captainscarlet Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 Winter is showing no sign of releasing its grip just yet and that has triggered thoughts of bike mods in me. I had convinced myself that nothing needed doing to the Tracer this winter but I've suddenly found myself thinking about brakes. I have read numerous posts and the most effective mod seems to be simply replacing the brake pads, with the hot favourite being EBC's HH pads, specifically FA252HH. Is this still the case or are there other brands I should be looking at? Another thought that popped up was changing the brake lines to stainless steel. I am actually due a brake fluid change and thought "why not do the lines while the fluid is out". However I'm somewhat confused about swapping out the lines. In my ignorance I thought it would simply be a case of changing 3 lines: one from front master cylinder to left front brake caliper, one from front left caliper to front right caliper and one from rear master cylinder to rear caliper. However some googling suggests that I also need to change the lines from the master cylinders to the ABS pump? I'm somewhat confused about this because the lines to and from the ABS pump are already a solid tube aren't they? In that case why do they need replacing? Regardless, the question also arises how much of a difference steel lines really make in the grand scheme of things? My existing rubber lines are in very good condition and I'm certainly not going to follow the ridiculous advice in the handbook that says these must be changed every 4 years just because. Another area of consideration is of course discs. I did notice in the latter weeks of my riding before winter hibernation that I had a slight pulsing from my brakes. I cleaned the discs but it's still there. It's not bad but now that I know it's there I do notice it. From what I've read on this and other forums it's not that uncommon. Obviously I could change the discs, which will also entail new pads, but what is the considered wisdom on replacement discs? I'm not sure I want to faff around with bigger discs unless the swap is relatively straightforward. Any and all input appreciated. CS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmark101 Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 I have had decent results with the EBC brand pads on other bikes, but have not tried them on the Tracer. If you are willing to spend the extra money, Vesrah pads are the way to go. Excellent braking power without an abrupt initial bite. Nice linear feel to them as well so they are easy to modulate. I also used them on my track bike and lap after lap they were consistent with no fade to speak of. There is nothing like spending a day riding with friends in the grip of a shared obsession. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member roadrash83 Posted March 2, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted March 2, 2020 I'm running EBC HH sinsterd pads. Speigler lines and 320mm front rotors. The biggest Improvements are the Speigler lines and good quality pads. He who dies with the most toys wins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainscarlet Posted March 2, 2020 Author Share Posted March 2, 2020 4 minutes ago, roadrash83 said: I'm running EBC HH sinsterd pads. Speigler lines and 320mm front rotors. The biggest Improvements are the Speigler lines and good quality pads. Can you say something about installing the lines? Did you do it yourself and is it the pig of a job everyone says? CS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member roadrash83 Posted March 2, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted March 2, 2020 The line Install is not hard if you take your time and have moderate wrenching skills, I cut the factory line to speed removal. The hardest part of the job is not getting brake fluid on any painted surface. Make sure you have a shop manual and use it. Also take a lot of pictures of line routing before you take anything apart. He who dies with the most toys wins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainscarlet Posted March 2, 2020 Author Share Posted March 2, 2020 (edited) 13 minutes ago, roadrash83 said: The line Install is not hard if you take your time and have moderate wrenching skills, I cut the factory line to speed removal. The hardest part of the job is not getting brake fluid on any painted surface. Make sure you have a shop manual and use it. Also take a lot of pictures of line routing before you take anything apart. Ok thanks. Just to clarify, what are you cutting and where on the diagram below? CS Edited March 2, 2020 by captainscarlet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member roadrash83 Posted March 2, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted March 2, 2020 I cut the lines at the #1 front and rear lines, under the tank below #9 and pulled them out. Also took off the fuel tank, side panels and panels under the seat. I HATE BRAKE FLUID and didn't want to take any chances of getting brake fluid on painted parts. The job is not hard just takes a little bit of time and care. He who dies with the most toys wins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chitown Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 Love my Vesrah pads. If you don't believe rubber lines should be replaced in four years, don't. While they will improve feel a bit I always wait to upgrade the lines until I'm ready to replace the oem lines. If you don't trust the factory guidelines but trust your ability to inspect/replace when necessary it's all good. If you don't wish to replace the hard lines shop for lines that don't. There's no single objective answer to this imo. Hard lines can get damaged, rust, and if they need to be replaced at some point it might be made simpler by going all flex to begin with. Nobody wants to be in the position of having to order stock hard lines and install them and getting custom aftermarket hard lines or making yourself is possible but certainly more of a pita than with flex. I don't always replace hard lines with flex line upgrades but will consider: Do sellers offer kits that retain the stock hard lines? Will it result in fewer line junctions? More real estate for other items or maintenance? Will it be easier to bleed? EG my Miata has a clutch line in three sections, two hard, one flex. One of the hard lines is near a wheel and more prone to rust, damage, known to cause bleeding issues and takes up a lot of real estate. The other section is on the firewall, nice and tidy, unlikely to ever get damaged, etc. But keeping it means more junctions. The sellers offer options to replace it all with one run or anything in between. Deciding is owner preference. As to pulsing if you're certain it's not a disc or pad surface issue I'd check the runout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhchris Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 Wow! I've never owned a bike which recommended replacing brake line every four years! (Fluid maybe, but not the lines.) Is this another "Yamaha maintenance thing" like spark plugs every 4k miles? My little FJ is starting to rival a Ducati in terms of wrenching required. YIKES! 1968 Triumph Bonneville 650 1971 Norton Commando Roadster 2002 Harley 1200 Sportster 2003 Honda ST 1300 2016 FJ 09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainscarlet Posted March 2, 2020 Author Share Posted March 2, 2020 (edited) 29 minutes ago, nhchris said: Wow! I've never owned a bike which recommended replacing brake line every four years! (Fluid maybe, but not the lines.) Is this another "Yamaha maintenance thing" like spark plugs every 4k miles? My little FJ is starting to rival a Ducati in terms of wrenching required. YIKES! I'm pretty sure most bike manufacturers have the same recommendations. It's not unique to Yamaha. According to my handbook spark plugs are every 20000 km or 12000 miles in old money. CS Edited March 2, 2020 by captainscarlet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted March 2, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted March 2, 2020 @captainscarlet - I changed the brake lines a few months ago, here is the write-up I posted. I HIGHLY recommend using Spiegler lines as you can clock the banjo fitting to fine tune the fit, as far as I know, they are the ONLY manufacturer that offers this feature. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainscarlet Posted March 2, 2020 Author Share Posted March 2, 2020 Thanks for all the input chaps; as ever this forum does not disappoint. I think at this stage I'm gonna go for EBC HH pads and possibly new original size but not necessarily OE manufactured discs. At some point in the future when it's time to replace the OE lines I will upgrade to steel versions. CS 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 I agree with that approach @captainscarlet. The EBC HH pads are the easiest swap and are a good upgrade. I’d flush the brake fluid at the same time as that makes a difference too. Changing disc/rotor size is dependent on finding someone to supply or make the caliper spacers. The combination of 320mm rotors and upgraded pads has made the brakes really effective without adding any worry about them being too hair trigger. I’ve been able to swap to a shorter length brake lever and prefer being able to keep most of my hand gripping the bar, using only two fingers for braking. If you can find a source of spacers then I’d do that next if you are going to the expense of fitting new rotors anyway. I’ll only consider changing the brake lines when it becomes a needed service item. Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted March 2, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted March 2, 2020 While on the topic of brakes. What is the verdict of 'high performance' rotors and calipers? Any truth to the magical stopping abilities with Galfer rotors or Brembo calipers or is it marketing hype? ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 Interesting read on Galfer rotors. It confirms what I’d read elsewhere about the advantages of wavy discs as well as being fully floating. Galfer Superbike Wave Rotor Review While drivers these days seem to be paying more attention to their... 1 Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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