CLUTCH CABLE

[bugsplatered]

If the cable was ordered from Yamaha it should be the new version.

[thruster8999]

I have the stock cable with aftermarket lever and I am trying to beable to have better adjustments but I am at the end on the lever adjustment and the one at the other end. My question is can I change the lever pull where the two dot line up line and move it a spline or two to create alittle more slack in the cable?

 

[luke]

Mine also just gave up just shy of 12K miles, mid shift, 2>3 going a bit over 50. Cable failed usual spot about 4+ inches out.
 
Frustrated that Yamaha hasn't done a service bulletin on this knowing how flawed the design is
 
Has anyone had any additional follow up ? How many complaints does it take to affect a recall ?
 
Though the fix is cheap and easy, depending on the time and speed of failure there are safety concerns as well potential to damage the gearbox (those comparing this to european brand faults might want to re-think their position)
 
As for the replacement, its fairly easy to do, even single handed without taking any plastics off, using the updated Yamaha cable.
 
1. You'll want to feed it from handle bar side.
 
2. Cut off the original metal bend to get down to straight cable
 
3. Use masking tape on the new metal elbow to prevent scratches (I missed this step)
 
4. Tape the cables back to back, DO NOT OVERLAP using electrical tape at 45deg angle, cover twice with two runs/layers
 
5. Lower the run facing forward of the bike, under the headlight and pull from the clutch side
 
6. Fill out https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
 

[xcsp]

Swapped out the cable on my '16 with the new version at 800 miles on the clock, rather not do a roadside repair.
New cable for around $22, installed conveniently in the garage with all necessary tools and no delay to others while on a ride was worth doing now rather than later.

[DavidS]

Just a suggestion for all who ride the FJ-09, Order a spare clutch cable and put it in your garage, or better yet, under your seat. The original cable is famous for fraying at inopportune times, and having the cable at the ready will keep you riding.

[betoney]

Just a suggestion for all who ride the FJ-09, Order a spare clutch cable and put it in your garage, or better yet, under your seat. The original cable is famous for fraying at inopportune times, and having the cable at the ready will keep you riding.

I did exactly that.  I ordered the new revised version and keep it in my side case, hoping I wont need it when I'm out in the middle of nowhere.  I am closing in on 15K miles, so I'll change it out once the riding season starts to wind down.
 

[nsmiller]

 

 
 
7,700 miles and the cable on our 2015 looks like this. Cable hadn't completely snapped yet, but it was only a matter of time. Replaced with OEM updated part number. DIY video coming soon.

[BBB]

looking forward to the video @nsmiller. I am going to get a new cable ordered up having read this thread.

[OutlanderBC]

I am over 13K on my original cable and I'm starting to wonder how much longer it will last, yesterday when I pulled my clutch lever in all the way I noticed that it took an extra second for the obvious neutral clutch sound to go silent when fully engage. This is the first time I've noticed the delay, it was quite cold out when I fired up the bike, not sure it that's a factor here.
 
I have a second (updated) cable in the side case, but I'm planning to get the R1 cable in the spring as I also want to install a bar riser.
I'll be sure to inspect and post pics of the original cable when its off the bike.

[Pmych]

Long time listener, first time caller.
 
I recently replaced my clutch cable with the R1, my bars with the Renthal Street Naked (which are fantastic, btw), and installed the Bolt clutch arm.  I tried routing the cable through the center of the tree alongside the throttle cables, but it gets waaay too tight when I turn the bars to the right.  Tight as in, I can't turn anywhere close to full right.  I've moved the cable back over to the left (closer to the original cable position) and it gives me the slack I need, but it creates more of a bend than I'd like where it enters the clutch lever.
I've been over every post and picture in this discussion at least a dozen times and I can't figure out what I'm missing.
- New cable taped to old and pulled through, check.
- Cable adjusted full out (to end of threads) at clutch, check.
- Cable adjusted to appropriate play at lever, check.
- Bolt arm moved clockwise two splines to take out slack, check.
- Crimp in cable about an inch above radiator mount, check.
 
Is the increased sweep of my Street Naked bars really taking up that much of the R1 cable?  Has anyone else with the Renthals encountered this?
Would I be better off with the Motion Pro +1.5"?  Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

[betoney]

I've moved the cable back over to the left (closer to the original cable position) and it gives me the slack I need, but it creates more of a bend than I'd like where it enters the clutch lever.

I am trying to picture what you are saying...  there shouldn't be any bend in the cable except the natural curve of the metal portion on the lever end.  Can you post a picture of the excessive bend? I just changed mine last weekend at 15k miles, I thoroughly inspected the old cable and couldn't even detect any wear marks.  Aside from the outer vinyl being dirty, everything appeared to be in perfect condition.
 

[Pmych]

I'll try to get a picture of my current cable routing tomorrow after work. Until then, my question is more about why my cable is so tight when I try and route it through the center with the throttle cables. I've seen people talk about swapping to the Renthal Street Naked bars, and a lot of people using the R1 cable. I think my problem is the combination of the two.
Routing through the center gives the shallowest curve and seems to give the smoothest lever pull. Unfortunately, it pulls way too tight when I turn the bars to the right a bit.
The more I think it through the more I think a longer cable is my only option with the Renthals. 

[betoney]

When I replaced my cable, I didn't alter the routing at all, I taped the new to the old cable and routed it exactly as it was delivered from the factory. I do have the Heli-Bars risers, 1" up and 1" back with the stock cable and have no binding at all. I raised the front wheel off the ground and turned the bars side to side to full lock with no binding or tight spots.

[eeetea]

I did the R1 and bolt actuator arm.. there was a full picture summary but courtesy of photobucket no more.
 
what I can tell you is that the RI cable has a cleat about 1/3 of the way down/ and when in situ you can see this just at the top of the Rad.
 
I'll try to find the pictures again and repost_ but I'm at work today so won't be straight away.

[Pmych]

I did the R1 and bolt actuator arm.. there was a full picture summary but courtesy of photobucket no more. 
what I can tell you is that the RI cable has a cleat about 1/3 of the way down/ and when in situ you can see this just at the top of the Rad.
 
I'll try to find the pictures again and repost_ but I'm at work today so won't be straight away.

Thank you very much.  I've seen most of the pictures that can be found and my cable routing mirrors them exactly.  My cleat is also visible just above the radiator clip.  I suppose it's possible I somehow received a slightly shorter R1 cable (doubtful, I know, but I'm out of ideas).  What I do know is when mine is routed through the center it binds badly when I turn the bars right.  I can't get anywhere near full lock.  It's just very strange as the pictures I've seen seem to show ample cable when routed through center by the throttle cables. Then again, maybe I'm looking at this from the wrong end.  As I mentioned, I taped my new cable to the old and pulled it through.  Just for kicks let's assume it's possible my stock cable was routed around the motor incorrectly (now I'm really reaching).  Just to confirm my routing is correct, does everyone else's cable pass around the left side of the left throttle body, lightly rest on the cylinder head cover, then pass straight out the front through the cable clip at the top of the radiator?