Jfundo

I have no idea on what happens with side cases. I don't expect to ever have any. The width of the signals is unchanged, just moved up and towards the front, probably in the 3"-4" range. It really wasn't that hard, probably only took 3 or 4 hours including time staring at it trying to figure out the next step.

Posted my fender in the how-to section. It is actually pretty easy except for the welding.

I'm 6'-2" with 36" inseam. Best fitting bike I've ever had. The stock seat I fit on great, but the forward lean drove me crazy so I got a corbin seat. I can't slide back as far as I used to and that bothers me a little, but otherwise the seat helped a ton. That is my only height related complaint. I think the resolution is to get handlebars that lean me forward a bit more. Haven't done that yet. No problems with sore knees that I've had on all other bikes. The windscreen trouble I have is the same as everyone else. I have average torso height, I'm all legs. I switch back and forth between low and high screen settings depending on my mood. Never bothers me. I don't do a lot of highway miles though.

I decided that before buying a fender eliminator kit, I would take a shot at a very low-cost option of just cutting down the original. As posted in the "what did you do today" topic today, here is the result: Pic of underside: This requires some welding (I have a cheap harbor freight welder) and a lot of shaping and cutting with an angle grinder. To get an idea of the depth of this, here are the leftover parts (minus a few shards of metal I'm sure): Essentially I only modified 5 parts as shown below (the 5th is the license plate bracket fastened to the plastic piece): The part on the top of the picture is the main arm that I cut the center section out of and welded back together, ground smooth, a little body filler and painted. I also carved off the smaller pieces along the bottom: I'm still learning to weld: The piece in the middle is the a reinforcing plate that is hidden behind the plastic. I cut off the lower bolt hole on that because it wasn't needed and would've been visible. Probably could've entirely eliminated this part but it seems to really keep it all nice and stiff so I kept it: The lower left piece is the plastic wire cover. It just got cut down for length: The main fender plastic, I cut as high as I cut at a place that had a clean line through it. The key here is that the actual cut is hidden behind the license plate so it doesn't get seen. Cutting plastic to look nice is not in my skill set. I also scuffed up the top somehow in the process, so it is all painted black (plastic safe rattle can type) The last piece is the license plate bracket. I cut the ends off and bolted to the plastic through the old license plate light hole. This can be seen in the picture above. The final result seems nice and sturdy and I'm pretty happy with it. Not sure I would have done anything differently if I were to do it again (other than scuffing the plastic). I'm going to run with this for a while until I get some funny looks or I get sick of it.

I'm with Drafter. I wouldn't mind leaning a bit more forward. I've also flipped the risers and rotated the stock bars as much as reasonable. A different shape bar that gets the grips an inch or so further from the seat would be great, but I don't know where to begin without dimensions of what I have.

I diminutized my tail. Not sure why I started this project, but I'm actually pretty happy with the results. Probably should have spit shined it before taking this vanity picture though. I have some process pictures and can write up an explainer if anyone wants. Etiquette question, should I do it here or start a new thread?

I just mean it isn’t running smooth, which is the first symptom of being out of sync

Nice! I have trust issues with other people working on my stuff too. I won't have anyone else work on it unless I know 100% what the issue is. I don't trust anyone else to diagnose, they don't use their brains. So you must work on airplanes?

Sorry to change the subject, but what work extra work did you put into that 8k service? That appears pretty extreme.

You have a good point here. The tool that you use to sync the throttle bodies literally only tells you that the engine is running lumpy with the added benefit of showing which cylinder is off. Your butt can probably detect a problem by riding it. So if you are sensitive to engine noises, you can probably hear and feel when it is time to check them. Particularly with a 3 cylinder.

I always thought it was illegal to use accessory lights mounted higher than the headlights on the road (which is why jeep people cover their roof light bars). I tried to google and can't find anything specific to motorcycles, but it does seem to be a law for cars in most states. No idea about our neighbors to the north.

Yup, stock seat is probably great when on a track, and the reason it exists for the test riders to get the best lap times. Mine lasted me about 45 minutes. I got the corbin because of the long lead times for others, and I'm pretty happy with it. Nice that you can focus on this stuff now instead of only thinking about the damage on your first one. Congrats on standing up for yourself and getting what you paid for.

I wish I was as sensitive to things going wrong with my bike as petshark is. Hopefully this doesn't come across as an insult, because it isn't intended to be. He just likes everything to work perfectly 👍. I've found with switches that the solution is to take them apart and figure out what is making them not feel quite right. Might need to clean something out, or even bend a metal tab somewhere to make it work more smoothly. Done this with great success on several old bikes and even my daughter's 4-wheeler.

Never owned a honda or a bike with linked brakes, do both the foot brake and the hand brake control both brakes? So you can't isolate one or the other? Or is it just the hand lever that is linked?

Is that decorative metal nut shaped object you refer to the thing I was just going to tout about the K&N filters? They build in a 17mm nut to make it way easier to remove later. Particularly useful for the wife's bonny because there is no way to get a hand or strap wrench on the filter.

Hmmm...used to be problems that only show up when cold were due to carburator issues (because you can't do anything about your engine needing a richer mix when cold). Specifically the choke. Of course you are all computer controlled, so there must be some reason that the injectors are providing too much, or too little fuel. Since you haven't changed anything, it just started doing this, we need to look at things that could wear out or deteriorate. I can't put my finger on what it could be. Outside chance that it is the fuel pump is slightly tired. The ignition coil doesn't care if it is cold, so that probably isn't the problem, unless your bike is stored outdoors and it gets moisture buildup inside of it. Same deal with spark plugs, they don't care if it is cold. I could be way off based on your hint about you having the clutch halfway engaged might point us to a clutch issue. How many miles are on it?

Ran across the beaver dam kayaking on Sunday. Not sure I can get back there with my bike.

I think that with the aftermarket exhaust and K&N filter you are running too lean when cold. Computer mapping can't properly adjust for that situation.

I'm thinking you are right, there is something wrong with your seat if it is that bad. Wonder if can be buffed smooth or something.

Did a car steering wheel once too. Good times.

I can tell you that I Armor All'd a bike seat once and really paid the price, could barely stay on it. Maybe some light Armor All coating will get you where you want to be.

So the dealer leaves the keys in the bikes on the showroom? Not locked in a safe? Sketchy. At least the thieves have safety in mind wearing all their gear.

I think you have to understand Fortnine's bias towards offroad riding. Using gear oil makes a lot of sense for him because the chain needs a lot of maintenance and this make is better and easier. The way he presented the info in his video is very helpful for us to choose what would work best for us. I'm willing to replace my chain a year earlier as a result of using something more convenient (for me) than oil. BTW way, +1 for fortnine. Nothing but respect for that guy. Watch his videos so he can get paid and keep making them.

Don't confuse your pants size with your leg length. I'm 6'-2" and wear 34" length pants, but my actual measurement from the ground to the sensitive bits is 37" (I'm a bit abnormally proportioned, all legs).

In my mind the wheel spins like this because your friction clutch is acting a bit like a torque converter in an automatic transmission. Just the fluid is spinning around and transfers some of the torque. Once the fluid gets hot and thins out it doesn't transfer the torque as well anymore.