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Seat and Suspension


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7 hours ago, Warchild said:

Some go for the 320mm Braking Wave rotors, apparently: 

320Braking.thumb.jpg.c639937547ded6733db6486aacb6db09.jpg

Never mind the rotors, what about those Brembo calipers?  😳

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4 hours ago, texscottyd said:

Never mind the rotors, what about those Brembo calipers?  😳

 

Also note those substantially beefy fork sliders, dayumn.  😲

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Here’s my 2 cents. I have a 2018 GT bought new. The OE Dunlop tyres were clearly made to a price, so I changed them for Metzeler Roadtec 01. The difference was incredible. I’ve never had an issue with the stock suspension and have not even felt the need to change settings,  but the new tyres made a massive change to ride quality. I just had them replaced with Roadtec 01 SE. My point is that ride quality begins with the right tyre choice. 

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Obviously tires make a huge difference - my factory D222's were replaced within the first two weeks for a set of proper Dunlop RoadSmarts IVs.

But the factory suspension is another matter altogether. If one is a scrawny little 140-lb solo rider, you can make the factory suspension work for you once sag is properly set, etc.

But if you are a 225-lb linebacker, have a 125-lb pillion and 40lbs of gear between side cases and top box, the factory suspension ain't cutting the mustard whatsoever. Even with pre-load set to the max, that factory rear shock, in particular, is not up to task, and neither are the factory fork springs. Not if you are going to tackle the mountain passes and hairpin turns with gusto.

Fortunately, this can be readily corrected with enough determination and $$$.

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23 hours ago, Warchild said:

Obviously tires make a huge difference - my factory D222's were replaced within the first two weeks for a set of proper Dunlop RoadSmarts IVs.

But the factory suspension is another matter altogether. If one is a scrawny little 140-lb solo rider, you can make the factory suspension work for you once sag is properly set, etc.

But if you are a 225-lb linebacker, have a 125-lb pillion and 40lbs of gear between side cases and top box, the factory suspension ain't cutting the mustard whatsoever. Even with pre-load set to the max, that factory rear shock, in particular, is not up to task, and neither are the factory fork springs. Not if you are going to tackle the mountain passes and hairpin turns with gusto.

Fortunately, this can be readily corrected with enough determination and $$$.

So what do the (scrawny) 150 lb riders out there have the preload set to achieve proper sag?  Mine is zero on the rear, and between all in and 4 lines out on the forks...doesn’t seem to make much difference on the front so I opt for a little more softness there.  The forks seem to be quite soft.  This is without bags.  With bags I’m usually starting with 6 clicks rear preload.  Just curious if anyone has a different take.

 

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On 5/10/2021 at 6:05 AM, Warchild said:

Obviously tires make a huge difference - my factory D222's were replaced within the first two weeks for a set of proper Dunlop RoadSmarts IVs.

But the factory suspension is another matter altogether. If one is a scrawny little 140-lb solo rider, you can make the factory suspension work for you once sag is properly set, etc.

But if you are a 225-lb linebacker, have a 125-lb pillion and 40lbs of gear between side cases and top box, the factory suspension ain't cutting the mustard whatsoever. Even with pre-load set to the max, that factory rear shock, in particular, is not up to task, and neither are the factory fork springs. Not if you are going to tackle the mountain passes and hairpin turns with gusto.

Fortunately, this can be readily corrected with enough determination and $$$.

Yeah, gotta say, with the stock suspension and just upgraded springs all around mine handles *way* better into corners.  I'd love me some spiffy aftermarket suspension to see how much of a difference that makes over just springs, but even just springs has been a big deal for me.  

Particularly being a 225 lb linebacker with 75lbs of extra me, before accounting for gear.  

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  • 4 weeks later...

It will be a busy day for me tomorrow, installing this Ohlins Eye-Candy.

 

Ohlins.thumb.jpg.5eca2c0d57bb65383f61559d687d6120.jpg

 

The forks took just minutes to install... no significant running with these quite yet, just a brief spin to ensure they feel right.

 

ForkHead.thumb.jpg.456a9c39d9c9c2fa710524aaf7bb520b.jpg

 

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On 5/5/2021 at 8:45 PM, Warchild said:

Since the front wheel was off while forks are gone for overhaul, I took the opportunity to bolt up some Galfers. Thinking of posting this to the Tracer FB groups, so the social media engineers can have something to argue about.  😃 

I know, I shouldn't be an instigator... but it's like free entertainment to watch these clowns argue endlessly. 😁

 

Glafer.thumb.jpg.3d7f58c6e3e9aacaaec7212eb28b86dd.jpg

BETTER TASTE! HA! 

Everything is simple, Nothing is easy

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  • 1 month later...
On 5/11/2021 at 4:46 AM, Yamajank said:

So what do the (scrawny) 150 lb riders out there have the preload set to achieve proper sag?  Mine is zero on the rear, and between all in and 4 lines out on the forks...doesn’t seem to make much difference on the front so I opt for a little more softness there.  The forks seem to be quite soft.  This is without bags.  With bags I’m usually starting with 6 clicks rear preload.  Just curious if anyone has a different take.

 

I'm 150lbs and run 10 clicks preload in the rear (compression and rebound are also mid range). Less than that and the bike feels too mushy in the twisties. When two up I add 5 more clicks. In a few weeks I'll be two-up for a weeklong trip. With the added weight of the fully packed bags & top case I'll likely need to max out the preload.

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