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FJ-09 Oil Filter list


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I had the exact same problem as a previous poster with the threads bottoming out before the gasket was completely sealed. I was trying to install the purolator PL14612. Went back to the Wix 51358 which works fine.
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  • 4 weeks later...
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I have had great service from using Purolator ML16817 filters on 2 Honda ST1300's
as well as my Honda CRV cage.  A few years ago a ST13 rider did a pretty thorough
tear down of many oil filters and came to the conclusion that the Purolator ML16817
had the best build quality, that was good enough info. for me so I have probably used
20 of them in different vehicles with no problems.  When I get my RED FJ-09 I will
break it in by MotoMan's method and change oil and filter at 20 miles then 600 and
every 2500mi. thereafter using Rotella synthetic after 1st. 2500 miles... 
 
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I have had great service from using Purolator ML16817 filters on 2 Honda ST1300's as well as my Honda CRV cage.  A few years ago a ST13 rider did a pretty thorough
tear down of many oil filters and came to the conclusion that the Purolator ML16817
had the best build quality, that was good enough info. for me so I have probably used
20 of them in different vehicles with no problems.  When I get my RED FJ-09 I will
break it in by MotoMan's method and change oil and filter at 20 miles then 600 and
every 2500mi. thereafter using Rotella synthetic after 1st. 2500 miles... 

Purolator ML16817
That's what i'm currently using. A little longer than stock, but no fitment issues.
 
Ty
 
'05 Bandit 1200s ( Blue and White ) Bandit pic
 
2015 FJ-09 ( RED ) FJ-09 pic
 
 
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The Purolator Pure One filters are top quality. But they're also bright yellow and I'm a little worried about it sticking out like a sore thumb on this engine. :-)
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The Purolator Pure One filters are top quality. But they're also bright yellow and I'm a little worried about it sticking out like a sore thumb on this engine. :-)
just buy the black Yamaha one - they aren't expensive. It's not like you should be using one every week...
This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is.
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just buy the black Yamaha one - they aren't expensive. It's not like you should be using one every week...
I disagree. My nearest Yamaha dealer - 30 miles away - charges $17 each for their filter. The Purolator Pure One filter is just $6 and sold at 5-6 stores within a mile of my house.
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9Rider wrote:
>> When I get my RED FJ-09 I will break it in by MotoMan's method and change oil and filter at 20 miles then 600 and every 2500mi....<<
 
Wow, that's a lot of oil changes! I honestly think that changing the oil/filter every 2500 mi. is way overkill if you're using a good filter and synthetic oil. These bikes can easily, and safely, go 5,000 mi. between changes. Why waste oil and money when it's not necessary? I have been using a 5,000 mi. interval for almost 30 years now, never had an oil-related problem....
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-CD-
 
2015 Yamaha FJ-09: RaceTech Gold Valves, RaceTech Rear Spring, Arrow Full Exhaust - black with w/Carbon Fibre endcap, ECU Flash, Lowered 20mm front, 15 mm rear, Denali driving lights, Fenda Extenda, Tail Tidy, Corbin Seat, Madstad 22" Windshield, OEM heated grips, Woodcraft frame sliders, Grip Puppies, BadAss Cover (Large)....
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9Rider wrote: >> When I get my RED FJ-09 I will break it in by MotoMan's method and change oil and filter at 20 miles then 600 and every 2500mi....<<
 
Wow, that's a lot of oil changes! I honestly think that changing the oil/filter every 2500 mi. is way overkill if you're using a good filter and synthetic oil. These bikes can easily, and safely, go 5,000 mi. between changes. Why waste oil and money when it's not necessary? I have been using a 5,000 mi. interval for almost 30 years now, never had an oil-related problem....
I think the 20 mile oil and filter change is a good idea just for the purpose of getting any extraneous left over metal from the milling process. Getting any particles out of the engine and filter certainly cant't hurt.
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>> Getting any particles out of the engine and filter certainly cant't hurt. <<
 
True that. But I question the 20 mi. as not being nearly long enough, that's what the 600 mi. change is for. And the job of the filter is to trap those shavings, etc.....
 
-CD-
 
2015 Yamaha FJ-09: RaceTech Gold Valves, RaceTech Rear Spring, Arrow Full Exhaust - black with w/Carbon Fibre endcap, ECU Flash, Lowered 20mm front, 15 mm rear, Denali driving lights, Fenda Extenda, Tail Tidy, Corbin Seat, Madstad 22" Windshield, OEM heated grips, Woodcraft frame sliders, Grip Puppies, BadAss Cover (Large)....
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  • 3 months later...
Purolator or Wix filters whenever possible for me. ;)
 
But the best option, and I'm considering it, is a Canton Racing filter adapter, that puts a full flow, depth media filter canister system on the spin on mount. You really get the best filtration from this setup, down to about 8 microns, and it flows more dirty than paper ones do new. So better oil flow for your engine from start to finish.
 
Most spin on filters don't trap stuff much below 20 microns, a few get down to 10 or slightly better depending on the media used.
 
The gold standard is wear is caused by particles bigger than 10 microns, smaller than that, and the "particles" are just suspended in the oil, as tolerances in the engine are generally much wider than 10 microns or so. (Depending on the engine of course.)
 
 
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