gregman Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Possibly cutting that intake will net the improvement gregman noted. Or maybe not... at all. See Yamaha has a bunch of engineers whose job is it to get the most out of something, within the given parameters. Some times those parameters include noise and EPA regs that we typically care little about, so mucking around with stuff can yield real improvements. Other times bikes get all hacked up, and actually lose power. Very true. My old DRZ400 netted a solid 5 hp or so by cutting the snorkel out of the top of the airbox (the "3x3" mod) and jetting, while the first gen Concours gains quite a bit of midrange torque by actually blocking a portion of the airbox with a piece of foam (the "SISF Five Minute Mod"). '15 FJ-09 Red is the fastest color! Prototype Parabellum screens Shogun sliders SC seats Radiator screen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panooch Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Hey there papac2000, Any ride report updates after throttle body synch and intake snorkel mod? The snorkel mod was a good thought. Have you noticed any improvements? Everyday's a good day when your able to ride 15 FJ-09 - 2WDW ECU flash, Givi SV201, Nelson Rigg tail bag, OES sliders, Koubalink extenders, Ermax Sport, Vista Cruise, OEM seat mod, (smiles) 07 Honda ST1300A (sold) 06 Kawi KLR650 - Big Gun full exhaust, Corbin, Givi, PMR racks, carb mod (keeper) 97 Honda VFR750 - Traxxion Dynamics, Penske, Givi 3 piece, carbon exhaust (keeper?) 20+ years of snowmobiles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papac2000 Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 No huge change after sync. Slight reduction in low speed surging, but its still there...need ECU changes to get the rest out. The snorkel mod may be a wash. I dyno tested it and the change was imperceptible. At least there was no loss. FWIW my AFR is 13.0 from 4-11K with the exhaust mod I've done and the slight snorkel mod. 2015 Matte Grey Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDog Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 interesting I need to do mine now.... and I will mod that air box but I want to look at it and scratch my head and ponder first... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paddingtonthebear Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Since my dealer did NOT do it. Wish me luck.What do you mean they didn't do it? I just dropped $225 for my dealer to do the first service since I don't have the tool to do the throttle body sync and I felt like the bike was running a bit rough and not idling to my liking. After the fact it barely felt like anything changed and all I did was throw $225 at them, which I didn't want to do in the first place since an oil change + all the checks is pretty darn easy. Unless I'm missing something and it's all placebo, but my dealer kinda really sucks in the first place so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cricket1 Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 My dealer also quoted $255 for the first service. For that price they BETTER do the TB synch! I friend just got a Versys 650, and his first service was $68. Obviously no TB synch to do, but seems much more in line with what they actually do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member howlingdrifter Posted June 24, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 24, 2015 Given the minor adjustment needed to the TB synch, I wonder if it is worth the hassle of taking of the tank etc. at every oil change. I just hit 600. Would the consensus here be to leave it alone till about 4000? I really want to do my own maintenance, but want to keep it as simple as possible without taking on more than necessary. BTW, I was thinking of buying the same carburetor synchronizer from Amazon. The gauges seem to be so much simpler to use than the manometers, without worrying about fluid rushing here or there. The only negative I read online was that they occasionally have to be calibrated - which is not really that big a deal to do (apparently there is a simple screw to adjust to atmospheric pressure?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thruster8999 Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Given the minor adjustment needed to the TB synch, I wonder if it is worth the hassle of taking of the tank etc. at every oil change. I just hit 600. Would the consensus here be to leave it alone till about 4000? I really want to do my own maintenance, but want to keep it as simple as possible without taking on more than necessary. BTW, I was thinking of buying the same carburetor synchronizer from Amazon. The gauges seem to be so much simpler to use than the manometers, without worrying about fluid rushing here or there. The only negative I read online was that they occasionally have to be calibrated - which is not really that big a deal to do (apparently there is a simple screw to adjust to atmospheric pressure?). I say leave it alone till 4000 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delnari Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 I choose to skip the 600 mile dealer service and changed the oil myself. Sure enough, the vibration from the throttle bodies being out of sync creep in around 1200 mile mark. Bit the bullet and order the Motion Pro Sync Tool and had a co-worker/rider come over and help me do it. And yes they were out of sync, but not by a lot. According to the service manual you need to measure them with the airbox on so it took a while to do with removing and installing the airbox after each adjustment. Finally after 1 hour got them near perfect and the no more engine vibration. It's a pain in the ass job removing all the body parts to do it, but in my case it paid off. If you have time, patience, and willingness to learn it's worth the effort to do it yourself. My local dealer was clueless when I bought the bike in when the vibration started and said there was nothing they could find wrong with the bike. Will be doing most of the maintenance myself for now on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjsracing Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 I also did my 600 mile service myself. I'm rather meticulous about my bike maintenance, not so much in the frequency as in the the perfection of the work performed. I will buy some sort of sync tool for my 6000 mile service, and perform it myself. Like you, I don't have a problem spending an hour or two to get it just right. I'm the guy who spends 30 minutes balancing the wheels/tires on my dirt bikes, lol. I spent an hour getting the rear axel perfectly aligned using string on my FJ-09, after i was certain it was "perfect" using the motion pro rod tool, my home made tool, and a dial caliper. Some folks don't like to wrench on their bikes, and that's cool, but for me it's part of the enjoyment, 2015 FJ-09, 2016 1290 Super Duke, 2017 150 XC-W (primary ride), 2012 DR650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cricket1 Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Well, surprisingly my dealer did a very good job with my first service, which was at 1,430 miles. (I changed the factory oil and filter at 60 miles, the first week I had the bike.) Anyway, HUGE improvement with the TB synch! Idle is totally smooth, and just about all the vibration in the 4K-5K range is gone! It is much better than even when the bike was brand new, so I suspect it was off from the factory. They also adjusted the chain to the spec I asked for, about 1" total and they installed the factory grips and insulated the left side bar so the heat is nice and even. All for a grand total of $183usd, including tax. (The grip install was paid for when the grips were ordered, I think it was about $120 or 1.5 hrs labor) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffritz Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 About to do the throttle sync myself. Another one who got charged $225 for first service from the dealer with no sync done, argh! I have 2200 miles on the bike now. Picked up a Carbtune Pro from Carbtune.com, heard good things. Looks straight forward procedure. The only question I have is do you have to remove the airbox to reach the adjustment screws? I was hoping to remove the airbox, attach sync tool hoses, reinstall airbox, then make real time changes with the bike running. If you need to make changes then reattach the airbox every time over and over that sounds like a real PITA. Any insight into this from those who have done it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 The only question I have is do you have to remove the airbox to reach the adjustment screws? I was hoping to remove the airbox, attach sync tool hoses, reinstall airbox, then make real time changes with the bike running. If you need to make changes then reattach the airbox every time over and over that sounds like a real PITA. Any insight into this from those who have done it? Yes, you need to pull the tank and remove the air box to access the "caps" on the throttle bodies. Put the tank back on WITHOUT the air box, sync throttle bodies, (you CAN get a short screwdriver in there with the tank on and air box removed), remove tank again disconnect sync gauge and re-assemble everything. I would argue that the air box installed/removed doesn't affect the TB sync one bit. If you think it does, or worry it might - install it when you are done and check to see if anything changes. HTH, Skip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffritz Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 So just do the sync with the air box off then. Should be safe to do, just don't stick a gopher in the throttle body and should be good to go..... Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 9rider Posted July 17, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 17, 2015 Notice any improvement in engine performance after cuting the airbox inlet tube? Nice right up... Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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