betoney

Have you tried an adjustable spoiler on the screen? Before spending $150 on a screen that might be an improvement, the $20-$25 spoiler might be a solution to experiment with. I bought one of the Ebay spoilers and was surprised at the overall quality. Adjustable Windshield Clip On Extension Spoiler Wind Deflector For Motorcycle Adjustable windshield, fixed on the above of original windshield...

I think to appeal to a wider audience, especially older or partially disabled, it needs to lean while it is moving so it is still fun but have some sort of lockout so it doesn't fall over like the Niken when stopped.

I'm glad that Yamaha is pushing the envelope and not just sitting around considering next years color changes but I agree with @SKYFLIX - that computer rendering is just stupid looking, at least the Niken is relatively decent looking as well as being fun as hell to ride.

@Mike A - I agree with @texscottyd about the battery orientation but something else is going on. A newer battery shouldn't go dead in 30 days with no use. Have you wired in any electrical devices straight to the battery?

Have you played around with either of these calculators? They have a lot of good information. Motorcycle Gearing Calculator | Shift Tracer | Sprocket Comparison Gearing Commander - Motorcycle Speed and Drive Train Calculator v7 Motorcycle speed and sprocket calculator with bike database for gearing...

I believe the Tracer and GT grab rails are silver, however they hold up nice when painted. My '15 FJ had black grab rails and I painted them silver like the Tracer/ GT.

That picture alone is worth it. I LOVE roads that just twist and wind through trees and country landscapes for miles.👍

Isn't it funny how things in life like that happen? Glad you were finally able to ride it, I'm hoping to make it up there next year if the border crossings opens up to 'non-essential' traffic.

I miss those breakfast tacos... (drool) 👍

Thousands of owners of FZ/MT, XSR, FJ/Tracers have flashed their ECU. https://www.tracer900.net/search/?q=ECU flash&quick=1 TL:DR = Yes/Yes

I am 1" taller than you with about 34" inseam, I fit the bike just fine.

Yes, you still need the correct amount of slack at the lever. Between the lower cable and lever adjusters and moving the arm 1 tooth I was able to adjust the friction zone to the the spot where I want it and still have the lever on its closest setting. I hope I am not coming off as confrontational or argumentative, I am full aware of leverage ratios, lever travel, actuation zone etc. I'm simply stating what has worked for me, almost 50k miles with no slipping or burned up clutch. As with anything on a public forum, take the bits that seem to make sense to you and only make adjustments that you are comfortable with.👍

That is why we were discussing moving the arm offset by 1 tooth. I put the longer arm on, adjusted the Pazzo lever so it is on 1 - closest to the bar. The actuation is at the last half of the lever travel where I want it to be.

That shouldn't cause an issue as long as you still have the required slack at the lever. I installed the R3 pivot arm on mine, its about 3/8" longer than stock so has better leverage, I installed the actuating arm offset by 1 tooth and have used it that way for thousands of miles without issue.

Assuming that the cable is already adjusted correctly, adjustable levers wont change the clutch actuation point. The pivot mount and lever are 2 separate pieces and adjust independently, the lever adjuster only affects the reach to the bars.

That is great to hear, I'm glad it worked out for you.👍

I thought one leg was for compression and one leg was for rebound. Is that not the case?

The top mount bolt for the shock 'can' be removed without taking off the tank but taking the tank off gives you much better access and makes it very simple. I will agree with @BBB in the quick time it takes to remove the tank, I had mine off yesterday to access the airbox. In the 30 minutes he mentioned, the body panels can be stripped down and the tank can be rotated backwards to access the airbox and then everything reassembled again. The newer Tracer might be different but on the FJ, once you know the sequence to the puzzle pieces, it is very easy.

So, if I am understanding this clearly, he said the AK-20's would be have better bump absorption compared to installing their axxion valves on the oem forks? I'm just trying to understand the options you discussed. Considering how sh!tty this year has ended up being with state lock downs, 3 different vacation roadtrip cancellations, work injuries etc. I am thinking of treating myself to something nice for Black Friday. I deserve it.😎

Haha, I think every one will do that at least once when first getting a disc lock. 😄

All of those sexy, shiny billet bits and pieces so early in the morning... shame on you.😁👍

Airbox fastners are next...

A local Ace hardware store. I hate any fastener with a Phillips head and when removing the airbox lid I use an attachment for my cordless drill with a Phillips bit to remove the fasteners, every once in a while the bit slips and the fastener heads get ruined. I figured while I was replacing the airbox fasteners, I would replace any others I could find as well. There might be more under the seat or tank but I haven't found them yet.

@Stew - It sounds like you have now discovered the Tracers weakness. First off DON'T sell your Tracer, know that the bike can be made to ride BRILLIANTLY. You are on the right track seeking consultation with a specialist, ask a lot of questions and let them know EXACTLY how you intend to use your bike. Good luck on your search.