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Chain and Sprocket Replacement


BVEBRAD

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I got a new chain and sprockets for Christmas.  A new D.I.D. 525 VX chain and JT rear sprocket with a Superlite front with damper.  If anyone can offer any helpful hints regarding taking on the job replacing the old ones it would be greatly appreciated.  My 2 concerns are anti-lock sensors and shift linkage.  I also need to look up torque specs.  I got 16500k out of the originals but they are definitely in need of replacement.  My dealer quoted 3 hrs. labor which is total BS.
Brad
Selbyville, DE
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It’s no harder than any other bike with a chain. You’ll need a tool to rivet the new master link or one of these
http://www.moto-chains.com/site/898528/product/mstr%20-%20screw
As far as the abs sensor, unbolt it and move it out of the way. Bolt it back in place when you’re ready.

Let’s go Brandon

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I got a new chain and sprockets for Christmas.  A new D.I.D. 525 VX chain and JT rear sprocket with a Superlite front with damper.  If anyone can offer any helpful hints regarding taking on the job replacing the old ones it would be greatly appreciated.  My 2 concerns are anti-lock sensors and shift linkage.  I also need to look up torque specs.  I got 16500k out of the originals but they are definitely in need of replacement.  My dealer quoted 3 hrs. labor which is total BS.
3 hours?  That is one extremely incompetent mechanic.  Taking your time and cleaning the parts as you go, it should take less than 1 hour.
 
Some parts you will probably need:
a chain breaker/rivet tool. 
Impact gun (for front sprocket nut),
torque wrench,
30mm(?) socket (I'm not sure exactly)
thread locker for rear sprocket nuts
replacement retaining nut for front sprocket
 

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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As far as breaking the chain goes, I use a dremel to grind off the heads of a couple of the pins and pop the side plate off with a big flathead screwdriver. Takes a couple of minuets.

Let’s go Brandon

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I was wondering why it is necessary to replace the nut on the front sprocket.  I've heard this before.  I wasn't planning on doing so but will if it's better to do so.
IMG_1661.jpg
 
the nut has 2 tabs that get punched onto the shaft to help lock it in place...they can be reused but its your choice... I reused mine but put a dab of blue locktite and re punched the tabs... 
2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp
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This is the best guide I've seen for replacement: 
 

 

A couple comments on this video. Overall very good with lots of detail. But I have a couple issues, 1 minor and 1 that's more important. Here is the important item. When he is pressing on the side plate, then measuring the width of the side plate with calipers, he presses it on a full .2 mm too far. This is not acceptable, way to much compression on the O-ring, X-ring or what ever. This will cause the O-ring to wear out early and will become the weak link. Take the time and do not press the side plate on too far. Minor item, when he starts to flair the rivet, the flaring tip is extended too far. Look at the photo above and you can see the tip is extended more than it needs to be. It only needs to be extended a little bit, just enough to work. Too far and you may bend the flaring tip. john
 
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  • 1 year later...
On 12/31/2017 at 11:57 AM, norcal616 said:

IMG_1661.jpg
 
the nut has 2 tabs that get punched onto the shaft to help lock it in place...they can be reused but its your choice... I reused mine but put a dab of blue locktite and re punched the tabs... 

Having a little difficulty prying up what has been punched down into the shaft so that I can remove the 30mm. (Cannot seem to get anything in there to pry up) 

What di you use to pry it up?

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6 minutes ago, Mr Moto said:

Having a little difficulty prying up what has been punched down into the shaft so that I can remove the 30mm. (Cannot seem to get anything in there to pry up) 

What di you use to pry it up?

I hammered a hardened punch that fit into the little slot

2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp
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59 minutes ago, Mr Moto said:

Having a little difficulty prying up what has been punched down into the shaft so that I can remove the 30mm. (Cannot seem to get anything in there to pry up) 

What di you use to pry it up?

Medium width flat-head screwdriver.

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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You also don’t need an impact to loosen the nut. Stand on the right side and lean over the seat. Push the rear brake lever with one arm and use the other to loosen the nut. Install the same way. Just use a torque wrench. My original nut is on it’s 3rd chain. I’ll replace it on the next new one. 

Let’s go Brandon

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15 hours ago, Mr Moto said:

Having a little difficulty prying up what has been punched down into the shaft so that I can remove the 30mm. (Cannot seem to get anything in there to pry up) 

What di you use to pry it up?

I didn't bother prying up the indents. My impact wrench loosened the nut and pushed up the indents all in a fraction of a second.

2015 red FJ-09: Cal Sci screen, Sargent seat, ECU flash, slider combo, cruise, Rizoma bars, Matts forks, JRi shock, slipper clutch

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  • 1 year later...

Does anyone know the size and thread pitch of the rear sprocket nuts please? Probolt only list for MT09 and say M10 x 1.25, but then include six nuts in the pack, so I’m a bit suspicious.

Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...)

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