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What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?


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On 4/20/2022 at 6:13 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

Unlikely IMO but even if you go back to stock would it be coincidental if the CC functions again?

It does seem like a huge stretch, but they've been working with Yamaha directly, with the full suite of official Yamaha diagnostic tools, and can't find anything else wrong.  

I feel the odds of the CC starting to work actually coincidentally exactly when the sprocket is changed back... well, they're pretty damn long.  It's not an intermittent problem, at least, so there's less worries of random things appearing to be fixes.  

Basically, if it's not the gearing, it's almost certainly a software problem. 

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36 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

ICouldn't find any reason why it was shutting off.  The best guess (and it's just a guess now) is that the gearing is just too far off and the ECU is seeing too great a difference between RPM and predicted wheel speed.  So they're popping a stock sprocket on to see what happens.

 

Do you have factory cruise?  There 'might' be a difference between the factory Cruise and the aftermarket MCCruise but I have had the MCCruise almost the entire life of my bike and have used 15/16/17 counter shaft sprockets and 45 and 47 rear sprockets in different combinations with out ANY issues from the cruise control, or differences with the speedometer.  I would be very curious to see if the sprocket change was the culprit.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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On 4/22/2022 at 5:15 PM, Wintersdark said:

The best guess (and it's just a guess now) is that the gearing is just too far off and the ECU is seeing too great a difference between RPM and predicted wheel speed.  So they're popping a stock sprocket on to see what happens. 

I recently did a quasi-petshark maneuver by installing the Graves Motorsports AIS Blockoff plates and removed all  that nasty plumbing, but failed to jumper/leave the old solenoid connected. So now I have a Engine Light and a P1400 code thrown. Normally, it's not that big deal, you just rectify and clear the code.

But in addition, something much, MUCH worse: I lost my cruise control entirely!  😥 So how are these two systems related? An emissions issue caused the CC to go offline, just WTF? Then again, who knows in these modern bikes.  I would engage the CC button, and the yellow cruise control icon on the TFT starts blinking very fast, and of course will not set in any gear or any speed. 😖

I pulled the fuel tank and air box again, put the blue connector back on the blocked-off/taped off solenoid, and left it in its OEM rubber hangar, then buttoned the engine bay back up:

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I jumped on the Interstate and ran the bike up to 70mph, then hit the Cruise Control button. Boom, CC is back and behaves just as perfect as it always had before. Whew! 😳

Still have the Engine Light until my OBD2 Reader arrives next Monday, then I can remove it myself. Soooooo glad the CC is back, it was dearly missed! :( 

 

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9 minutes ago, Warchild said:

I recently did a quasi-petshark maneuver by installing the Graves Motorsports AIS Blockoff plates and removed all  that nasty plumbing, but failed to jumper/leave the old solenoid connected. So now I have a Engine Light and a P1400 code thrown. Normally, it's not that big deal, you just rectify and clear the code.

But in addition, something much, MUCH worse: I lost my cruise control entirely!  😥 So how are this two related? Who knows in these modern bikes.  I would engage the CC button, and the yellow cruise control icon on the TFT starts blinking very fast, and of course will not set in any gear or any speed. 😖

I pulled the fuel tank and air box again, put the blue connector back on the blocked-off/taped off solenoid, and left it in its OEM rubber hangar, then buttoned the engine bay back up:

1800634001_PXL_20220422_150116015(1).thumb.jpg.3fdafa96a4576684fba8599cd513233e.jpg

I jumped on the Interstate and ran the bike up to 70mph, then hit the Cruise Control button. Boom, CC is back and behaves just as perfect as it always had before. Whew! 😳

Still have the Engine Light until my OBD2 Reader arrives next Monday, Then I can remove it myself. Soooooo glad the CC is back, it was dearly missed! :( 

 

That's interesting?  I did a similar block off job recently on my vintage 2015 Tracer and I left the AIS connector swinging in the breeze, but I don't get any errors reported or engine light?  Should I have?

Maybe it's just a later model ECU difference thing?

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30 minutes ago, dazzler24 said:

That's interesting?  I did a similar block off job recently on my vintage 2015 Tracer and I left the AIS connector swinging in the breeze, but I don't get any errors reported or engine light?  Should I have?

Maybe it's just a later model ECU difference thing

Or tune, the Ivan disabled ais and O2. Mines disconnected as well with Ivan's tune, no issues.

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36 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Or tune, the Ivan disabled ais and O2. Mines disconnected as well with Ivan's tune, no issues.

My 2015 has Ivan flash, block off plates and connector taped up so moisture hopefully won't be a problem. No issues so far.

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1 minute ago, Instinct28 said:

My 2015 has Ivan flash, block off plates and connector taped up so moisture hopefully won't be a problem. No issues so far.

But I don't have electronic cruise either but iv got this 

Screenshot_20220312-094526_Samsung Internet.jpg

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53 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Or tune, the Ivan disabled ais and O2. Mines disconnected as well with Ivan's tune, no issues.

Actually, good point!

Mine is flashed to 'AIS on' but probably doesn't matter anyway.  I can only assume that there is no feedback mechanism enabled (with the plug disconnected) after the flash and so no fault codes.

That's my assumption only mind you, but whatever the case there are no errors.

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Basically, no one to blame but me for my engine light situation. I simply failed to do enough research to grasp that  when getting rid of the AIS plumbing, you need to do one or the other: either flash the ECU and disable the AIS during the flashing, or, leave the OEM solenoid connected. The cruise control loss would have been very, very bad.

 

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20 hours ago, betoney said:

Do you have factory cruise?  There 'might' be a difference between the factory Cruise and the aftermarket MCCruise but I have had the MCCruise almost the entire life of my bike and have used 15/16/17 counter shaft sprockets and 45 and 47 rear sprockets in different combinations with out ANY issues from the cruise control, or differences with the speedometer.  I would be very curious to see if the sprocket change was the culprit.

Yeah, the Tracer 900GT comes with it as standard, it's not an option.  It's entirely ECU based.  I'm VERY curious - but also dubious.  I mean, going +/- one countershaft sprocket tooth is very much normal, to have that break cruise randomly seems very odd.  Particularly as the prior 16/47 gearing was ALMOST as short, and it didn't cause a problem.  There's no sensor on the sprocket, so it's not like a specific sprocket issue (and indeed, the sprocket I took off to put this one on was an aftermarket generic sprocket).

It's so odd that while I was listing things that where done between when the last time I know it worked and now, I didn't even think to mention it.  Mentioned the tire change even (because ABS sensor) but just didn't think about the sprocket change as being a thing.  

17 hours ago, Warchild said:

Basically, no one to blame but me for my engine light situation. I simply failed to do enough research to grasp that  when getting rid of the AIS plumbing, you need to do one or the other: either flash the ECU and disable the AIS during the flashing, or, leave the OEM solenoid connected. The cruise control loss would have been very, very bad.

 

Oh, I'm super glad you mentioned this!  I have the block off plates literally sitting on my workbench waiting for the bike to come back from the shop so I can install them as I definitely wasn't going to install them before taking it in for warranty work!  I'd be SUPER pissed if I did all that just to have my CC break again.  

  

19 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

That's interesting?  I did a similar block off job recently on my vintage 2015 Tracer and I left the AIS connector swinging in the breeze, but I don't get any errors reported or engine light?  Should I have?

Maybe it's just a later model ECU difference thing?

The 2015 doesn't come with cruise control does it?  There's lots of ECU changed between the FJ and Tracer.

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As I offered a bit earlier, IMO the sprockets have no effect on CC functionality.

Daz, one option for an ECU flash is to "disable" the AIS (which actually just fools the ECU into thinking the AIS is still functioning,  So once flashed, the plug can just be taped over to weatherproof it and secured out of the way.  Otherwise, the AIS plug must be jumpered or kept connected to the bulky solenoid which then also must be secured out of the way.

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25 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

As I offered a bit earlier, IMO the sprockets have no effect on CC functionality.

Daz, one option for an ECU flash is to "disable" the AIS (which actually just fools the ECU into thinking the AIS is still functioning,  So once flashed, the plug can just be taped over to weatherproof it and secured out of the way.  Otherwise, the AIS plug must be jumpered or kept connected to the bulky solenoid which then also must be secured out of the way.

No effect on CC functionality sure.  But CC is tired into a number of seemingly unrelated systems on the bike, so a mismatch in RPM vs ABS related speed may cause the CC to be disabled for safety.  That's a safety system that actually does make some sense.  For example, it could automatically disable CC if RPM is way too high for speed to prevent racing the engine if the clutch slips.

Particularly when you consider the range of things that can disable the stock cruise control - as per @Warchild's posts above.  

It still seems a pretty big stretch, but it did start after I changed the gearing from 16/47 to 15/45.  

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16 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Daz, one option for an ECU flash is to "disable" the AIS (which actually just fools the ECU into thinking the AIS is still functioning,  So once flashed, the plug can just be taped over to weatherproof it and secured out of the way.  Otherwise, the AIS plug must be jumpered or kept connected to the bulky solenoid which then also must be secured out of the way.

Yes, I get what you're saying but when I had my flash done some years ago I opted to enable the AIS as I had a stock pipe at the time.  Given that, I assume the ECU is functioning as a standard ECU as far as the AIS control is concerned but there are no errors thrown up for me and my plug is connected to nothing ATM?!

I did ask elsewhere in the forum, at the time I was going to add my block off plates, if it was necessary to have the flash redone to turn off the AIS function but the reply was that it didn't matter as the block off plates turned the AIS off 'in hardware' anyway which kinda makes sense - but I was wondering what it meant in electronic terms for the ECU??

I might send a note to my 'flasher' and see what he thinks on the subject.  The agreement at the time was that the first flash was charged and any subsequent flashes were free/included  - so I could have it done but would have to send the ECU away.  If I don't have to, then I would prefer not to.

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Daz, did you get a new flash for your AM exhaust, and if so, could your "flasher" (who I presume wears a trench coat) possibly disable the AIS at that time and not tell you.  I also presume you had the fuel cut disabled and fan on temp lowered; did you guys have a top speed limiter like we did here that had to me disabled?

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Yesterday I got to put Warchild-wife on the back of the Tracer and ride to Bickleton, WA to pick up GT09 on the PNW-Grand Tour: the Bluebird Inn, the oldest operating tavern in the state of Washington.

Blubird.thumb.jpg.068d796ffa8468c9e28a3a50a2fec65a.jpg

We of course had to score one of their killer bacon cheeseburgers!  😋

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Sunday morning ritual, wash the bike - even though we have another 200-mile ride later today!  

 

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The view across the street afforded by those god-like, stupid-expensive, crystal-clear Rizoma 4D mirrors with aspheric lens:

 

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I am greatly appreciative that these exquisitely machined mirrors coupled with the EvoTech mirror extenders have actually made a huge positive difference is seeing everything behind me, because I am here to tell ya, these top-shelf components were some spendy shit. 😕

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