Highway Stability

[dakota]

Thanks. My wife thinks I don't need another bike, however the upswing is I can do whatever I want to this one. (Limited garage space has much to do with this).
 
I'm not a particularly big guy but despite adjusting the stock settings the bike still seems to pogo stick more than I'd like, especially hitting a bump mid corner. Sounds like some work to the forks and rear shock is in order.

[JJM]

Made my own out of some spare kydex. No buffeting, no noise, just clean air on my chest and helmet (similar to my Harley that had not screen/front fairing.

And how was it you just happened to have some Kydex laying around?  
Nice job, BTW.

 
I may or may not have made a few things meant to hold other things.

[BentAero]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll give things a try without the windscreen. Might get a National Cycle V-stream in the sport height, perhaps cut that one down if need be. 
If it isn't too personal how much did you spend on your suspension mods/set up? Changing preload, etc is well within my abailities, but I wouldn't even know where to start looking for someone to do a complete suspension revamp for me.
 
Over $3,000 for Ohlins  NX-30 fork inserts and YF 535 shock.  I don't want to remember the total cost, and I am not sure if I got those Ohlins numbers right.  Norwest, forum vender, re-valved the shocks. Ohlins is good stuff, but way overpriced, and these components are not really the best of Ohlins.  I use to ride/race dirt bikes and have had so many high end suspensions  on different bikes that I cannot (or don't want to) tolerate anything less. 

I believe Norwest or Forks by Matt (don't remember which) sells the YA535 for $1038, the YA335 is much less $, but doesn't have compression adjustment or the hydraulic preloader like the YA535 does. I don't know what he charges for the NIX-30 cartridges, but they retail for $1313, springs will run around $150, so the whole deal should end up being around $2500. 
The only thing 'better' would be Ohlins 25mm gas cartridges and a TTX shock, but those are only offered for hypersport bikes. Sport/Touring riders would never pay what those cost. 

[xlxr]

The shock compression adjuster is useless, has almost no real effect.

[pattonme]

@xlxr are you referring to the Ohlins 535's adjustment? That's unfortunate though if I remember correctly it's for slow-rate compression so it's not something you'll feel in the butt dyno. It's more of an anti-squat setting.
 
And yes it's me who sells various Ohlins bits at special forum pricing. PM for quote on the NIX30 in particular.
 
If you want to try the gas-charged Ohlins 25mm I can get them for ~1700 for the 09-14 R1. Obviously the FZ/FJ forks are longer so some "extending" would be needed but I doubt it'll be all that involved. Once you guys make me rich (ha!) I was going to source a set for my personal R&D.

[xlxr]

"xlxr are you referring to the Ohlins 535's adjustment? That's unfortunate though if I remember correctly it's for slow-rate compression so it's not something you'll feel in the butt dyno. It's more of an anti-squat setting."
 
Yes, I have been told different things, so I am not sure what it is supposed to do.
If it is for anti-squat, I don't feel the need for anti-squat anything.  But that may be because it is working.  I was told that it is really meant to equalize the pressures on either side of the pistons. 
 
I have to assume anti-squat is the same as low speed compression damping.
 
But why have an external adjuster if you cannot feel its effect?  I have mine set in the middle and quit playing with it.
 
Every now and then,  I seem to hit a small bump where the shock just stops compressing.  If I had a dual rate spring, I would think that the spring was not compressing through the heavier final spring rate.  Nothing major, just unusual.  Next time I feel it do that, I will  turn around around and hit the same bump at the same speed to see if I can duplicate that feeling and then play with the adjuster to see if it goes away. 
 
 

[pattonme]

slow-rate compression is for undulations but more commonly how the backend responds to being hard on the gas. Any sort of decent bump activates the high-speed circuit characteristics. That said the 'slow' does influence how quickly the valving comes into play so it's not without it's use.
 
I generally run comps at the wide open end of the scale and only firm them up for track duty since throttle application on streets is very tame by comparison.

[foxtrot722]

Try to take the stock windshield completely off. That greatly reduced helmet buffeting for me, then I cut about 3 inches of the top of the windshield and also shortened the bottom, and have no buffeting. I never ride in conditions where I need a full shield. 
There are several other threads on high speed stability.  Start with proper suspension set up, which may vary with your weight. Generally, the major contributor of high speed stability problems start with front end too high, rear end too low, resulting in rear chassis pitch that makes the front end too light. Raise the forks in the triple clamps can reduce this tendency.   Be careful on the first test ride, start slowly and give one handle bar hand grip a small bump to make sure the bike is still stable, increase speed a little, and try again.  As far as I have read, everyone with some wobble problem has found a solution of some sort or another.
 
http://fj-09.org/thread/3858/high-speed-death-wobble
 
http://fj-09.org/thread/774/mt09-fj-tracer-steering-wobbling
 
I can't remember what's discussed in those two threads, but they will keep you busy reading for awhile.
 
By the way, I do not have any wobble problems with my bike.  Ohlins suspension, properly set up, I never ride two up, don't have back case or saddle bags, and too chicken to ride over 90 mph.
 

Would you please post a picture of the cut windshield, showing detail of the cut on the top and bottom? What did you used to cut it with? Thanks, David 

[xlxr]

My windshield is just a little smaller than the black one a few posts back.  My suggestion would be to cut an inch off the top and test ride, cut another inch off the top if needed.  What works for me, may not work for you.  I am 6' 3" and sit on top of a Air Hawk air cushion.  Windshields just don't work for me.
 
I used an 18 volt circular saw with hardened tips, normally used for wood.  It was just what I had and I did not care if I broke the windshield or not.  I put a layer of painters tape, light glue that pull off easy, to prevent scratching the plastic.  I had to push the saw very slowly and carefully.  The cut was a bit rough, maybe some time next year I will use a hand file to smooth out the cut.
 

[bgigharbor]

I use an MRA screen that is shorter than stock. It works very well for me here in hot and steamy South Florida. I'm 6' 1".  
I might put on a clip on blade for longer trips though.
 
Check it out.
 
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/mra-touringscreen-windscreen-for-yamaha-fj-09-15-16
I had a bit of weave, no "death wobble".
I took my handguards off and put on heavy SS Sato racing bar ends, tightened up the preload front and rear. Stable right up to the speed limiter...
YMMV

fddriver2, I want to thank you for mentioning the mra screen.  I was not aware of this small screen for the fj09 before your posting.  Weird that it is so small yet they call it a "touring" screen. 
The bike is so much better and more fun for me now.  And it looks better in real life than the pics imo.
 
Thanks!
 
One possible improvement would be if a person had no handguards or more compact handguards the screen could be wider down low and I think give slightly better protection yet.  But I know windscreen manufacturers have to build to stock configurations to make money.
 

[fddriver2]

No worries. Glad it suits you... I have used the mra on longer trips and have found it to be fine for most of there riding I do. I don't run n the interstates much, so the mra works for me.