BVEBRAD Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 I got a new chain and sprockets for Christmas. A new D.I.D. 525 VX chain and JT rear sprocket with a Superlite front with damper. If anyone can offer any helpful hints regarding taking on the job replacing the old ones it would be greatly appreciated. My 2 concerns are anti-lock sensors and shift linkage. I also need to look up torque specs. I got 16500k out of the originals but they are definitely in need of replacement. My dealer quoted 3 hrs. labor which is total BS. Brad Selbyville, DE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member micah2074 Posted December 31, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 31, 2017 It’s no harder than any other bike with a chain. You’ll need a tool to rivet the new master link or one of these http://www.moto-chains.com/site/898528/product/mstr%20-%20screw As far as the abs sensor, unbolt it and move it out of the way. Bolt it back in place when you’re ready. Let’s go Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted December 31, 2017 Supporting Member Share Posted December 31, 2017 I got a new chain and sprockets for Christmas. A new D.I.D. 525 VX chain and JT rear sprocket with a Superlite front with damper. If anyone can offer any helpful hints regarding taking on the job replacing the old ones it would be greatly appreciated. My 2 concerns are anti-lock sensors and shift linkage. I also need to look up torque specs. I got 16500k out of the originals but they are definitely in need of replacement. My dealer quoted 3 hrs. labor which is total BS. 3 hours? That is one extremely incompetent mechanic. Taking your time and cleaning the parts as you go, it should take less than 1 hour. Some parts you will probably need: a chain breaker/rivet tool. Impact gun (for front sprocket nut), torque wrench, 30mm(?) socket (I'm not sure exactly) thread locker for rear sprocket nuts replacement retaining nut for front sprocket ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member micah2074 Posted December 31, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 31, 2017 As far as breaking the chain goes, I use a dremel to grind off the heads of a couple of the pins and pop the side plate off with a big flathead screwdriver. Takes a couple of minuets. Let’s go Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kernowjim Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 This is the best guide I've seen for replacement: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BVEBRAD Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 I was wondering why it is necessary to replace the nut on the front sprocket. I've heard this before. I wasn't planning on doing so but will if it's better to do so. Brad Selbyville, DE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 I was wondering why it is necessary to replace the nut on the front sprocket. I've heard this before. I wasn't planning on doing so but will if it's better to do so. the nut has 2 tabs that get punched onto the shaft to help lock it in place...they can be reused but its your choice... I reused mine but put a dab of blue locktite and re punched the tabs... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member peporter Posted January 3, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted January 3, 2018 This is the best guide I've seen for replacement: What an excellent video! Thanks for posting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 This is the best guide I've seen for replacement: A couple comments on this video. Overall very good with lots of detail. But I have a couple issues, 1 minor and 1 that's more important. Here is the important item. When he is pressing on the side plate, then measuring the width of the side plate with calipers, he presses it on a full .2 mm too far. This is not acceptable, way to much compression on the O-ring, X-ring or what ever. This will cause the O-ring to wear out early and will become the weak link. Take the time and do not press the side plate on too far. Minor item, when he starts to flair the rivet, the flaring tip is extended too far. Look at the photo above and you can see the tip is extended more than it needs to be. It only needs to be extended a little bit, just enough to work. Too far and you may bend the flaring tip. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Moto Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 On 12/31/2017 at 11:57 AM, norcal616 said: the nut has 2 tabs that get punched onto the shaft to help lock it in place...they can be reused but its your choice... I reused mine but put a dab of blue locktite and re punched the tabs... Having a little difficulty prying up what has been punched down into the shaft so that I can remove the 30mm. (Cannot seem to get anything in there to pry up) What di you use to pry it up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 6 minutes ago, Mr Moto said: Having a little difficulty prying up what has been punched down into the shaft so that I can remove the 30mm. (Cannot seem to get anything in there to pry up) What di you use to pry it up? I hammered a hardened punch that fit into the little slot 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted January 4, 2019 Supporting Member Share Posted January 4, 2019 59 minutes ago, Mr Moto said: Having a little difficulty prying up what has been punched down into the shaft so that I can remove the 30mm. (Cannot seem to get anything in there to pry up) What di you use to pry it up? Medium width flat-head screwdriver. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member micah2074 Posted January 4, 2019 Premium Member Share Posted January 4, 2019 You also don’t need an impact to loosen the nut. Stand on the right side and lean over the seat. Push the rear brake lever with one arm and use the other to loosen the nut. Install the same way. Just use a torque wrench. My original nut is on it’s 3rd chain. I’ll replace it on the next new one. Let’s go Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member estell Posted January 4, 2019 Premium Member Share Posted January 4, 2019 15 hours ago, Mr Moto said: Having a little difficulty prying up what has been punched down into the shaft so that I can remove the 30mm. (Cannot seem to get anything in there to pry up) What di you use to pry it up? I didn't bother prying up the indents. My impact wrench loosened the nut and pushed up the indents all in a fraction of a second. 2015 red FJ-09: Cal Sci screen, Sargent seat, ECU flash, slider combo, cruise, Rizoma bars, Matts forks, JRi shock, slipper clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted April 26, 2020 Share Posted April 26, 2020 Does anyone know the size and thread pitch of the rear sprocket nuts please? Probolt only list for MT09 and say M10 x 1.25, but then include six nuts in the pack, so I’m a bit suspicious. Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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