betoney

When you get a check engine light (CEL) it should show an error code on the right screen to let you know what the error is. What is the error code? Is the bike new to you? did it have the ECU flashed when you bought it? Did the CEL start suddenly or did you do any work on the bike that might have triggered it?

How do you like your seat from Rich's? I have had mine for almost 6 years and put 65k miles on it and couldn't be happier. Conversely, I bought a Corbin for my VFR last year and don't like it AT ALL, it is unbelievably hard and uncomfortable. Lesson learned, I will never settle for anything less than a ride-in custom built seat on any other bike I buy in the future.

Great job documenting this and making it work. I love finding solutions like that even if it needs slight manipulation with a Dremel tool or bracket modification. I never liked the oem Niken side bags, an aftermarket solution to be able to mount hard bags is a great find! 👍🏻

I bought those same chain adjuster blocks many years ago, SO much better than the oem design. I wanted to post a link to share with others but couldn't find them available online anymore. I agree with you and @bwringer - after the initial adjustment on the new chain, I just don't need to adjust the chain until it starts to get near the end of its life.

Is the rebound adjuster always fully open? meaning no damping? as @OZVFR mentioned, your rebound settings shouldn't be at zero. Your damping adjustments control the SPEED of the spring compressing down and or rebounding back up. You don't want the suspension to bounce, you want it to move up and down in a controlled manner. You can set baseline settings while in the garage or driveway but most of your adjustments should occur while riding. I have always kept a straight slot screwdriver in my tank bag for suspension tweaks while riding.

When you say rebound screw is all the way out, I am assuming you mean that the rebound clicker is fully turned counter clock-wise? is this correct? If your rebound damping is set to fully open- meaning almost zero rebound hydraulic damping, you are basically riding the spring, when you press down on the front end it should rebound back up very quickly and feel bouncy. If that isn't the case your fork leg could possibly be binding. When your damping is correct and you press down and release it should move down and back up smoothly and controlled with no downward binding or stiction and not springing back or slowly dragging upward.

... and that is why we have a few... to meet the "mood of the day". 😎

For me- it made a small but still noticeable difference in the clutch pull. The R3/MT03 arm is about $11 2MS-E6340-00-00 https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/2MS-E6340-00-00

Your description sounds very much like my impressions of my VFR1200X, very planted yet nimble, controlled, linear power delivery aimed at a mature, responsible rider. As much as I enjoy my VFR, I always love the contrast of riding the FJ, owning both they feel very "Jekyll and Hyde" - and that's a compliment for both bikes. 😎

I used to own soft bags, bottom line- they suck in rain, usable in dry weather only. I've sprayed "waterproof" coating but at best its good for a brief light mist, anything heavier and you will spend the evening at your destination washing and drying your soaked clothing. If you use side bags more than once a year, do yourself a favor and buy something waterproof - hard bags.

The Bolt and R3 arm are slightly longer and do fit on the FJ. I posted photos when I installed the longer arm a few years ago. I agree with @2and3cylinders - definitely get the revised clutch cable with the -02- in the part number, 2PP-26335-02-00

Best of luck to you, personally I have never made it to 10k on a rear tire of any brand on any bike. I made it to 12k on a front tire once but it was well out of round and the handling was terrible.

I always use Trip 1 as my "tank range", I zero it out at each refueling and have learned that my average range is 170-180 miles before needing to seek out a fuel station. After running a few tanks of fuel through the bike you will figure out your average range before the flashing warning light comes on. After the flashing light comes on I have ridden up to 25 miles on a few occasions but I was getting pretty nervous, luckily I have never ran out of fuel.

Just a reminder, NEVER rely in the the service manuals recommended interval for your air filter, always use real world conditions. I believe Yamaha recommends every 24,000 miles, I clean the filters on both bikes about every 5,000 miles and they are always dirty and full of bugs.

Highway on and off ramps.

I used one on a previous bike - only because electronic cruise control wasn't available for that bike. The Kaoko worked well on a flat road, as soon as you encounter any degree of incline you will slow down and any downward grade will have you speeding up rapidly. I live in an area with elevation changes, I was constantly making minor adjustments to maintain the desired speed. If you live in a flat region, it should work very well for you. Now that I have a bike that is compatible with an electronic cruise control I am forever spoiled and will never own a bike without CC again.

If you remove the circlip, arm and spring is it possible to take a deep socket and press the oil seal back down evenly?

The SW Motech bags are expensive for sure but they are VERY high quality. I have EVO tank rings on both of my bikes and swap the bag between bikes all of the time, it sees a lot of use and is still in pristine condition after many years. I think you'll like it.

Didn't know you were off the bike for a year due to injuries, hope you are back to normal. Glad to hear you are back on the bike.

I hate that "feature" as well. I only ever ride during daylight so I have both high and main beam illuminated 100% of the time with the high beam aimed down a bit. I also use Denali daytime running lights, agreed, very expensive.

Glad to hear that you got it sorted out. 😎

I don't own a Niken but have used The Angel GT tires on several different bikes over the years and currently have them installed on my Honda VFR and have extra on the shelf in the garage, GREAT tires! they should work well for you.

It might sound silly but with the fork still in the bike, have you fully loosened the top triple clamp pinch bolt before trying to turn the fork cap? Did you the install the K-Tech parts yourself? the fork caps don't need to be overly tight and you definitely shouldn't need heat or a cheater bar.

I have the VFR1200X. I had always wanted Yamaha to release a sort of Tracer/FJR hybrid, larger, less hooligan, smoother and more relaxed for longer road trips. The 2 bikes look very similar but engine characteristics couldn't be more different, 1200cc V4 with shaft drive and DCT. Extremely low stress motor will cruise at 80mph @ just over 4k rpm all day long, I just had to add cruise control. Although significantly larger, the VFR is surprisingly agile and can definitely hold its own on the "fun" roads, if you have seen the older guys ride larger FJR's, C14's and similar on twisty roads, you know what I'm talking about. 😎 My tank bag, GPS and Shad side bags swap from bike to bike in minutes depending on which bike I am using.

I have had the same feeling lately. I swap riding with my VFR, a day trip on the FJ and then a day trip on the VFR. As much as I enjoy the smooth and refined feel of the VFR, every time I get back on the FJ and get into some spirited riding it brings a smile to my face, the motor still impresses me every time I ride it. For an "older" bike with almost 75k miles it never misses a beat, I cant imagine NOT having a CP3 of some sort in the garage.