kmev

I've never tried to put my Roadcrafter in a side case, but it fits in my Yamaha 50L top box. I wear a lined Classic size 44 with hip and back armor. I don't think it will fit unless you're really short and don't use the armor in the suit. I've never seen the newer unlined Roadcrafter, but that should roll up a bit smaller. I put one of my Aerostich Combat Lite boots in each side case, the suit in the top case, and the helmet on a Yamaha helmet hanger installed in the left side.

There is a cable retainer attached by the top radiator mounting bolt. I found it helpful to loosen the bolt and rotate the retainer out of the way. Not 100% necessary, though.

I don't know know the diameter of UK fuel pump nozzles, but here in the US the pump nozzle will fit through the hole under the gas cap. I only splash fuel on the tank when I'm not paying attention and I lift the nozzle above that hole. If it doesn't fit through the hole you will just have to pump very slowly or figure out a way to remove that pan with the holes in it.

There's eight in my basement.

There is always room for one more bike....

In that case, no one can give you an answer as to what tires will fit. My suggestion is to straighten the fender mount. A large adjustable wrench works great for straightening bent things.

Several people on this forum run TKC80s in the stock sizes without problems. I currently have a set waiting for me in Whitehorse, Yukon, that I will be installing in a few weeks to ride the Dempster. I'm leaving Wisconsin on Dunlop Roadsmart 3s on June 7th.

You're obviously not using the bike properly. 😁

I can get over 50 mpg all day long (according to the dash readout) as long as I'm cruising at 60 mph. I've found however, that only happens with this bike if I'm stuck behind traffic. I have pushed my share of bikes after running out of gas, too. It was mostly a Sportster with the 2-gallon tank I rode in the 1990s

Range varies depending on your speed, headwinds, etc. I have made it 200 miles on one tank, but this morning I had the fuel warning flashing at 130 miles after running close to 90 mph into a headwind.

FJR and Tracer/FJ lids are interchangeable. See attached post for options on how to swap.

There are two ways to do it. The more difficult way is to drill out the rivet heads on the lid and then re-rivet the hinge plate into place. The easier way is to bend over the tab that holds the pivot pin in the hinge, slide out the pins, and remove the lid. If you are having it professionally painted, your painter will probably want the hinge plate removed, thus require drilling the rivet heads. It is not difficult, but can be a bit fiddly getting the rivets back into place with the backing plate that is inside the lid. I used 5/32 diameter x 3/8 length rivets, but found the rivets were a bit too long and ended up cutting down each rivet length by an 1/8 inch. Drill off the rivet head, and then use a punch to push the rivet through into the lid. You can flex the lid cover enough to get the old rivets out. The backing plate will probably come out with the rivets. Reassemble in reverse order taking great care not to scratch the fresh paint in the process. I used a small washer wedged in above the backing plate to hold it in place while I re-riveted - this worked very well, but make sure you put the washer on the correct side of the backing plate or you'll be drilling more rivets to remove that washer.

The bolt direction doesn't matter. Are you installing this on the newer GT with the narrower bars - putting the clamp closer to the riser mount on the larger part of the tapered bar? I did not need longer bolts on my 2015.

You will have to move the cable zip ties and fit it under the clutch cable, but it will go. You may have to put the bolt in from the front, as the bolt head was smaller than the nut. It took a bit of fiddling before I got mine on, and it is on the bend of the bar which is not ideal, but it works just fine.

Here is a pic of mine. Its a tight fit there, you just have to find the right spot.

Hold up....I just checked the part number on the guards that are currently installed on my bike, and it is the same as what you showed (despite being different from the Amazon listing I bought them from). So they should work just fine. If that gap is your concern, push the mount onto the bar - those guards are flexible.

We're going to need more info/pics. When I run your part number it comes back as a windshield washer fluid reservoir. Your part number is definitely different from the ones I ordered and installed (and linked to, above).

I never noticed a whine until I read this thread. Now when I ride that's all I can hear is that whine. Thanks a lot. Of course, it could also be due to that Madstad windshield I just installed!

I guess I'm not sure what you mean - you slide the rear tire through turns?

Disassemble the case lock, insert your ignition key into lock barrel, grind down any protruding tumblers while the key remains in the lock, reassemble lock, toss the case key in the trash.

..which I why I gave it a shot, and it worked for me! 😀

Or it puts just enough added weight on the front end.

I have this shock and while I agree setting the preload sucks, it sucks less than trying to crank up the OEM shock - and the ride is SOOO much better. The OEM shock delivered such a jarring impact over the frost heaves that occur every ten feet in Wisconsin that it made the bike unridable. This shock solved that problem. I adjusted the shock to be 5mm longer than stock, and combined with removing the OEM handgards, it eliminated the high speed wobble/oscillation this bike is prone to - even when passing semi-trucks on the interstate.

I bought this one when they offered it during their holiday sale for $35 this winter. I haven't used it yet but its pretty small and comes with a variety of power connections. Looking around the internet, it seems that a few other places sell the same compressor. I don't think you will find much smaller than this unless you use one of the manual bicycle pumps that are meant to be carried on a bicycle frame (and would probably take all day to air a tire). Aerostich Mini Compressor - Pumps & Air Compressors - Tire Repair - Tools - A to B :: Aerostich Motorcycle Jackets, Suits, Clothing, & Gear WWW.AEROSTICH.COM <p class="indent">This is the smallest, lightest compressor we carry and one of the most efficient you’ll find for its size. This stripped-down mini fits in the palm of your hand and will inflate any motorcycle tire in a couple minutes...

I have the Combat Lites and really like them. They were perfect for commuting, as they were on or off in seconds. I once used them to hike a glacier - I will never do that again and now take them off for any length of walking. But for riding I have no complaints. I heard they are not making them anymore and I see old pairs going to what I consider ridiculous prices. I like Aerostich's elk gloves in short and long versions. I just got their "Vulcan Paws" for my trip this summer, so we'll see how they work. I've never tried their boot covers, but I was eyeing them. In my experience, if you're going to be riding all day in a rain on a bike that doesn't have enormous wind protection you eventually get wet no matter what you're wearing and there is not much you can do about it. My approach is to hope for a sunny day the next so everything dries out. I went straight from a cheap HJC to a Schuberth C3Pro when they were on closeout with Revzilla. I could not believe the difference. I wouldn't pay full price for it, but I do like the helmet.