Stuck on DC USB port install. Please help.

[petshark]

1. I'm trying to install a double USB/voltmeter instead of the standard DC port but I can't find a way to remove this pin without breaking it. Does anyone know how this works?

2. I also don't see how to disconnect the OEM DC. It's supposed to be with a screw collar but I can't get it loose.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

[petshark]

btw this is what the part looks like in the service manual

[piotrek]

It is a push pin that you need to pry up (just under the pin cap) with a small screwdriver. The screw collar on the socket is just tight. There is also a rubber gasket keeping it tight. Punch the collar loose in CCW direction with a screwdriver or a small punch.

Edited January 17, 2021 by piotrek

[betoney]

@petshark - those little retainer pins can be tricky because they have tabs that expand when inserted through the hole, similar to the brake line retainers on the front fender.  If you have a small flat head screwdriver or a pick, you can try to compress the tabs from the bottom while pulling it out from the top.  I personally find them to be a pain in the ass and would rather just cut them off and use a zip tie through the hole.

[texscottyd]

Yep, that little snap connector is a bit weird.  I also used a small screwdriver & pick that I have (looks like a dentist tool) to gently pry it open from the top...  that approach worked fine, and I was able to close it back up when I was finished with the wiring.    

That’s just a plastic collar holding the assembly in place, which threads off like a standard nut.  Gently tapping with a punch should knock it loose.    

Good luck with the swap.   I really like the dual USB outlet on my FJ 

[petshark]

Thank you! It was both quite easy once I knew what I had to do. 
Now I’m confronted with the fact that the new cylinder is a little bit wider than the OEM one. I installed the same thing on my Versys a few months back and it was also tight but I could turn it in on it’s thread. That is not possible with the Tracer it seems.

@texscottyd how did you solve this? I don’t have any tools to enlarge the hole and am reluctant to have metal scrapings falling on the bike.

[smeller]

When I installed this voltmeter/charger on mine.

USB Charger PD Quick Charge 3.0 Chargers Socket Adapter Dual USB Charger With LED Voltmeter And Cable For 12 24V Car Motorcycles| | - AliExpress

---

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

I had to use a step/cone drill and tried to catch the metal scrapings with paper. To prevent rust on the mild steel bracket I used some frame touch up paint.

Title: Titanium Nitride Coated Steel Step Drill Bit Set

---

Found on Google from harborfreight.com

Title: YAMAHA BLACK METALLIC - MBL2 PAINT FRAME & SWINGARM TOUCH UP KIT 30ML MOTORBIKE | eBay

---

Found on Google from ebay.co.uk

 

Edited January 17, 2021 by smeller

[texscottyd]

32 minutes ago, petshark said:

@texscottyd how did you solve this? I don’t have any tools to enlarge the hole and am reluctant to have metal scrapings falling on the bike

I forgot about that little detail...  sorry!   The opening needs to be enlarged  just slightly to get the new outlet to fit.  I did it in about 10 minutes with a combination hand file and a grinding stone in my power drill.   The metal is soft, and you only need a fraction more clearance... it sounds more complicated than it actually is.    Just stuff a towel down underneath the hole if you want to try and capture any metal shavings.  

[Ride365]

Is that USB outlet with LED voltmeter water resistant at all?

[PhotoAl]

Good question, left the top open overnight when it rained and got water in it.  Think I pulled it out and shook out the water, it worked fine but would recommend consistently doing that.  It as a good reminder to keep the top closed - rode all day in the rain with it no problems.  That was on my F800GT - my Tracer GT is a garage queen so far and hasn't ben out in the rain - yet! I looked at the bottom of the one I have to put on the Tracer GT and it is sealed but think with the cap closed it will be reasonably water resistant.   

[texscottyd]

3 hours ago, Ride365 said:

Is that USB outlet with LED voltmeter water resistant at all?

It seems to be reasonably water resistant, but I certainly wouldn’t assume it’s waterproof.   I’ve had this one on the bike for about a year, and been caught out in the rain several times with no issues.   I do keep that cover snapped closed when not in use, and try to avoid spraying it directly when washing the bike.  So far, so good.  

I actually bought two of them, figuring they’re cheap enough that having a spare on standby wasn’t a bad idea.  

[dazzler24]

Another alternative @petshark to making it fit, if you don't want to enlarge the metal hole, is to use a file to take the ridges off the thread on the body of the USB outlet.  I did it that way and if you take your time and work your way around the body evenly to leave the majority of the thread intact, the unit will slide in.

And while it will be a snug fit there is still plenty of bite for the nut to hold firm.  That was my experience but as always YMMV.

[petshark]

11 hours ago, Ride365 said:

Is that USB outlet with LED voltmeter water resistant at all?

The one on the Versys still worked fine after a few months including several trips where I got caught in heavy rain.

When rinsing the bike off I would ofter put a piece of tape on it together with the ignition lock and tank lock.

I ordered the same one because I was happy with the other one but I see now that there are several "improved" versions with translucent caps, instead of the hole for the voltmeter. That seems to be a better option. Personally I don't want the power button, as I don't need it hooked up to the relay and it seems like an obvious point of failure in cheap Chinese electronics.

 12 minutes ago, dazzler24 said:

Another alternative @petshark to making it fit, if you don't want to enlarge the metal hole, is to use a file to take the ridges off the thread on the body of the USB outlet.  I did it that way and if you take your time and work your way around the body evenly to leave the majority of the thread intact, the unit will slide in.

And while it will be a snug fit there is still plenty of bite for the nut to hold firm.  That was my experience but as always YMMV.

I like this idea. That way I don't need new tools and get started right away! 🙂 I think I'll just wrap some sand paper around the body, that should wear it down nice and even. Will report back.

Edited January 18, 2021 by petshark

[petshark]

Oh man, I did three jobs today on the bike, and 2 out of 3 went wrong. I’ll start with this one (all three have their own thread here 🙂).

I thought the threads were plastic but there are metal. I spent one hour using sandpaper but in the end it still wouldn’t go through and the plastic ring no longer had grip. To make it worse it got stuck 3/4 of the way through and I had to resort to pliers to try and turn it more. It worked but the front plate of the plug got damaged even while I used a rubber band around it. 
So it’s installed and really tight without the ring nut.
And it works but I will order another one and a cone drill bit. I see different widths on Amazon so I guess I have one that is extra wide. It’s marked as 30mm and there are some that are supposed to be 27mm. Oh well. On to the next thread.
 

[piotrek]

5 hours ago, petshark said:

I spent one hour using sandpaper but in the end it still wouldn’t go through and the plastic ring no longer had grip.

...did you file down the threads on the socket rather than enlarge the opening? Just use a curved file and work the opening. It should only need a millimetre or so. Brush on some rust/chassis paint on the exposed steel edge and you're done.