wal Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 pricing the parts for this conversion here in UK and it comes to just over £500 one of the parts in Partshark kit (B90-16350-00-00 pressure plate assy) is not on uk dealers parts fiche (its 16351) if its the same part tried contacting Partshark to see if they ship to uk...but no reply aaaargh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted April 16, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 16, 2018 I need input! I installed the slip-assist clutch yesterday. Getting the OEM clutch basket nut off was difficult even after heating the nut to crack the thread sealant, using an impact gun, a clutch holding tool (reacting against the foot peg), AND holding the rear brake with it in 2nd gear. Getting the cover to line up with the "pull rod" was also a pain even when greased but I got the knack of it. The new clutch pack was almost at the max limit thickness without the 2.3 #2 clutch plate. Adjusting the distance between the lower cable stay and pull lever to spec was touchy. Problem is, while on the center stand, when I snick it down into 1st gear it bangs hard and clanks like never before,. I'm concerned something broke now. Maybe it's because I have it on the centerstand with no load on the rear tire but man, it's scary. There is about 1/16 of rotation "slop" in the pull lever shaft which the pull arm rotates. I've tried installing the pull lever on the shaft rotating the shaft to take up the slop each way but it just seems there is not enough travel in the mechanism to de-clutch the plates. It does shift up and down but it seems like it takes more effort on the foot lever, it bangs into gear a bit, and is more notchy; all of which are contrary to one of the major reasons of the swap. I'm going to take it apart when it cools down to see what I can find, recheck the components, assembly and clutch pack thickness (I have the 2.3 mm clutch plate just in case) but, but as I stated above, the total thickness was right up near max without it. Is the slop (free play) in the pull lever shaft rotation normal. Could being on the centerstand contributed along with dry clutch and friction plates (the manual did not say to pre-oil them). I've run the bike on the centerstand without issues before the clutch swap with no such issues. I'm hoping I don't find broken bits. I'm at a loss! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 did you soak the new plates/steel for a day before assembly??? just curious, was wondering if soaked pads required the thiner plate and if you didnt soak the pads the thick plate was needed??? i always soak my new plates/steel before assembly... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted April 16, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted April 16, 2018 On the bottom of the previous page I had some notes from my install. Read through each one and see if anything is out of line with your install. You said you have slop on your lever, did you align the triangle to the dot on the pull arm when there was tension? When I installed mine, I set the clutch cable at the pivot arm with the nut backed all the way loose at first then adjusted some tension to take up the slack along with the lever adjuster. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted April 16, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 16, 2018 did you soak the new plates/steel for a day before assembly??? just curious, was wondering if soaked pads required the thiner plate and if you didnt soak the pads the thick plate was needed??? i always soak my new plates/steel before assembly... That was one of my questions, as I installed the plates dry. As I stated, the XSR manual and everything I've read related to the swap did not mention soaking the plates first before installation. It does say to measure the the stack without applying oil; i.e., presumably with the plates dry (XSR manual page 5-44 at top). However, it next states "This step should be performed only if the friction and clutch plates were replaced.". So what is the intent? Used friction plates absorb oil and I believe swell and thus become thicker. I did not use the 2.3 mm clutch plate but bought it just in case because someone else said they needed it. I checked each clutch and friction plate and all were within spec. One thing I noted is some of the friction plates had the individual friction "pads" aligned on both sides and on others they pads were staggered but over-lapped on the opposite side. I used at leased 2 of the staggered pad friction plates. I'm wondering if I should pre-soak the plates but normally they get oiled during operation. Again, only 3 of the friction plates (from the Partshark "kit") were new or replacement. I did now just realize that while I staggered the last friction plate from all the other plates, I did not align it's tab with the punch mark per page 5-46 (near bottom). I wonder if that really matters as long as this last plate is staggered from the others but I'll change it if I did not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted April 16, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 16, 2018 On the bottom of the previous page I had some notes from my install. Read through each one and see if anything is out of line with your install. You said you have slop on your lever, did you align the triangle to the dot on the pull arm when there was tension? When I installed mine, I set the clutch cable at the pivot arm with the nut backed all the way loose at first then adjusted some tension to take up the slack along with the lever adjuster. I've read every related post in this and every other thread on this forum and the FZ forum. Including links to posts by others who have done this swap. I said there is slop in the pull lever shaft equal to about 1/16 of a full rotation. I believe, if I follow you, that I rotated the pull lever shaft counter-clockwise to put tension on the shaft and then tried to align the punch mark with the arrow on the case with 0 adjustment at both ends of the cable (which is the new version). I also just realized after my second or third attempt at installing the push lever I may have installed it with the "O" mark facing up but again I do not see how it would matter given the pivot is symmetrical on the lever but again, I'll verify and correct per spec. I will dry the plates and check the stack thickness and then oil them and see what the change is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted April 17, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted April 17, 2018 When I asked my mechanic about the swap, he said to soak the friction plates in oil for several hours, but don’t measure your clutch pack with it dripping oil, wipe them a bit then measure the pack. When you pull and release the clutch lever, does it feel normal? With only 3 springs the pull should be lighter but smooth like normal. When you say that it’s really clunking into gear makes me think that your clutch pack thickness might not be correct. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted April 17, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 17, 2018 I disassembled, patted off the oil and measured each plate at 120 degrees to derive an average thickness because the total pack thickness was over the max limit (I believe due to the different size friction and clutch plates cocking the veneer caliper reading), then added up the plate thickness and came in a bit under maximum. I very carefully reassembled the assembly, including evenly tightening(with a calibrated pound inch torque wrench (again) but this time with a new cover gasket. I reinstalled the push lever with a new washer and C-clip (and the "O" on the push lever down, and adjusted the cable at the bottom and then at the upper. I warmed it up to above 170 degrees and it seemed like it's now OK. I've found even with the FJ clutch pack that the cable free play needs to be less than spec. I then took it of the centered stand and tested engagement. It seemed as good as before and certainly has a lighter clutch pull but it is still the noisiest clutch among the dozens of bikes I've owned over the last 42 years; which a couple of FZ/FJ/XSR experts have personally told me is normal. Now onto the APE manual CCT (I have the TSB CCT done and don't trust it still), a 2009~2014 R1 front brake master cylinder with Spiegler lines front and rear (I've been running Vesrah RJL pads in front and may go to Galfer rotors rather than R1 plates for less centripetal effect and maintain easier turning), valve adjustment, TB sync check, fresh iridium plugs, coolant flush and change, engine oil and filter (I run Shell Rotella T6 with a Purolater BOSS filter), and I should be good to go. And then it's on to the suspension... Thanks for everyone's input but the clutch proof will be in the pudding whenever it stops snowing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted April 17, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted April 17, 2018 Glad to hear that the install seems to have worked out, I’m surprised that your clutch is still excessively noisy, after my install the first thing I noticed upon starting the bike was drastically reduced noise. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted April 17, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 17, 2018 Maybe I need to ride (snow tonight again, grrrr...) and it was only run in my (heated, AC, carpeted, with Handy Lift shop), so the noise was obviously louder and contained. At idle in neutral it's OK, or is it with the clutch pulled or in gear it's noisy, or is it the other way around? I'll check but I'm old and have no short term memory, and older memories are fading fast... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 IMHO the slipper is indeed more “rattle-y”. Yamaha added some sound suppression to the inside of the crankcase cover to quiet it down starting with my17. Would have made more sense to give us springs on the back of the primary drive gear, IMHO. Glad you figured it out. I was going to ask if that photo was from before the install? Because it shows 6 springs and the pressure plate, when the slipper has only 3 plus the 3 “ramps”. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pmych Posted May 13, 2018 Share Posted May 13, 2018 I installed the XSR900 slipper clutch yesterday and just got back from my first test ride. I wanted to weigh in for anyone following this thread but are on the fence about taking the plunge. First, true confession, my eye wandered recently and I test rode a Triumph Tiger 800. It was exactly what everything I'd read said it was. Smooth as butter, but not exciting. It reaffirmed my choice of the FJ. Still, I couldn't get that smooth Tiger clutch out of my mind. I'm happy to say that, for me, the slipper clutch has cured that itch. It was not a tough job and my clutch engagement/disengagement is far more forgiving now. As an added bonus, going six springs to three reduced lever pull, and I'm no longer pitched forward if I'm a little aggressive with my downshifts. I would do it again in a heartbeat and recommend it to anyone considering it. As always YMMV, but for me, the slipper clutch is on par with the ECU flash as the best improvements I've made to the bike's performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted May 13, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted May 13, 2018 I'm happy to say that, for me, the slipper clutch has cured that itch. It was not a tough job and my clutch engagement/disengagement is far more forgiving now. As an added bonus, going six springs to three reduced lever pull, and I'm no longer pitched forward if I'm a little aggressive with my downshifts. I would do it again in a heartbeat and recommend it to anyone considering it. As always YMMV, but for me, the slipper clutch is on par with the ECU flash as the best improvements I've made to the bike's performance. It sounds like you enjoy it every bit as much as I do. For only $230 and about an hour down time, it’s a very worthwhile improvement. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theblade Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 Hello, I have a new OE Yamaha Slipper Clutch Kit that I bought for my FJ09 and intented to install in summer but I sold my FJ09 as I intend to buy the GT model. Whoever is interested in the Slipper Clutch kit please pm me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 Hello, I have a new OE Yamaha Slipper Clutch Kit that I bought for my FJ09 and intented to install in summer but I sold my FJ09 as I intend to buy the GT model. Whoever is interested in the Slipper Clutch kit please pm me. You could post an add in the Classified's section if you want. '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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