groverdill Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 it is delicious, just sayin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vince Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Yamalube dino - can't justify the synthetic price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adjuster Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Once the rings are set, the rest is wear you don't want, so I'd think going to a full synthetic sooner, rather than later is a good idea. And many have pointed out that when the engine is built, and tested at the factory, it's fully broken in the rings by that point. So, going with synthetic from that point on is all you need. No deposits, better heat resistance and only benefits in my view. I've run Rotella T Synthetic, Red Line and some others, but the Rotella is the cheapest, and since I'm going to change it about every 3k, might as well be cheap. The Red Line did shift like nothing else, and there for awhile, I did one quart of Redline, and the rest Rotella for good blend of cost v/s benefit on the shift issue for my FZ1. (The FZ09 and FJ09 shift slightly less notchy than the FZ1 did, but the FJ09 does not like to downshift, especially when cold, so I'm looking forward to seeing if that improves with the oil change.) Brand new bike. Going to change the oil with less than 200 on the odometer. No good reason to wait for 600 miles as Yamaha calls for, just more wear and tear on parts you really don't want to wear, the rings have been set since I bought the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowflake Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Been running Rotella T 15-40 non-synthetic in my FJR for over 100K miles. Probably use the same stuff in my FJ-09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdog Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Went with the Shell Full Synthetic that the Yamaha dealer had in stock for my 4K service. I will post if I see, hear or feel any differences. 2015 Grey FJ09 with a few tweaks, 2007 HD Street Glide - Good Bike + Good Friends = Good Day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayotte Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Mobil1 10W-40. I like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertfjr Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 We went with Yamalube 10-40 non-syn for the first 1,800 miles. We have since moved on to Mobil 1 10-40 motorcycle specific synthetic. Side benefit has been the disappearance of the black spots on the exhaust. I use the same in my FJR...both bikes will be on it from now on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevesweetz Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Just hit 2000 miles and decided to oil change before a big trip I'm taking. Shelled out for Motul 7100 (full synthetic) 10w40 and so far I haven't noticed the bike behaving any differently than with the Yamalube dino oil that the shop put in for the first oil change. However, the oil is bright red like cherry sauce, so that's something fun! I'll have to give my exhaust a scrub and see if I also no longer get black spots - that would be nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timg Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 I'll have to give my exhaust a scrub and see if I also no longer get black spots - that would be nice.The black spots are a result of the catalytic converter. It is designed to convert harmful engine emissions to CO2 and water. The water combines with the normal carbon output and gives us black spots on the area around the muffler exit because it is a low pressure area. You can see this dripping out of the tailpipes of cages when they stop for a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member DavidS Posted August 14, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 14, 2016 I've been using Rotella 6 synthetic, and I'm pretty happy with it. Seems like things run a bit smoother, although I do replace the oil more often than they suggest, so it costs me more money. Overall I'm happy with it, and will likely continue using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdk Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Recently read comments from Shell customer support saying T6 should not be used on petrol engine with catalytic converters. Will try to find the exact quote. Edit: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2145592-Damn-new-oil-thread-Rotella-T6-full-synthetic-NOT-for-use-in-automobiles-per-Shell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member DavidS Posted August 14, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 14, 2016 Recently read comments from Shell customer support saying T6 should not be used on petrol engine with catalytic converters. Will try to find the exact quote. Edit: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2145592-Damn-new-oil-thread-Rotella-T6-full-synthetic-NOT-for-use-in-automobiles-per-Shell While I'm not an expert on motor oil, I did a fair amount of research before I switched to Rotella 6 on my FJ-09 and found that most of this was being generated by folks who aren't exactly experts in motor oil. Most people who have way more experience than I say that it is safe, and many use it on their bikes. I have been using Rotella 6 on my FJ-09 for a while and find it better than the YamaLube, but as always, your mileage may vary...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member keithu Posted August 16, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 16, 2016 We went with Yamalube 10-40 non-syn for the first 1,800 miles. We have since moved on to Mobil 1 10-40 motorcycle specific synthetic. Side benefit has been the disappearance of the black spots on the exhaust. I've been using Mobil 1 10w-40 for 9000 of the 11000 miles I have on my FJ, and I still get the black muffler spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wessie Posted August 16, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 16, 2016 We went with Yamalube 10-40 non-syn for the first 1,800 miles. We have since moved on to Mobil 1 10-40 motorcycle specific synthetic. Side benefit has been the disappearance of the black spots on the exhaust. I've been using Mobil 1 10w-40 for 9000 of the 11000 miles I have on my FJ, and I still get the black muffler spots aren't the black spots unburnt fuel from when the bike starts with a rich mixture, not unburnt oil? When the bike is warm the mixture weakens and the cat burns off any soot particles This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadstiff Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 The black spots are condensation from a cold exhaust. If it was oil you'd be fogging the neighborhood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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