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Sore clutch wrist - bad angle?


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TL;DR:  My wrist hurts, can one adjust the clutch lever angle independently from the mirror and hand wind deflector?
 
 
I did my first long distance ride with my 2015 FJ-09.  Rode to Ogdensburg for a package and back, then rode around for the rest of the day.  Probably 5 hours of riding with 2 or 3 10 minute breaks.
Mostly highway until I got back to Ottawa, did some city riding and then rural country roads.
 
After three and a half hours, my left wrist started hurting when I'd pull the clutch.  on my former bike I had the clutch and brake at roughly 30 degree down angles from the grips.  The FJ09, they are pretty close to even height with the grips.  I lifted my left elbow so that I would force my hand to pull the lever from roughly the same angle I would have on the KLR, and my wrist didn't hurt much, if at all pulling from that angle. 
 
When I got home I looked briefly, I haven't had much time as the wife and my daughter got home.  It looked like adjusting the clutch angle would also affect the mirror and the whole left side wind deflector angle too.  Am I correct in saying that?
Can the clutch angle alone be changed?
 
Current Ride - 2003 Kawasaki KLR650
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Regrettably, altering the clutch angle changes everything. Perhaps 'toughing' it out for a few more rides may build up the required muscles so it no longer bothers you?

'15 FJ09

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Have you changed the stock clutch lever? It may help to put an aftermarket adjustable lever on also. 

 
 
As well as a comfortable bend bar. I hated the stock bar.

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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Try a combination of rotating your bars back/down a bit and then moving the clutch/mirror clamp down... worked well for me in relieving the stress on the wrist and around my thumb area. The bars will sweep back and down a bit... feels more natural to me.
 
 
Do you need to use thread locker if you losen the bolts to move bar down
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On a related peeve, when I adjust my clutch and brake lever to be at the same angle, the 2 mirror stalks stick up at different angles.
The way this thing is designed, you can have the levers match or the mirror stalks match, but not both. I can't imagine it was on purpose.
It's a '17.
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On a related peeve, when I adjust my clutch and brake lever to be at the same angle, the 2 mirror stalks stick up at different angles. The way this thing is designed, you can have the levers match or the mirror stalks match, but not both. I can't imagine it was on purpose.
It's a '17.
Maddening, isn't it!!!

Riding a fully-farkled 2019 MT-09 Tracer 900 GT from my bayside home in South East Queensland, Australia.   

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Ah that is a terrible design, imo.
Thanks guys for the responses.
 
I'll add new bars and taller risers to the list of things to buy (I find that even with the 1" risers it feels too low still).
For now I'll see if I can rotate the bars a bit, and hopefully repeated use will build the muscles for that clutch pull.
 
- Mark
Current Ride - 2003 Kawasaki KLR650
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I removed my hand guards just for this reason. When my clutch/brake is at a comfortable angle for me, the hand guards are rotated so that the top is just below my knuckles which makes them useless. The mirror stalks are still fairly even for me, surprisingly. I think a set of mirror extenders might help.
 
Has anyone tried modifying the stock hand guards so they only attach from the bar end? I'm curious if they'd be stable that way. You'd be able to adjust them independent of the rest of the controls.
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Any suggestions on aftermarket levers?  I see them priced all over the place. I'll pay more if it helps with the wrist.  

I personally like Pazzo adjustable levers.  I got full length clutch and shorty (2 finger) length brake levers.  I cant imagine riding a bike without adjustable levers, the difference in feel is dramatic. The Pazzo's are expensive, but they are the originals, you will find a ton of copycat Chinese knock-offs on Ebay for a fraction of the cost.
 
 

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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Any suggestions on aftermarket levers?  I see them priced all over the place. I'll pay more if it helps with the wrist.  

I think the levers will help but I found more benefit by switching to the R1 clutch cable. I did this mainly to avoid the problem of cable breaking caused by the sharp bend near the lever but there was a big reduction in the effort required to pull the lever. The R1 cable seems to be of higher quality and is also smoother than the OE cable in operation. If you want to try this then check out the threads on clutch cable breaking.
 
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