sk8nsanta Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Thanks for the replies guys, I'm 99% certain I had the arrow and dot lined up with the clutch lever not being pulled in. I'll have to double check it though and report back. I'll also try and get my adjuster in about the same position with the two lock rings. The other thing I noticed was that there was a little back and forth play in the spindle. When you put the arm back on and line up the dots, was the spindle rotated towards or away from the engine? I'm guessing that it was rotated inwards towards the engine, so that when the arm pulls, the spindle can then rotate away? I swear I thought this would be a straight forward cable swap!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted May 31, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted May 31, 2018 Defeated feeling starts creeping in around this point. @sk8nsanta when you replaced the cable, the actuating arm didn't change position nor did anything internally, so nothing to panic about. The only thing that changed was the cable adjustment, so what I did was set the lower adjustment at its loosest and make sure the cable is correctly seated in the actuating arm. Insert the upper end in the clutch perch with the adjuster all the way in (most slack) then start to adjust slack out on the lower adjuster, moving the nuts toward the actuating arm. Like the photos above, I only had to adjust mine about out 1/4" - 3/8", then fine tune the adjustment at the lever. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted May 31, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted May 31, 2018 The other thing I noticed was that there was a little back and forth play in the spindle. When you put the arm back on and line up the dots, was the spindle rotated towards or away from the engine? I'm guessing that it was rotated inwards towards the engine, so that when the arm pulls, the spindle can then rotate away? I swear I thought this would be a straight forward cable swap!! Wait, when you removed the old cable, you removed the actuator arm? ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk8nsanta Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 The other thing I noticed was that there was a little back and forth play in the spindle. When you put the arm back on and line up the dots, was the spindle rotated towards or away from the engine? I'm guessing that it was rotated inwards towards the engine, so that when the arm pulls, the spindle can then rotate away? I swear I thought this would be a straight forward cable swap!! Wait, when you removed the old cable, you removed the actuator arm? Yea, by mistake previously before I ordered the new cable. On my commute home last week I started getting TONS of free play and barely made it home without stalling, so I was messing around with everything a bit, before turning here, and ultimately deciding to order a new cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk8nsanta Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 ...When you put the arm back on and line up the dots, was the spindle rotated towards or away from the engine? I'm guessing that it was rotated inwards towards the engine...Yes, splined shaft CCW. I recall this same issue happened to someone on here... possibly a couple of seasons ago. Have a look here. That sure sounds like what I'm dealing with. Looked for some videos online and I'll probably order a new gasket and give that a try. Thanks for the info, fingers crossed.....cause I really miss riding every day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Yes, splined shaft CCW. I recall this same issue happened to someone on here... possibly a couple of seasons ago. Have a look here. That sure sounds like what I'm dealing with. Looked for some videos online and I'll probably order a new gasket and give that a try. Thanks for the info, fingers crossed.....cause I really miss riding every day! I don’t think that it’s possible for the splined shaft to become disengaged from the “worm gear” setup without removing the cover! So don’t panic yet and order gaskets..... All you need to do is line up the dot with the arrow (approx, it may not be exact), have the spring in the correct place, and install the cable. Then, set the adjusting mechanism (with the 2 nuts) back into the bracket on top of the engine. Make sure that the cable end is inserted correctly into the end of the arm on the clutch cover side. It IS possible to not have it in there correctly, you squeeze the clutch lever once, and it “hops” down into where the recess where it belongs - and the. You have to adjust everything all over again. Adjust at the bracket first - then fine adjust at the lever. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk8nsanta Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 Thank you very much for all the replies. I'm 99% good to go at this point. I realized I had a major brain fart and when putting the actuating arm back onto the spline that I mistakenly had rotated the spline so that I was putting all the slack in it...thus very little to no resistance when pulling the clutch lever. Once I got that sorted out I had a very smooth, strong pull at the lever and had no issues with shifting gears, starting up, etc etc etc. NOW the new clutch cable procedure is complete! Only thing left to sort is that now when I pull the lever all the way in sitting still in 1st and start to release it to start moving, I have to let it out quite a ways before the clutch starts engaging. Is that simply a slack/free play issue? I'd much rather it start to engage a little closer to the bar. I do believe I have the correct amount of free play at the lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 Thank you very much for all the replies. I'm 99% good to go at this point. I realized I had a major brain fart and when putting the actuating arm back onto the spline that I mistakenly had rotated the spline so that I was putting all the slack in it...thus very little to no resistance when pulling the clutch lever. Once I got that sorted out I had a very smooth, strong pull at the lever and had no issues with shifting gears, starting up, etc etc etc. NOW the new clutch cable procedure is complete! Only thing left to sort is that now when I pull the lever all the way in sitting still in 1st and start to release it to start moving, I have to let it out quite a ways before the clutch starts engaging. Is that simply a slack/free play issue? I'd much rather it start to engage a little closer to the bar. I do believe I have the correct amount of free play at the lever. I changed mine yesterday after 60,500 miles. I did it on the road, in a parking lot, with a aid of another rider. We made the change in 45 min. Would have be a little less if I hadn't dropped my hex allen socket behind the radiator. Had to remove the side panels to get it out. Helps to have the help to push the cable rather then pulling it. You need to also pull the slack out as your helper pushes. Not mandatory, but it goes very smothly. We adjusted the top then the bottom, with someone holding the top in place. Final clutch lever is just as you described, but that was the way it was when new. I noticed as it was different than my FJR. Have never had an issue since, but I did play with the adjustment on the lever so it had a wider gap than recomended, just so the lever engagement point was closer to the handlebar. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk8nsanta Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Thank you very much for all the replies. I'm 99% good to go at this point. I realized I had a major brain fart and when putting the actuating arm back onto the spline that I mistakenly had rotated the spline so that I was putting all the slack in it...thus very little to no resistance when pulling the clutch lever. Once I got that sorted out I had a very smooth, strong pull at the lever and had no issues with shifting gears, starting up, etc etc etc. NOW the new clutch cable procedure is complete! Only thing left to sort is that now when I pull the lever all the way in sitting still in 1st and start to release it to start moving, I have to let it out quite a ways before the clutch starts engaging. Is that simply a slack/free play issue? I'd much rather it start to engage a little closer to the bar. I do believe I have the correct amount of free play at the lever. I changed mine yesterday after 60,500 miles. I did it on the road, in a parking lot, with a aid of another rider. We made the change in 45 min. Would have be a little less if I hadn't dropped my hex allen socket behind the radiator. Had to remove the side panels to get it out. Helps to have the help to push the cable rather then pulling it. You need to also pull the slack out as your helper pushes. Not mandatory, but it goes very smothly. We adjusted the top then the bottom, with someone holding the top in place. Final clutch lever is just as you described, but that was the way it was when new. I noticed as it was different than my FJR. Have never had an issue since, but I did play with the adjustment on the lever so it had a wider gap than recomended, just so the lever engagement point was closer to the handlebar. Yea, I think that's what I'm going to do as well. Been interested in replacing the stock levers with some CRG ones for a while, so maybe this is as good a time as any to make the swap to some adjustable ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Glad you got er figured out. This clutch just seems to always release near the end of the lever travel. Dialing in too much cable free play will sometimes cause you to not fully disengage the clutch when the lever is pulled in - which means you need to dial it back. A little extra freeplay may help. The service manual does instruct how you can change the stack height. Meaning, you can swap in a slightly thicker (2.1mm maybe? Provided your existing plate is 1.9mm) clutch plate. This can help make the stack height a tiny bit thicker, which compensates for the wear in the clutch and ultimately at what point in the lever travel the clutch engage/disengages. (A bit wordy, hope that makes sense.) -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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