knyte

This thread discusses that:

Yep, no PATS (passive anti theft system) on NA bikes. The blank would work perfectly.

My apologies, that wasn't meant to be sarcastic - I really do like those bikes Honda changed the game with the release of the 750 4.

Oh wow, a 750 4! I've a deceased uncle who burnt out two of them riding around the US and Mexico (twice). Great bikes! And, yeah, with that provenance...that'll drive up the price for sure.

UPDATE: Well, I sure appreciate the tips and advice. Good to know I'm not the only one! After several multi-day trips and a very busy riding season, and spraying the liner with Stink Free (as had been suggested), it helps a LOT. I tried a skull cap but found the seams irritated my forehead for some reason. Also tried a buff now and again, that, too, helped a bit. However - when I disassembled my helmet yesterday to wash the cheek pads & liner, it became clear that the Styrofoam itself was the real odor absorber. Sprayed it liberally with Stink Free 2x and re-assembled. FAR better!! So, I guess the process going forward will be to spray after every ride, remove & wash the liner/pads at least 2x per season, and spray the Styrofoam down while the pads are out. As someone mentioned, helmets are more or less a consumable, and I've already been eyeing up a modular (current brain bucket is an AGV K3 SV)...

Re-assembled all my riding gear after a good wash. Got the touring bags & liners (need to get a zipper fixed) and the tank bag all mounted up. Added some PSI to both tires. Went for a test ride - first ride this spring - to a parking lot at the old Wal Mart in Beverly (which happened to be very clean) and did some emergency stops, some figure 8's, swerves, and the like. I intentionally left my earplugs out to listen for any rattles and such; good thing because the chain was VERY loose (dunno how I missed that) and will need adjustment - I could hear some clicking when the power was engaging the rear wheel. So, it was back to the garage until I can adjust the slack - then all good to go for the season.

I hope so, too. I would think your experience to be an anomaly. Good luck this season - hope you get some trouble-free rides in!

https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tips-tech/tech-tip-front-fork-alignment/ I've no idea if this is the cause, but it might be worth looking at.

Front forks / rear wheel out of alignment?

That was a quote in the comments by the creator of the video. Sounds like air/fuel mixture, but there's no reference... for ex stock values and what increments to adjust and why. Leaves more questions than answers! Sounds like you probably adjusted the APS...something I've yet to do!!

"It is more to control the air & fuel mixture of your bike and get the optimum result/value of the air & fuel ratio after install aftermarket parts e.g. exhaust, air filter or spark plug." ...still pretty vague.

Got an RKA based on a review / feedback on this site with zero regrets: https://rka-luggage.com

Rats, I'm not going to make it

dumb...but a cheap fix!

That's awesome, I've also been eyeballing Dave Moss for a while. I'm curious as to what he had you do, and your body type and such?

That p*ss*s me off to NO end. What, that filter and/or drain plug is holding the whole engine together ? Of all the bolts or things that spin requiring low torque - these are two of them. No need to overtighten.

There should be a few threads on this. Here is one of them:

That's wayyyy overkill. I can see needing something like that if for whatever reason you need to suck something out of an area that won't drain, or something...like a differential or a power steering pump or something...but for oil changes ? Can't see any advantage at all.

Thing is, sometimes the book value is slightly different than the sight glass or dipstick. I tend to trust the stick or sight glass over the book value. I've experienced more than one shop that just pumps whatever the book says without even checking the stick.

No kidding, if anything, they'd be better off to round DOWN. LIke @duckie says, it's not hard to measure the CORRECT volume.

As for the lift system. I have an ATV lift from Princess Auto, but it only works with certain bikes, and my FJ isn't one of them. However - I did pick up a QuickJack on sale at Costco (best $ spent EVER if you have a few vehicles and DIY), and they make an accessory for motorcycles: https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/motorcycle-lift-kit/ I'm too cheap though - it so happens I've a wheel chock, so I can just make the platform out of wood and affix the chock for the front wheel.. Problem solved!

Naw man, that's just real life - totally relatable!!

Even if you can't or don't start it - and as long as it's on the centre stand - sitting on it and making "NYEEERR, NYEERRRRRR" sounds totally counts.

Yep, I've been there too - and went to great lengths to undo my beauty mark(s)... Good luck with the new parts and rolling back the proverbial clock

That's hilarious, they even show the wrong bike in the ad (FJ/Tracers aren't in the fitment list): https://www.amazon.ca/Pair-Motorcycle-Footrest-Yamaha-FZ400/dp/B08GKPC9FS/ref=sr_1_7?crid=134WGG7OZJ3L2&keywords=fjr1300+foot+pegs&qid=1647885838&refinements=p_85%3A5690392011&rnid=5690384011&rps=1&sprefix=fjr1300+footpegs%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-7