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CLUTCH CABLE


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It took me about 20 minutes to route the cable and about 40 minutes to realize that the kickstand was down. Every time I tried to test the clutch and a gear shift it stalled. Too damn funny.
Hahaha, That's like why won't my bike start. 20mins later... oh the kill switch is off...  Haven't done that in awhile but I did bumped the kill switch on the ATV once while stopped on the trail, took 20mins to realize what I'd done.
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It took me about 20 minutes to route the cable and about 40 minutes to realize that the kickstand was down. Every time I tried to test the clutch and a gear shift it stalled. Too damn funny.
Hahaha, That's like why won't my bike start. 20mins later... oh the kill switch is off...  Haven't done that in awhile but I did bumped the kill switch on the ATV once while stopped on the trail, took 20mins to realize what I'd done.
 
Been there done that ........ embarrassed to tell the assembled motorcyclists what the problem was.  
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20170525_070506.jpg
 
I have been waiting to post this for 3wks due to work...ordered a new cable from partzilla and this is what I got... Pretty obvious its not the updated cable and the " new part number label " looks to be made off from a Office Depot lable printer...PartZilla Customer Service says I need to send them a photocopy of my ownership papers and the cable back so they can correct the problem... Ummm no, I will send the cable to Yamaha HQ and ask them if this is a legit upgraded cable or not...
 
  
2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp
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Thanks for posting this norcal. I was about to order a cultch cable from PartsZilla.
I order a spare cable from Bike Bandit two weeks ago. This was before I knew about the revised cable. I ordered the -01 and they sent me the new -02.
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Recently saw a post on the MT09 Tracer FB page where a person had his clutch cable replaced at the time he had his riser recall done.(He had to pay for the cable & labor.)
 
Why didn't Yamaha step up and do a cable replacement recall at the same time as the bar riser recall?
 
Would be interesting to see a poll of how many have had the cable failure.
 
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Recently saw a post on the MT09 Tracer FB page where a person had his clutch cable replaced at the time he had his riser recall done.(He had to pay for the cable & labor.) 
Why didn't Yamaha step up and do a cable replacement recall at the same time as the bar riser recall?
 
Would be interesting to see a poll of how many have had the cable failure.

Because it would cost them a fortune and it isnt a safety issue as such, like the handlebars are. 
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Because it would cost them a fortune and it isnt a safety issue as such, like the handlebars are. 
Guess that would be depend on where & when the cable fails-in traffic wouldn't be a good place. 
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  • 1 month later...
My clutch cable lasted a whopping 3,500 miles before becoming seriously frayed at the bend on the way home last weekend. B-|  
 
I just ordered the R1 cable and Bolt clutch actuator arm assy. I'll post the results after the install.
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My clutch cable lasted a whopping 3,500 miles before becoming seriously frayed at the bend on the way home last weekend. B-|   
I just ordered the R1 cable and Bolt clutch actuator arm assy. I'll post the results after the install.
This picture shows the best way to route the R1 cable. Also, you may need to remove the top bolts of the radiator to feed the cable through. You will like the R1 cable - a lot! 
2017_07_01_010_R1_Cable.jpg
 
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I installed the R1 cable (routed as shown in the photo from the prior post) and the Bolt actuation arm. I would have to compare side by side with another FJ to say if the slightly long Bolt arm made a difference (although it may have still played a part in helping to compensate for the longer R1 inner cable). Of course things are nice and smooth with the new cable and I am anticipating that it will last longer than 3,500 miles (see attached photo).
 
One other thing: I noticed that with my usual adjustment of approx 2-3 mm of free play in the cable that the free play was not completely taken up by the return spring on the clutch arm. This is because the arm was rotated clockwise one tooth thus relieving some tension on the return spring. Perhaps the Bolt return spring has a different part number and may be wound or shaped slightly different? In any case, I used a couple of vise grips to introduce a slight bend where the spring contacts the arm (see attached photo; not yet repositioned behind the arm - sorry it's a bit blurry). Now it returns perfectly and feels proper at the clutch lever when returning back to the perch.
 
IMG_6589.jpg
 
IMG_6590.jpg
 
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Mine just frayed. 11,800KM on the bike. Bikeless for a week while they wait for the part.
 
One shift, clutch was nice and snappy. Next shift, tons of free play and clunky shifts. Adjusted the cable, and felt like squeezing a sponge. At least it didn't snap.
 
Seems like this is WAY too common on FJ's! Mines a 2015, so maybe they've addressed it, but I somehow doubt it.
 
At least it's the least expensive thing that can go wrong. I was worried the pressure plate went or something.
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Mine just frayed. 11,800KM on the bike. Bikeless for a week while they wait for the part.  
One shift, clutch was nice and snappy. Next shift, tons of free play and clunky shifts. Adjusted the cable, and felt like squeezing a sponge. At least it didn't snap.
 
Seems like this is WAY too common on FJ's! Mines a 2015, so maybe they've addressed it, but I somehow doubt it.
 
At least it's the least expensive thing that can go wrong. I was worried the pressure plate went or something.
There is a fix of sorts... see if the dealer can get you the updated cable. Comes with the steel leader tube that is shaped differently than the '15. I replaced with the R1 cable just as the new design came out.
 
 
Any idea if Yamaha even sells the old one anymore? They've already placed the order. Yamaha will probably ship it before the shop opens again on Tuesday for me to check if it's the new one.
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When the order comes in look at the part number on the packaging, it should be 2PP-26335-02, if the last digit is 1 then you have the old cable. Refuse the order and have them order the new version.

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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