betoney

FWIW, I don't know if this has any bearing on battery life but I use a Battery Tender on occasion but I never leave it on full time. If I'm going for a ride, I might plug in the tender the night before and take it off the next morning. Even during winter, I still ride once every 3 weeks or so, mine doesn't sit completely unused. I'm sure there is nothing wrong with leaving it connected for months at a time though, that's just my process. I replaced it with an oem Yausa battery. I have read many battery related issues on different bike forums with using aftermarket or 'budget' batteries (i.e. Batteries+ or Amazon) so I have always stuck with Yausa. I haven't done much research or given much thought to Lithium but I just don't replace vehicle batteries that often, even my 2001 pickup has had one battery replacement (about 12 years ago) in 170,000 miles.

Mine was the original battery from my 2015 model, I swapped it this past May. Honestly, if I stayed closer to home I would still be using the original, but most of my rides have been overnight road trips out of state, hundreds of miles from home.

That is EXACTLY why I recently replaced the battery on my '15, it still worked and started with just a quick press of the start button, every time but... I also ride a lot of solo rides into some pretty remote areas and just didn't want to push my luck, better safe than sorry.

I have tried stock front MC, a brand new R1 MC and a used R1 MC from my previous FZ1 (both have a Brembo stamp) which also had a rebuild kit installed, I believe both were '04 R1 MC's, (honestly I don't remember at this point). It worked great on my FZ1 but I am back to using the stock MC. All 3 MC's have had the same issues, some days they feel great, other days the lever has a ton of travel. For pads I have used the stock GG pads, Vesrah RJL and EBC HH pads, the EBC pads felt the best of the 3. On the rear I have used stock pads and EBC HH pads and have the same issue, some days the pedal is firm and will stop decently but other days I get a lot of pedal travel and very little braking. As far as cycling the ABS pump, yes it isn't difficult, you can ride through gravel or grass at 5mph and grab the lever hard and it will actuate the ABS. I have done that a few times and then done a quick bleed to check for bubbles but even after having the dealer do a bleed with their ABS tool, I still experienced the same good days and bad days with brake feel.

I experience the same thing, some days the lever is firm and braking is very functional and other days I can pull the lever halfway to the bar before feeling any pressure and braking feels like I am merely gradually slowing down. I have replaced every part of the braking system except the rear master cylinder and rear caliper. ABS pump and front calipers replaced under warranty, 3 different master cylinders including 2 from an R1, oversized rotors, aggressive pads, braided lines, dealership bled with ABS cycling tool etc, I’m done throwing money at it, the brakes on my stock Honda feel and perform better.

As previously stated, as long as its "motorcycle specific" oil, use what you want. FWIW, last few bikes have 24,000, 65,000 and 80,000 miles, I've used synthetic oil in all of them and never had any clutch issues or even wore one out.

We have E0 available but at a hefty premium $$. I have used it but not noticed an increase in fuel economy, I mainly use it in the winter when the vehicles sit around idle and get used much less. Using it exclusively would cost me a fortune, @ $6.60 a gallon a typical day ride would be over $50 for gas + lunch.

Damn, sorry to hear that. There's not much worse than a low-life thief. Hopefully there will be a positive outcome.

At times I've been tempted by the $30 batteries on Amazon but after reading so many battery related issues on different motorcycle forums, I always stick with a factory Yausa battery. Even at $180+, for me its worth it for peace of mind.

Heated grips were standard equipment when the Tracer GT model was introduced. Your dealer might have added them to your bike but they weren't a standard feature on the '15 bike.

I did a "dump and run" fork oil change with Motul 10w medium. Don't forget the step at 13:50-15:20 to reduce stiction!!!

Most manufacturers bar dimensions are published online.

I am currently using MA009 on both bikes but have also used MA005 (slightly lower)

I just got back from an overnight trip and wanted to monitor fuel economy related to temperature. The mornings were cold, between 42-46F and there was moderate fog. I set the cruise control at 70mph and reset the fuel average and rode on open highway for a solid 90 minutes with no traffic or throttle fluctuations and was getting 37-39mpg. The afternoon was warm, 75-77F and I repeated the same ultra-scientific test. With the higher temperature and less dense air, 70mph was reading between 48-51mpg on the open highway. I have checked the readings at elevation as well, I get significantly better fuel economy in the mountains at higher elevations vs. near sea level. On a hot afternoon at elevation I have seen a tank average in the mid 50's mpg under mixed riding conditions, not just cruising at a steady 70mph.

So was the bike excessively lean to meet emissions? That sounds like a contributor to its surging and dying at lower throttle openings.

Rizoma bars don't have any gaudy graphics or logo's. I have used Rizoma bars on every bike since I started riding street bikes. They are usually offered in at least black, silver and gold.

There shouldn't be any difference in torque between the Tracer 9 and the MT09, they use the same motor.

Im not sure Im following. If you had Vcyclenut's flash and then had Yamaha perform the recall, then yes, they overwrote his flash. Are you saying that now that Yamaha has re-flashed your ECU that it is not compatible to be reflashed by Vcyclenut? Or did it invalidate the license he used for your flash?

When the bike was completely revised in ‘21, the new motor got a slightly heavier crankshaft with more rotating mass, effectively the same as when we used to use flywheel weights on 2 strokes to tame “the hit”.

One thing I have found with changing the oil on this motor over the past 78,000 miles is check the level when you change the oil, run it a few minutes and let sit and then check it again, because the level will change. Run it a few minutes and let it sit again and re-verify the level then fill a few more ounces if needed. I have never needed to add a drop of oil. As @Ride365 mentioned, I too keep mine filled more toward the top of the sight glass vs the middle. Of course all measurements are made with the bike upright and level, NEVER on the side stand.

I am always impressed how the engineers can fit everything inside the frame rails and how they can get the panels to fit in a layered fashion. It can be sort of a puzzle the first time you have to remove and reinstall them. Learn the process so you can routinely maintain the air filter, even though the service schedule recommends checking every 24,000 miles (correct me if I have that mileage wrong) I service mine about every 5,000 miles on both bikes and they ALWAYS need cleaning at that mileage.

If I could offer a suggestion, - if you enter the park from the East and exit through the West, make a loop out of your route and include one of the FANTASTIC Sierra passes when heading back home. Sonora, Ebbetts and Carson passes are ALL amazing. If you plan it right you can include Monitor Pass from Markleeville to Topaz Lake which is a MUST RIDE road if you are in the area. Carson / Monitor Pass - https://maps.app.goo.gl/kMxm22zi8e7yJSc69 Sonora / Monitor Pass - https://maps.app.goo.gl/6aiHTmshCdNEbgcQ9

If you find a screen that works well, don’t change it for winter, just wear an extra base layer unless you need the screen protection for heavy rain. A screen that works well on this bike is kind of like finding a unicorn. I really like the smaller screen so I don’t change it anymore. When fall arrives, my summer riding gear gets put away and the winter gear now gets full time use.

All years have LED lights. I always ride with high beam on, aimed down so both lamps are on.

There are several unused 12v power plugs behind the screen, all of them switched on with the ignition. It makes adding accessories much simpler than wiring anything back to the battery. I used the accessory plugs to wire in a GPS, USB outlet, running lights and a volt meter.