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So I go to my dealer to get oil for my 600 mile change and they are telling me to use the yamaha full syn race oil inc15/50 ??? Hah? I say? And they say why not ? All the R1 and R6 guys are! Do I really need full synthetic oil? No I say ! So what is everyone  using?? Why spend all that cash??Hmmm?
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So I go to my dealer to get oil for my 600 mile change and they are telling me to use the yamaha full syn race oil inc15/50 ??? Hah? I say? And they say why not ? All the R1 and R6 guys are! Do I really need full synthetic oil? No I say ! So what is everyone  using?? Why spend all that cash??Hmmm?
I am using Motul 5100 semi-synthetic  10w40. 
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Full synthetic is probably not a good idea at 600 miles, but after 1500 miles or so it will definitely have better longevity than non-synthetic oil. The fully synthetic Rotella T that vespadaddy recommended is a great choice; full synthetic, safe for wet clutches, and very cheap.
 
I'm about to do my 600 mile oil change with Torco T-4 10w40 dino oil, but when I hit 1500 miles I'm switching to Rotella.
 
 
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BTW, check your owners manual for viscosity recommendations. 15w-50 is only recommended for very hot temperatures, I believe. 10w-40 is recommended for most common temps.
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I used Yamalube 10 40w dino for my 600 mile service and will switch to Rotella T6 5 40w full synthetic next oil change @ 12-1500 mile mark.
 
Below is a link to a good read on oil but there are many.
 
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
Everyday's a good day when your able to ride
 
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I'm on board with motul also! I have used it in my last 6 bikes and find that it helps with shifting and the engine ran cooler also in some cases ? I only ran full syn in my hog so I'm going with the 10/40 for now.
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BTW, check your owners manual for viscosity recommendations. 15w-50 is only recommended for very hot temperatures, I believe. 10w-40 is recommended for most common temps.
15w50 isn't mentioned in the manual, but 15w40 shows as good down to 30F which is perfect for NC. Mobil 1 15w50 has gotten my other Yamaha over 100,000 miles with 65,000 on the current clutch plates. It has NO "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" rating and is fine for a wet clutch. Running it in my FJ-09 now.....mothers milk.
Piedmont of NC
'15 FJ-09
'94 GTS-1000
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I'm a big fan of synthetic oil and have used the Mobil 1 15-50w for over 100,000 miles on my ST1100.  The engine is doing great and it's also still on the original clutch.
 
Having said that, the question for me is not should I use synthetic oil but rather when should I start using it.  I asked my one of the service techs at my dealer what he thought, and his recommendation was to wait until about 4000 miles to make sure everything was completely worn in first.  I do believe that waiting until after the bike is completely broken in is a good idea (definitely not before the 1000 mile full break-in period is complete).  4000 miles seems a bit long.  I'm thinking maybe @2500 miles.
 
Other thoughts about when to start using synthetic oil?
 
 
 
 
 
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Other thoughts about when to start using synthetic oil? 

Yes. 
Why is it okay for VAG to put synthetic oil in my petrol car during manufacture and leave it there for 20,000 miles or 2 years. Yet bike engines will fall to bits if you use the stuff from day 1 or do more than 6000 miles (4000 in some areas) between changes. 
 
Can someone provide a scientific answer that convinces a cynical bastard like me who just sees it as a £ or $ earning opportunity for dealers and manufacturers? 
This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is.
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In reality, there's probably little reason to not use synthetic from mile 0 in a modern motorcycle. But we don't give up on our superstitions so easily. :-)
 
Regarding oil longevity, there are significant reasons why most motorcycle engines are harder on oil than car engines. They run at far higher RPM, yes, but the more significant differences are that the transmission and wet clutch are bathed in engine oil. Cars have separate transmissions and dry clutches. Wet clutch friction plates probably drop more particulate contamination in the oil than anything else, so motorcycle engine oil and filters will naturally dirty faster than oil in a car.
 
Of course, if you have a BMW or some other motorcycle with a non-unit transmission and dry clutch, you might as well just use oil formulated for cars.
 
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I did the oil change with spectro 10/40 last night and I'm staying there until my 3000 mile oil change and will switch to motul 5100 semi synthetic at that point because I have been a 8 year fan of this oil and how it improved the shifting in all my triumphs and my 2000 zrx 1100.
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Other thoughts about when to start using synthetic oil? 

Yes. 
Why is it okay for VAG to put synthetic oil in my petrol car during manufacture and leave it there for 20,000 miles or 2 years. Yet bike engines will fall to bits if you use the stuff from day 1 or do more than 6000 miles (4000 in some areas) between changes. 
 
Can someone provide a scientific answer that convinces a cynical bastard like me who just sees it as a £ or $ earning opportunity for dealers and manufacturers? 
If you really want to see cynical go and buy a litre of that VAG juice from your friendly VW, or better still, Audi dealer. It will hurt! But I agree that it is more likely related to a marketing strategy than anything scientific.
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Yes. 
Why is it okay for VAG to put synthetic oil in my petrol car during manufacture and leave it there for 20,000 miles or 2 years. Yet bike engines will fall to bits if you use the stuff from day 1 or do more than 6000 miles (4000 in some areas) between changes. 
 
Can someone provide a scientific answer that convinces a cynical bastard like me who just sees it as a £ or $ earning opportunity for dealers and manufacturers? 
If you really want to see cynical go and buy a litre of that VAG juice from your friendly VW, or better still, Audi dealer. It will hurt! But I agree that it is more likely related to a marketing strategy than anything scientific.
 
Asda (UK name for Walmart) sell the correct grade Castrol Edge for £12 a litre. Not that the car uses any inbetween changes.
This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is.
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I did my 650 mile oil change with Mobil 1 4t 10w-40.  I've had good luck with mobil 1 syntehtic in the past.  I swear I can change at 5k in my truck and it still almost looks new.  Didn't realize there could be an issue with syntehtic early on, never heard of such a thing.  
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