CLUTCH CABLE

[2and3cylinders]

Cable, Clutch
Yamaha item: 2PP-26335-02-00
Old Sku: 2PP-26335-01-00
1 $14.20
Part Shark 877-999-5686
 
I tried the 2004 R1 cable in conjunction with the Bolt "push arm". The R1 cable worked but being 1.5" longer pushed outward the push arm a lot and was aPITA to get adjusted properly.
 
The new Mark 2 FJ-09 cable (see above PN) is OK but while the same length as the original still required setting the bottom adjuster and minimum.
 
I also can't tell if the longer Bolt push arm increased the moment arm length enough to discern a reduction in significant inch-pounds of effort to release the clutch. A 2017 FJ/FZ-09 or XSR900 slipper clutch pack (which does SIGNIFICANTLY reduce lever effort but I don't care much about the back-torque function because you shouldn't be dropping the clutch enough to need it) may soon be required because I've developed arthritic pain in my finger joints. Don't know what I'll do with the front brake! Not LOL.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[eeetea]

Cable, Clutch Yamaha item: 2PP-26335-02-00
Old Sku: 2PP-26335-01-00
1 $14.20
Part Shark 877-999-5686
 
I tried the 2004 R1 cable in conjunction with the Bolt "push arm". The R1 cable worked but being 1.5" longer pushed outward the push arm a lot and was aPITA to get adjusted properly.
 
The new Mark 2 FJ-09 cable (see above PN) is OK but while the same length as the original still required setting the bottom adjuster and minimum.
 
I also can't tell if the longer Bolt push arm increased the moment arm length enough to discern a reduction in significant inch-pounds of effort to release the clutch. A 2017 FJ/FZ-09 or XSR900 slipper clutch pack (which does SIGNIFICANTLY reduce lever effort but I don't care much about the back-torque function because you shouldn't be dropping the clutch enough to need it) may soon be required because I've developed arthritic pain in my finger joints. Don't know what I'll do with the front brake! Not LOL.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

try the rerouting to reduce that bend...that will make your clutch lighter.
 
I'd say see my thread but all the piccys have disappeared due to some forum changes and I need to get that sorted.
 

[2and3cylinders]

With the Mark 2 cable with its armored 90 degree portion it has to follow the path of the original cable at least down through the stay which is retained by the top left radiator attachment bracket, south of that there really is not a better route to the adjuster stay just upstream of the push arm. I had the R1 cable as either you or someone else had indicated going across and down in the middle before again passing through the radiator stay, and did NOT feel clutch lever pull was any lighter.
 
Were some of these your pics?
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[eeetea]

@2and3cylinders lower pictures are of my bike, (with the O ring as a key fob) where I've routed the clutch cable to join the other cables - I found leaving the route the same as the original, was still a tight bend and creates a lot of friction and tightness.
 
the cable passes over the top of radiator in the same place as the original, it's only that very top portion by the yokes.
 
I don't have arthritis, but RSI, and riding was getting impossible until this modification - I've done 450 miles (over extensive twisty road, up and down the gearbox riding) in a day with no issues since this change. I hope this can work out for you too!

[2and3cylinders]

As I said above with the R1 cable I tried that route and didn't find any real advantage but with the new mark 2 cable with its large metal tube 90-degree configuration it will not extend far enough to go down in the middle of the yolk and has to follow the original OEM path to the top of the radiator again. I also have the bolt push arm which may be helped a bit

[Esperance]

After reading all the clutch cable posts I got the R1 cable and the bolt lever arm. These are my observations:-
 
Important to get the crimped part of the R1 cable pulled about an inch clear of the top of the radiator.
I only rotated the bolt lever arm one position clockwise.
I unscrewed the cable adjuster on the engine as far as possible to take up some of the extra inner cable slack.
After trying different routes for the upper part of the cable, the best one was (as other have found)next to the throttle cables.
This method completely eliminates any sharp curves in the cable which would increase friction and wear.
The resulting clutch action is much lighter and extremely smooth.
The adjuster at the clutch lever is at about the mid point so there is enough room for adjustment over time.
Thanks to everyone for their pioneering research.

[phpaul]

Okay, I've skimmed through this thread and I think I know what I want to do, but want to check before I start throwing money at it.
 
Went for my first decent ride since installing the Corbin seat.  It sits noticeably taller and I have decided that the bars need to be raised.
 
My plan is to get the BikeMaster riser kit from Ebay and the Motion Pro R1 clutch cable to account for both the length due to raised bars and the potential issues with the stock cable.
 
If I read correctly, there should be enough play (given some adjustment) in the stock throttle cables to work.
 
It appears that some folks used a different arm at the clutch end to reduce effort but I'm fine with the action of the existing hardware as long as the R1 cable will fit, so I don't plan to change the arm.
 
Am I missing anything?

[Esperance]

phpaul, you will need to rotate the arm clockwise at least one spline on the shaft to take up the extra length of the R1 inner cable. The advantage with the Bolt longer arm is that it takes up more of the slack also it makes the clutch pull easier. If you don't do this you may not have much adjustment range left at the clutch lever
 

[Esperance]

I should have said that rotating the arm is needed because the R1 inner cable is too long compared to the stock inner cable. If you don't rotate the arm then you use up all the adjustment at both ends of the cable so you have no way to compensate for the inner cable stretching. It is true that the R1 cable should allow the bars to be  raised at least an inch but the routing would have to be more direct and it might not be possible to avoid the sharp bend that is the problem with the stock cable. It might be better to get a cable made that is 2 or 3 inches longer than stock.
 

[berryber]

I installed the updated Yamaha cable last week. Part 2pp-26335-02-00. Ordered it from babbittsonline. About 30$ delivered.

[ericm]

Any improvement in clutch action with the new FJ cable?

[ilanr1]

Hi , is the new Yamaha 2017 cable is really better ?
Thanks

[mjsracing]

...my OEM cable was also in good shape, but had developed a funky kink/bend at the end of the steel tube. I suppose if one rides in stop and go traffic a lot, that spot would eventually get stressed enough to start letting go.

Only 11,000 miles on bike, mostly 2-lane roads. My clutch cable snapped with no warning last weekend.  I road to a safe parking lot, shifted into neutral and surveyed the damage. There was a severe kink right at the end of the steel tube. Inner cable was hardly frayed, more like snapped. I was able roll down a slight hill, snap into first, then all good to ride the 10 miles back to a friends house. Got it in neutral again to stop gracefully. 
Ordered the updated part for $15 from partzilla. The new part (2PP-26335-02-00) has a smooth radius 90degree bend in the steel tube. I have not installed it yet, but I'll post comparison pictures.
 
EDIT: Photo of the new style cable below. I duct taped the new cable to the old cable and pulled it down through to get the new cable into place.
 

 
 
 

[angrygirafe]

Ordered the updated cable this morning. I'm at almost 10k miles, and haven't had any problems, but have a 3 day, 1500 mile trip planned in a week and a half, and don't want to end up stuck in the middle of nowhere.

[steveb]

My bike has about 24K miles on it without any problems, but ordered the new cable (also have a trip coming up) and will most likely keep the old cable as a spare.