Can the xsr900 slip and assist clutch be used on the FJ?

[dundee]

@betoney and @dazzler24  here is a sum-up.

Having trouble getting the new slipper clutch (PartShark kit) to release on my 2015 FJ09.  
Here are the details on my install:

-    Clutch pack width measured 43.31 mm which is within the allowed range
-    Clutch pack order (from engine):    
o    Spring seat
o    Judder spring (raised edge facing outward as in Yamaha manual)
o    New friction plate 1
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    New friction plate 1
o    New clutch plate 1
o    New friction plate 1
-    total of 3 new friction plates, 1 new clutch plate, 6 old friction plates and 7 old clutch plates
-   New clutch spring bolts torqued to 7 ft pounds

When I install the clutch cover, with the pull rod turned to 4 o’clock position, I can engage it with the pull rod shaft.  But with the cover on, there is free play in the rotation of the pull rod shaft before it actually begins to release the clutch (see video). 

I suspect this is my problem as it seems like the pull rod is not engaging far enough.  Is this free play normal or not?  If not, what is the best way to address it as I suspect this is why the clutch does not release?

Here are some images and a very short video:  

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cp5z15LuIq_CdBDKcbRHCJgPlpMfUB_3?usp=sharing

What are your thoughts?

[betoney]

3 hours ago, dundee said:

@betoney and @dazzler24  here is a sum-up.

Having trouble getting the new slipper clutch (PartShark kit) to release on my 2015 FJ09.  
Here are the details on my install:

-    Clutch pack width measured 43.31 mm which is within the allowed range
-    Clutch pack order (from engine):    
o    Spring seat
o    Judder spring (raised edge facing outward as in Yamaha manual)
o    New friction plate 1
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    Old friction plate 2
o    Old Clutch plate 2
o    New friction plate 1
o    New clutch plate 1
o    New friction plate 1
-    total of 3 new friction plates, 1 new clutch plate, 6 old friction plates and 7 old clutch plates
-   New clutch spring bolts torqued to 7 ft pounds

When I install the clutch cover, with the pull rod turned to 4 o’clock position, I can engage it with the pull rod shaft.  But with the cover on, there is free play in the rotation of the pull rod shaft before it actually begins to release the clutch (see video). 

I suspect this is my problem as it seems like the pull rod is not engaging far enough.  Is this free play normal or not?  If not, what is the best way to address it as I suspect this is why the clutch does not release?

Here are some images and a very short video:  

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cp5z15LuIq_CdBDKcbRHCJgPlpMfUB_3?usp=sharing

What are your thoughts?

From the video, it looks like you can turn the rod clockwise until it stops and then install the actuating arm so the marks align.  You can always offset the arm one tooth outward and then modify the clutch cable settings accordingly.

I think of the lower adjustment as 'coarse' setting and the bar end of the cable as 'fine' adjustment.  I start with both as loose as possible, I tighten the lower adjuster so it gets close, and then 'fine tune' with the upper adjuster.

[dazzler24]

@dundee sorry for the late reply but have you resolved this issue now?

[smeller]

I'm thinking about doing the switch and since my clutch has 37.000 miles on it, it would probably make sense to order new friction plates as well instead of reusing the old. So on top of the partshark kit I should order 6x frictions plates 5TA163210000 and 7x clutch plates 5VY163250000 right?

Just asked my local dealer in Denmark for the price of the partshark kit:  906 $ ! It will be way cheaper just to import from the states and pay the shipping + tax..  

Edited November 16, 2020 by smeller

[dundee]

@dazzler24  decided to step back and remeasure all the plates before moving on to the clutch case.  The stack measured 43.21 which is in line with original measurement of 43.31.    Within range.  So moving onto the clutch case.  When you installed your own clutch case, is there any freeplay in the rod movement before the gears engage?  What were your own tips and trick to getting the engagement right on the clutch case rod? 

[estell]

2 hours ago, smeller said:

I'm thinking about doing the switch and since my clutch has 37.000 miles on it, it would probably make sense to order new friction plates as well instead of reusing the old.

You can order replacement discs but you may not need them. It depends on how hard you use the clutch.

My clutch had 36000 miles and it still measured the full thickness when I swapped in the discs from the Partshark kit. I bought the 2.3 mm clutch plate just in case I needed it to make up for wear in the re-used friction discs. I didn't use it.

[dazzler24]

6 hours ago, dundee said:

@dazzler24  decided to step back and remeasure all the plates before moving on to the clutch case.  The stack measured 43.21 which is in line with original measurement of 43.31.    Within range.  So moving onto the clutch case.  When you installed your own clutch case, is there any freeplay in the rod movement before the gears engage?  What were your own tips and trick to getting the engagement right on the clutch case rod? 

OK a couple of things come to mind.

1. Did you get the clutch damper spring (No 11) around the right way?

2. When I removed the clutch cover in the first place I left the clutch pull lever installed and observed that as the cover was being removed the pull lever (and hence the shaft it sits on) rotated anticlockwise to approximately a 10 o'clock position where I could feel the teeth disengage from the internal push rod that actuates the clutch plates.

This needs to be in that same position when reinstalling as the pull lever then rotates clockwise as the cover goes back on and ends up in the original position and no further adjustment was required (for me) when I did it this way.  And no, I don't recall any play of the order that you are showing in your video.

I'm suspecting that this is where your problem lays given that all of the measurements appear to be fine.

 

Some photos for your reference -

Clutch internal push rod position: -

 

Position of the pull lever before removing the cover with tension released from the pull lever: -

 

Position of the pull lever before installing the cover. Note the gap between the clutch cover and the crank case: -

 

Hope that all makes sense and what worked for me.  I'm sure there's more than one way to skin the cat though 🙂

Let us know how it goes.

[dundee]

The clutch "judder" spring 11 is facing outward (as it helps to disengage the clutch pack when the clutch is released).  I watched nearly all the videos and read your very well written posts!  Seriously, much appreciated that you took the time to make those posts and to respond to mine.  I agree with you that the free play is the issue.  Will work on this tonight or in the AM and respond back.  Thank you!

[skipperT]

As a heads up - 

The pull lever can be removed from the shaft by removing the circlip on the top which retains it. Take note of the spring position and how it sits on the “pull lever”. 
reinstall so that the dot lines up when the pull lever is gently rotated in the direction that the cable pulls it. Then install cable (at engine side) and last set your free play with the lever adjuster. 

-skip