FJ-09 Oil Filter list

[koth442]

Purolator PL14612 that I bought must have been one of the new style as it didn't have enough concave to it. Took it back and opened a few boxes to check and all the PL14612 and PL14610 filters were the same 'no go'. However, the premium PBL14610 'Boss' version had a much deeper concave and worked just fine. It's also a dark metallic color for those who are fashion conscious. BTW, a can of Krylon will fix those ugly filters in about two minutes.

The first PL14612 I put on worked just fine. The second one leaked everywhere. Horribly annoying. Both PL14612's.

[adjuster]

Purolator changed the mounting flange on the "lower" quality filters, and they will no longer fit the FJ09.
 
However, the Pure One, and BOSS filters as noted, fit just fine. (And the BOSS is about the best depth filter I've seen yet, from a proven quality filter company, Purolator.)
 
No Fram crap on anything I've owned since I was a kid and bought one just because it was orange, I thought it was cool. My dad had me pull it apart when I changed the oil the next time, and finding cheap cardboard and ripped pleats that leaked oil right past the media without ever even filtering it was proof positive that Fram was a one time deal for me. Period.
 
I've run Wix, Champion, ST Tech (WalMart) and AC Delco, and they are all pretty well made as are Denso, and some Japanese filters.
 
Canton makes the best quality filter I've ever used, but you pay for it.
 
In the "spin on" disposable realm of filters, the best right now is the Purolator BOSS. Thicker metal housing. Depth synthetic filter media, silicone anti-drain back and real metal springs on the bypass valve. (Not an issue on the depth filter media, it should not clog up in normal use, so the bypass valve will likely never open.)
 
The PLB14610 Too bad I don't get paid for promoting their filters, but this is the best spin on filter at this time. Period.
 

 
The only better option is the Canton "spin on" adapter setup, and it's expensive. (And really, this new BOSS filter uses the same idea of depth media, just in a throw away spin on design v/s a housing that you then change the filter out of every 25,000 miles just because you can, not because it's really needed.

[adjuster]

Oh yeah, I slap a few magnets on the outside of the filter, and it traps any steel particles that might happen to be in the oil. When you change the filter, you just pop the magnets off, and onto the new filter again. (Don't put them inside the filter, that's a mess, and not needed, the metal will be "stuck" to the inside of the filter body, if you wanted to cut it open and see what's there.)
 
I use cheap "cow" magnets that are super strong. Farmers use them to trap barb wire and other metal the cows eat, and could then damage them from the inside out. The magnets sit in their gut, and so does the metal stuck to them, no harm to the cows.
 
I use three of these. They are high quality, chrome plated, and don't corrode or rust at all. They also don't ever fall off the filter, and I use three of them per filter. Just stick them on the underside, and you are done. Use them on your cars too, they work excellent.
https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=272594848278&&&dispItem=1&chn=ps
 
Here you go, they have improved the design, and it's black, so you guys who want a black filter, you can have black magnets too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Magnetics-COW-CP6X4BX-New-Ferrite-Cow-Magnet-0-625-Diameter-3-New/382081197907?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40130%26meid%3D3d1ee3d43c724413ab16d6f609faae52%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D120759338622

[koth442]

Thank you @adjuster for the info and links!
 
Amazon prime for PBL 14610 oil filter: Link

[yamahafjrider]

Update, I have just had leaking problems with the Bosch 3323 and 3300. I read Bosch filters are made by Purolator. 

[u26a1]

FYI, for those like me who have to search around for the official part number every time I order more oil filters: apparently there is a new Yamaha part number.  According to the FZ-09 forums, 5GH-13440-50-00 has been replaced by 5GH-13440-60-00.
 
The parts fiche seems to verify that the -60 number is now the correct one for all model years.
 

[wordsmith]

FYI, for those like me who have to search around for the official part number every time I order more oil filters: apparently there is a new Yamaha part number.  According to the FZ-09 forums, 5GH-13440-50-00 has been replaced by 5GH-13440-60-00. 
The parts fiche seems to verify that the -60 number is now the correct one for all model years.

I'm about the buy a new filter.   If the -50 model is offered should one insist on getting a -60?   Or is the -50 still OK?   Thanks for advice...

[u26a1]

I'm about the buy a new filter.   If the -50 model is offered should one insist on getting a -60?   Or is the -50 still OK?   Thanks for advice...

 
Poking around online there seem to have been some people who ordered the -50 and received the -60 in the mail -- probably the supplier just hadn't updated their website or whatever, or maybe didn't even know about the change.
 
I haven't found any instances of there being a big recall hullabaloo or anything. I've got about ~30k miles now on the old ones . . . haha based on a sample size of one, it's probably fine?
 

[dbeau]

FYI, for those like me who have to search around for the official part number every time I order more oil filters: apparently there is a new Yamaha part number.  According to the FZ-09 forums, 5GH-13440-50-00 has been replaced by 5GH-13440-60-00. 
The parts fiche seems to verify that the -60 number is now the correct one for all model years.

I'm about the buy a new filter.   If the -50 model is offered should one insist on getting a -60?   Or is the -50 still OK?   Thanks for advice...

 
 
Now this is a bit of a fuzzy memory but I recall looking into the diff between -50 and -60 and I think the -50 might be a little bit bigger of a filter but Yamaha had some bikes using -50 and others using -60 so they just decided to consolidate and have all the bikes use -60..... Or something like that.

[skipperT]

I'm about the buy a new filter.   If the -50 model is offered should one insist on getting a -60?   Or is the -50 still OK?   Thanks for advice...

Now this is a bit of a fuzzy memory but I recall looking into the diff between -50 and -60 and I think the -50 might be a little bit bigger of a filter but Yamaha had some bikes using -50 and others using -60 so they just decided to consolidate and have all the bikes use -60..... Or something like that.

 
You're onto it.
 
The only difference between a 5GH -50 and a 5GH -60 filter is the length.
 
-50 was formally a -00 or -10, used on lots of bikes.
 
-60 was formally a -20, used (IIRC) on R6 and R1 models at first because of the reduced room for the filter between the exhaust and the case. Shorter in length than a (now) -50.
 
Yamaha hasn't consolidated filters, however, to my knowledge. I'm sure the engineers have a reason for which filter goes on which bike, besides clearance issues.
 
The 5JW filter is the longest, for the FJR 1300. It was also superseded several months ago.
 
-Skip

[empire00]

I had the only local Yamaha tech I trust look this up again this morning. The new part number officially for the FJ-09 is the 5GH-13440-60-00.
 
That being said, the 5GH-13440-50-00 and the 5GH-13440-20-00 are according to him the same filter. I managed to grab some 20's cheap off Craigslist as they are the filter used in the side by sides.
 
 

 

[dbeau]

Purolator changed the mounting flange on the "lower" quality filters, and they will no longer fit the FJ09. 
However, the Pure One, and BOSS filters as noted, fit just fine. (And the BOSS is about the best depth filter I've seen yet, from a proven quality filter company, Purolator.)
 
No Fram crap on anything I've owned since I was a kid and bought one just because it was orange, I thought it was cool. My dad had me pull it apart when I changed the oil the next time, and finding cheap cardboard and ripped pleats that leaked oil right past the media without ever even filtering it was proof positive that Fram was a one time deal for me. Period.
 
I've run Wix, Champion, ST Tech (WalMart) and AC Delco, and they are all pretty well made as are Denso, and some Japanese filters.
 
Canton makes the best quality filter I've ever used, but you pay for it.
 
In the "spin on" disposable realm of filters, the best right now is the Purolator BOSS. Thicker metal housing. Depth synthetic filter media, silicone anti-drain back and real metal springs on the bypass valve. (Not an issue on the depth filter media, it should not clog up in normal use, so the bypass valve will likely never open.)
 
The PLB14610 Too bad I don't get paid for promoting their filters, but this is the best spin on filter at this time. Period.
 
 
The only better option is the Canton "spin on" adapter setup, and it's expensive. (And really, this new BOSS filter uses the same idea of depth media, just in a throw away spin on design v/s a housing that you then change the filter out of every 25,000 miles just because you can, not because it's really needed.

I've been reading about issues with the Boss filters. Specifically that there are sharp burrs on the inside of the anti-drain back holes that cut into the silicon valve. So maybe not the greatest filter after all.  
All that said, I too have always been an anti-Fram guy but I'm reading that the current Fram Ultra filters are highly regarded these days. Maybe times have changed.
 
I have the Boss filter on my bike right now so I do intend to cut it open next oil change and check the silicone for cuts. Hoping for the best.

[wordsmith]

Bought a new Yamaha oil filter today, part no: on box: 5GH-13440-60.   Filter cost AUD$17, crush washer AUD$3!   Aaaarrrggghhh!

[dbeau]

Honda 94109-14000 Oil Drain Plug Gasket Pack of 50 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JKPUUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CNMXzb53B0KVV
 
All the crush washers you'll ever need for under $10. Just make sure you buy from "genuine parts planet" otherwise you won't get the real thing.

[wordsmith]

The crush washer I just bought for my next oil- and filter-change has a slight groove around the circumference on one side: the other side is entirely groove-less.   Please - which side goes against the head of the securing bolt on the oil pan, A (grooved) or B (not grooved) in the pix?.   Thank you...