

Hanging up the hat is really hard. I haven't raced since '05, and I finally sold my TZ125 a few years ago. My health may someday improve to the point where I can be trusted in a car on a public road, but I've had to accept that I've turned my last lap on a GP bike. 😟

This has been a Yamaha quirk for years and years; I don't know if the other OEMs do it. A LH thread on the right mirror means that if it gets hit from the front - tip-over, crash, too close to a minivan - it folds back, instead of breaking, or ripping out the threads. You'll notice that the securing nut on the RH mirror has a small slit cut into each wrench flat; this is an indicator that it's a left-hand thread.

230F?! WOW - that's nuts. I have to wonder if your thermostat isn't undersized for the load you're putting on it. That, or your rad is in dire need of a flush. Another option might be your new tune - 120hp might be too much for your cooling system, especially if the fuel map leans out vs OEM as you approach peak power at WFO. Even more than cars, bikes are partly cooled by the fuel evapourating in the intake ports and against the pistons.