Samaha

Update on Bagster Seat. I rode for 2.5 hours yesterday with a passenger and without stops. My wife is extremely pleased with the Bultex foam. She never complained once, whereas she would typically ask for a break every 40 minutes on the stock seat. For me the seat is extremely comfortable and the forward slope is gone. I was able to move the Bagster to the higher position while maintaining the same height to ground ratio as the stock seat provided in the lower position. I am glad i made the purchase and appreciate the advice from this forum.

Finally pulled the trigger on a Bagster. Im 5'9" and 170lbs. Ill check in later next week with an update on rider/passenger comfort and whether it was worth it.

I modified a passenger seat for my 2020 900 GT using a Givi Universal mounting plate, universal backrest and high density foam from Amazon and a 6x8 mounting bracket from Home Depot. Total cost was under $30, not including the Givi plate which i already had. Its extremely secure, easy to remove off the rear Yamaha rack and above all, my wife loves it. Further, i have added a rear bag to carry our wallets, sunglasses and tools. (not shown)

Mine did the same for weeks until I inserted a rubber washer between the nuts, wrapped the top nut in a cloth (to prevent scratching) and then used a wrench to tighten it down. It has not moved since.

Wintersdark, Are you still happy with the Bagster. im debating upgrading my seat after a very long Stock seat ride.

Yes, perfectly. i have the 2020 Tracer 900 GT

When not on your bike, you continue to nod or wave when a biker passes you by.

Just got my YES letter. After some research, i found Yamaha Part Nation. i will commit.

Honestly, i just used a flat head screwdriver and slowly pried them off. Don't be afraid to bend the toothed washers when removing. I then flattened the washers with a pair of pliers and re-used them.

I just replaced my front stock signals with Proton 500's. Rather than explaining I included pics. I love the lights.

Thank you. On my 2020, the clutch lever engages a micro switch when pulled. The switch has two positions with the first click disengaging the cruise control; ~10 mm of clutch pull. The second click is to allow shifting to the next gear; ~40-50mm. Many "after market" levers are not cut properly which prevents the cruise control from working. This lever is cut like the OEM lever. hope that helps.

I just installed the 2020 Tracer 900 GT Clutch lever and it fit PERFECTLY. Allows for double click of Cruise Control cancellation. I am very happy with this product. I bought it directly from avdb-moto and paid $49 US including shipping. Thanks for the tip GTO Mike.

Another satisfied customer. The TST 2 PIN LED FLASHER RELAY GEN 2 worked like a charm. It took 2 minutes to replace the OEM relay which is located under the rider seat as shown below.

After finding a pair of old protons that were scratched up from a tip over, I decided to sand down the lenses and repurpose them to replace my rear stock signals. First, I took apart the stockers and snipped the wires close to the bulbs. Next I used the stock base and mounted L brackets to attach the old protons to my aftermarket fender eliminator. Finally I re-connected the stock wire to the proton lights and plugged them back in under the seat. I love that the lights are extremely bright.

Thanks, yes, the mounting plate and hardware (brackets) came with the top case. the only thing i added was a 4 inch mending plate for security

thank you keithu I got it from Amazon

UPDATE: After receiving feedback from this forum, I decided to mount the lights to steel supports on the bike. I used the following parts: · One 12 inch 3/8 threaded rod – used rubber mallet to push through $1.50 · 2 20MM X 3MM (~8”) Black Mending Bracket $6 · 4 3/8 washers 30 cents · 4 3/8 Lock nuts 60 cents · Two 2 inch elbow brackets 60 cents · Dual Camera Mount Flash Bracket Extension Bar 10.6'' $10 Step 1- Push the threaded rod through the hollow metal cylinder as shown in Aux Light Install 7 and make sure it’s the same length coming out of each side (approx1.5 inches). Use (use 3/8 Lock nuts to secure on each side) Step 2 – Fasten the mending brackets on each side. Before you mount the bracket ensure you run the bracket through the bottom of the fairing as shown in Aux Light Install 8. To Mount the bracket I used 2 washers, then put on the bracket and then secured with another 3/8 locknut as shown in Aux Light Install 8a. Step 3 – Attach 2 elbow brackets to each side of the mending plates as shown in Aux Light Install 9. I drilled some extra holes into the mending bracket to accommodate the holes in the elbow bracket. Step 4- Attach the Dual Camera Mount Flash Bracket Extension Bar to the top of the elbow brackets and light beneath as shown in Aux Light Install 10. Remove any slack and tighten everything up.

My last 3 to date. have my eye on a BMW 2020 R nineT 5 (old school look with modern tech)

I carry these Cruz tools: Outback M14 and the Speed kit

thank you. Fair points. i will look into a way of supporting it a steel support. For now the zips dont allow any flex but as stated, it could become fatigued over time.

Its up to you. My lights are 1 lb each so i felt more comfortable adding a second layer of support. Regarding the second part of your question, the lights are attached to the plastic with the flat bar on the outside and a metal washer inside. The attached pic is a very poor attempt to illustrate.

lol, thank you. happy to add more pics of different angles if you want.

I installed a set of Aux lights using an LED wiring harness with a switch. The install took 90 minutes including adjustment of the lights. Project materials and tools: · AutoTime 2 Pack 3.5 Inches 25W LED Work Light Flood Spot Combo $57 · DZG Universal LED Light Wiring Harness Kit with Relay and On/Off Switch $18 · 20MM X 3MM (~8”) Black Mending Bracket $3 · 2 Washers · 2 rubber grommets (optional) · Heat Shrink Wire Connectors · Heat Shrink Crimping Tool · Heat Gun Steps Step 1 – TEST by connecting Wire Harness to lights and Power/or Fuse Box (See Aux Light Install 1). Step 2 - Appropriately run the wires from power to the lights and switch. I ran mine underneath the plastic side fairings and zip tied to existing wires. For the switch, I did the same, going up the fork column to the handlebar; make sure you allow some wiggle room for turning. (See Aux Light Install 2) Step 3 – Line up the mending bracket to furthest part of the fairing and drill two holes in the plastic. Ensure there is space to push through a screw by gauging with your finger. NOTE: If you prefer not to drill into the plastic, you can use the existing holes. I used the existing holes for the light wires and inserted a rubber grommet on each side. (See Aux Light Install 3a and 3b) Step 4 – Mount the lights loosely using the included hardware. Push the screw through the light bracket, mending plate and fairing hole. On the inside, be sure to use a metal washer between the plastic and lock nut (See Aux Light Install 4) Step 5 – Use 2 zip ties to further secure the plate by looping through each bracket located directly above the existing holes. (See Aux Light Install 5a and 5b) Step 6 – Adjust and tighten the lights to the desired angle. (See Aux Light Install 6a, 6b and 6c)