betoney

They offer additional illumination on the inside corner, triggered by the IMU when a specific lean angle is reached. From Yamaha - "Lighting is a full LED system, and Yamaha’s sophisticated cornering lights are standard equipment on the Tracer 9 GT+. When lean angle exceeds seven degrees, the cornering lights automatically illuminate the inside of the turn—whether low or high beam is being used—giving a larger illuminated area of road."

You beat me to it, this was my thought as well.

I would add auxiliary lights regardless, about a year ago I almost pulled out from a side street into an oncoming Tracer9, IMO the single light is too small, I didn't notice the bike with the small light, black front end and rider in black riding gear, similar to this photo. I don't like the trend of manufacturers making headlights smaller and smaller. Personally, I ride with the high beam on (aimed down) have additional LED lighting on the front, use hyper bright LED running light/turn signals, reflective rim stripes on the wheels, brake light strobe and wear a white helmet and a multi-colored black, white and red jacket, anything to be more visible.

Instead of altering the bikes wiring or factory lighting you could always add accessory lighting. Depending if you need to be more visible during the day or see further at night, you could add various types of lighting.

Because then Yamaha would have to change their name from 'cornering' lights to 'always on' lights... 😄

Making recommendations on your lighting needs would be based on how you plan on using them. Do you only need additional lighting to be more visible to other drivers? ie daytime running lights or will you be doing a lot of riding in the dark and need highway illumination via driving lights? If you type "motorcycle auxiliary lights" into a Google search you will get plenty of options. https://twistedthrottle.com/product-category/lighting/auxiliary-lights/

Report back with your findings, I would be surprised if that strip of foam considerably dampens the intake noise. That's great for you if it does though. Honestly, the only time I hear the intake roar is when I am heavy on the throttle like riding in the twisties or making a quick pass, I don't notice any roar with normal riding or highway cruising -steady throttle.

Yikes!! Those wind chill numbers are brutal. Stay inside.

At 15F (before wind chill) on the other side of the mountains from you, we don't have it nearly as bad but still WAY too cold to even think about riding. I was lucky to have ridden 3x last week so I don't feel too bad. A week from now we are forecast to be back near 50F.

Now that the break-in is finished are you now operating the bike at higher rpm's? Different motors react differently at various rpm's, if you are now riding at higher rpm's than you did before you may be discovering a different characteristic of the motor that you weren't exposed to before, possibly more vibrations at a certain rpm range? As @whisperquiet mentioned, make sure you have plenty of chain slack. I'm not sure what the newer Tracer9 models recommend for slack, but previous models owners manuals recommended VERY tight chain tension and some overly high bolt torque settings.

Check the bolt head for damage or deformation to see why the 17mm socket didn't fit, Yamaha didn't put an 11/16 bolt on your bike, the threads wouldn't fit in the oil pan. Use a caliper and check across all 3 faces of the bolt head to ensure 17mm.

I'm curious, how do you install software updates on the bike? do you use a flash drive via USB or is it Wi-Fi? My GPS can be updated via Wi-Fi, a few times I have arrived home and pulled into the garage within range of my Wi-Fi and a message popped up on the Garmin screen alerting me of an available software update.

I tried a few different gearing changes, 15T, 16T and 17T and didn't bother to put it back on. Its sitting on the work bench waiting for my laziness to pass... 🤣

The forecast calls for possible low land snow within a few days so I need to ride when I can, it was high 40's (F) and sunny this morning so I couldn't pass up a riding opportunity. I got home and decided to give 'Big Red' some love as well, so back out for another ride in the sunshine.

I have used those type of deflectors on a few different bikes, the assembly directions are garbage at best. What I did when assembling them was basically discard the instructions and look at photos of the assembled product, I laid all of the parts and fasteners out on a table a 'pre-fit' the pieces without the fasteners as they looked in photos. I remember having to reverse a piece or two and then they assembled correctly. Good luck

I have used this method since I was a kid on my bicycles and have done it many, many times on dirt bikes over the years. A method we used was standing facing the front of the bike with the front wheel between our knees and giving the handlebars a quick jerk in the opposite direction.

Agreed on the priority list, suspension first -always, then any other modifications after that.

In my experience the wind noise reduces significantly the smaller the screen gets. The screen causes the turbulence and noise, thats why naked bikes have no wind buffeting or aggressive noise, you get wind but its smooth. Take the screen off and go for a ride and see how smooth the air is. The wind noise/terrible screen has plagued the bike since it was introduced in 2015, I finally put on a small flyscreen and dress appropriately in colder weather. I also use a Shoei helmet and have zero issues with turbulence or wind noise riding all day long on week long road trips.

I am assuming that everyone experiencing the bog is using the standard Yamaha fuel map? Is this happening to anyone who has had the ECU flashed with a richer fuel map?

If you are getting the fail code for the APS, it’s flagging for a reason. -find out why. In the service manual there should be a section on checking the voltage of the APS to verify its operating within spec. On a very random note, considering that it’s a 2015 model how old is the battery? There have been more than a few posts involving odd error codes and erratic behavior from the bike that were fixed with a new battery.

Next time you are in that area, try heading up to the Wynoochee dam instead. https://maps.app.goo.gl/qiEBTDHKVpft8yuK9 The first 12 miles heading North out of Montesano is farmland road with very light to moderate traffic, the next 22 miles up to the dam is endless sweeping curves on perfect pavement with ZERO TRAFFIC, there is nothing out there, very easy to keep it at 75-80mph (or more 👍🏻) and then turn around and ride it again back to the highway!!! Round trip from the highway to the dam and back to the highway is almost 70 miles of glorious curves. Highly recommend doing it on a nice sunny summer day, you can add in Satsop on the way back as well.

I celebrate if a winter day ever gets that warm, that would be considered a heat wave around here. 🤣

42F and sunny, perfect for getting out for a New Years Day ride. I was hoping to stop at a favorite burger place about an hour away but as I pulled into the parking lot I saw that they were closed for the holiday (I should have known), I still had a very nice morning ride. Anyone else have a tradition of riding on New Years Day, rain or shine?

I ordered a Penske from Traxxion Dynamics. I had my forks revalved by a forum vendor that used to be a member here years ago. The shock is relatively simple to swap yourself, you don't need a shop to do the work, it can be done withing an hour. For the forks you have 2 options, getting the oem parts revalved or buying complete replacement cartridges. A cartridge swap 'should' be something that a bike shop can do if they have a cartridge holder tool as you just remove the old cartridge and install the replacement. If you were looking at buying a replacement piston kit I would ONLY trust an actual suspension shop to do that modification. A lot of members here have used KTech with great results. https://www.ktechsuspensionusa.com/part-finder?find=Yamaha_FJ-09_2015

When I replaced mine earlier this year, the oem Yausa was very close to $200. The battery in my VFR is now 7 years old, I checked the voltage yesterday and after 2 weeks of sitting idle its holding 12.6v. I'll keep an eye on it throughout the upcoming riding season.