norcal616 Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 @norcal616 oddly the whole point of the rubber damper is to achieve the opposite of vibration and noise, have you tried a sprocket without the rubber damper? yes I am using an aftermarket one...its a reg ole steel front sprocket with no rubber damping thingy... the overall vibrations are still present but it feels "re shaped" to very fine very quick and much smoother vibrations rather than clunky like a bass rhythm that amplifies with more rpm I felt with the OEM sprocket... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kernowjim Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Interesting. I've got the bass rhythm effect on mine, which come to think of it does reduce the longer I'm riding it (as the sprocket gets hotter). I guess the cheapest option would be to cut away the rubber of the original sprocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Interesting. I've got the bass rhythm effect on mine, which come to think of it does reduce the longer I'm riding it (as the sprocket gets hotter). I guess the cheapest option would be to cut away the rubber of the original sprocket. you can see the chains links ride on the rubber rather than the inner roller... its hard to see in the picture but the chain marks on the rubber are in a pattern...every other one is more dug in than the other which appear kinda halfway dug into the rubber... the rubber is tough...its like $30 for a new aftermarket sprocket... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kernowjim Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Yes I see what you mean. My current gearing is 16-43 (I fitted a 43 tooth Renthal sprocket on the rear to lower the RPM when cruising). I'll try a solid steel front sprocket to see what happens. Thanks for the info ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wordsmith Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Yes I see what you mean. My current gearing is 16-43 (I fitted a 43 tooth Renthal sprocket on the rear to lower the RPM when cruising). I'll try a solid steel front sprocket to see what happens. Thanks for the info !kerno - what reduction in rpm did you achieve with this mod? And any unwanted/ significant loss of acceleration? Riding a fully-farkled 2019 MT-09 Tracer 900 GT from my bayside home in South East Queensland, Australia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kernowjim Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Yes I see what you mean. My current gearing is 16-43 (I fitted a 43 tooth Renthal sprocket on the rear to lower the RPM when cruising). I'll try a solid steel front sprocket to see what happens. Thanks for the info !kerno - what reduction in rpm did you achieve with this mod? And any unwanted/ significant loss of acceleration? Hi @wordsmith , it dropped the highway RPM by about 300 - the 'eco' display is still on at 85mph - in B mode. No discernible difference in acceleration - it's still wild in 1st and 2nd! If you do it, just watch those sprocket carrier nuts when retightening - 50ft Ibs is enough...manual states 58ft Ibs which is too tight and can strip the nut threads (voice of experience!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kernowjim Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 @norcal616 I've ordered a steel sprocket (16 tooth), cost me £13 ($16US) delivered. I'll hopefully have it delivered and fitted by Wednesday and I'll let you know if there are any improvements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 yes I am using an aftermarket one...its a reg ole steel front sprocket with no rubber damping thingy... the overall vibrations are still present but it feels "re shaped" to very fine very quick and much smoother vibrations rather than clunky like a bass rhythm that amplifies with more rpm I felt with the OEM sprocket...Interesting... just the fact that the links are riding the rubber collar seems very wrong (is it even intended to do that?). Noticed the indentations on mine too and wondered, but didn't really notice the vibes so I moved on. Even though it's inexpensive, I'm hesitant to replace the front sprocket now at 19,000km as I'd rather replace the sprockets with the chain as a set. There's no other appreciable wear anywhere else.Yes it's ment to ride on the rubber collar more than the inner rollers... the orginal sprocket didn't bother me much with vibrations but I needed to drop 1T on the front sprocket to kick the rpms up a tad when in the lower end of the power band... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alquimista Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 @norcal616 I've ordered a steel sprocket (16 tooth), cost me £13 ($16US) delivered. I'll hopefully have it delivered and fitted by Wednesday and I'll let you know if there are any improvements. Have you tested the bike, stopped, in neutral gear, with motor revs at 4,500-5000 rpms? In my case, vibrations are still there. Vibration caused by sprocket, would be only when the bike is moving... As someone posted here as well, the vibration seems to come from the core of the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 @norcal616 I've ordered a steel sprocket (16 tooth), cost me £13 ($16US) delivered. I'll hopefully have it delivered and fitted by Wednesday and I'll let you know if there are any improvements.Have you tested the bike, stopped, in neutral gear, with motor revs at 4,500-5000 rpms? In my case, vibrations are still there. Vibration caused by sprocket, would be only when the bike is moving... As someone posted here as well, the vibration seems to come from the core of the motor. you may be chasing a fueling change value in the fuel map... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kernowjim Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 @norcal616 I've ordered a steel sprocket (16 tooth), cost me £13 ($16US) delivered. I'll hopefully have it delivered and fitted by Wednesday and I'll let you know if there are any improvements.Have you tested the bike, stopped, in neutral gear, with motor revs at 4,500-5000 rpms? In my case, vibrations are still there. Vibration caused by sprocket, would be only when the bike is moving... As someone posted here as well, the vibration seems to come from the core of the motor. You're right and I'm aware that the majority of the vibration comes from the motor itself and the direct mounting to the frame - it's also a deliberately engineered characteristic by Yamaha to give a kind of raw feel, this was mentioned in the press releases prior to the arrival of the original FZ-09. But what I think most of us are doing is trying to refine it as much as we can, we're never going to eliminate it completely, if we wanted that we'd have bought Tiger 800's but it would be cool if we could improve it bit by bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kernowjim Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 Have you tested the bike, stopped, in neutral gear, with motor revs at 4,500-5000 rpms? In my case, vibrations are still there. Vibration caused by sprocket, would be only when the bike is moving... As someone posted here as well, the vibration seems to come from the core of the motor. you may be chasing a fueling change value in the fuel map... That's what I was thinking and revving it in neutral is not replicating normal use whereas riding it is. At that rev range it would be just about to change mapping values and would be behaving 'badly' ! The vibration to me is from under load, i.e. acceleration. Every bike will vibrate if revved high in neutral but it's not always felt in motion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alquimista Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 A biker that uses to ride a chopper, when I told him about vibrations, recommended me to test the normal Honda mineral oil. He has tested several oil brands (he owns a bike accessories shop) and this one has yield better results on his chopper :softer gear changes, better riding experience. So, I decided to try... Not the final solution, yet if I can say a number, I'd say it reduced about 20 to 30 percent vibrations (gut estimate). In 5th and 6th, the bike feels softer, even at 4.5k or more rpms. 1 to 4, I can still feel the buzz, specially on tough acceleration... on road /high way. On city commute, you can hardly feel it. And indeed, the less altitude (sea level) you drive, the more noticeable the vibration is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kernowjim Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 A biker that uses to ride a chopper, when I told him about vibrations, recommended me to test the normal Honda mineral oil. He has tested several oil brands (he owns a bike accessories shop) and this one has yield better results on his chopper :softer gear changes, better riding experience. So, I decided to try... Not the final solution, yet if I can say a number, I'd say it reduced about 20 to 30 percent vibrations (gut estimate). In 5th and 6th, the bike feels softer, even at 4.5k or more rpms. 1 to 4, I can still feel the buzz, specially on tough acceleration... on road /high way. On city commute, you can hardly feel it. And indeed, the less altitude (sea level) you drive, the more noticeable the vibration is. but why would you run mineral oil in a bike that can rev to 11,000rpm? You are doing more harm than good. Yamaha recommend semi synthetic as a minimum - there's no way I'd accelerate my engine wear using mineral oil, it offers no protection whatsoever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuna Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 mine started to buzz as 3700 miles . to the point it was irritating . hum load related . i did notice the chain slack was more that 1 in. so i tightened it up . way better . and i could pull the links away from the rear sprocket ... so at 4k i put on a new chain . . on my fz09 i put one on at 9k .and yup i kept it lubed , but i do keep the front end up . yeee . rear tire done at 4k also . died on the fz at 2300 miles any way new chain . tire oh so nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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