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CLUTCH CABLE


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I have been watching this thread for two years now, with the idea that I would have to do the clutch cable change soon.  I'm at 52,000 and mine seems to be working just fine.  I had it lubed at 25K and I re lubed it around 48K.  Knowing my odds, I ordered a new OEM -2 cable which I will put under the seat or in my tail bag, or side cases.  I will carry tools to replace on the road.  I want to hold up my friends while I stop and fix a broken cable in 45-60 minutes on the side of the road.  I love helping others out with road side repairs and, no reason to not feel the same for my own repairs.  These dam bike have gotten so good these days, we rarely have breakdowns.  We are getting soft.  The idea that they should never have problems and all you need is a credit card.  I dislike that as it make you look helpless.  If it breaks down, I prefer to be more positive and try to figure out how to fix it to continue on.  Like in a flat tire, plug it and continue.  Like a boy scout, be prepared.  I watched a
of a Brit replace his in about an hour holding his phone in one hand and almost doing the hole job with the other hand.(almost)

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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I’m going to be swapping out my OEM cable on my ‘15 even though it shows no signs of wear. I have the updated cable ready to go in, but is this a good opportunity to lubricate it before fitting, or is it not required with a new cable?

Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...)

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They should be sealed and pre-lubricated.
But, lube it if it makes you feel better, as it can't hurt.

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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Well the ****ing cables separated as I was pulling the new one through, using the old one as a guide. Panels, air box and tank removal later and the new one is now fitted. It was a good chance to clean the whole tank and remove the grit that accumulates betwen the panels.
 
The irony: no visible damage to my old cable (but at least I’ve removed the chance of failure)
Double irony: my carbtune pro is due to arrive tomorrow (but at least I’m now familiar with what I will have to remove to do the throttle body synch).

Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...)

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Well the ****ing cables separated as I was pulling the new one through, using the old one as a guide. Panels, air box and tank removal later and the new one is now fitted. It was a good chance to clean the whole tank and remove the grit that accumulates betwen the panels. 
The irony: no visible damage to my old cable (but at least I’ve removed the chance of failure)
Double irony: my carbtune pro is due to arrive tomorrow (but at least I’m now familiar with what I will have to remove to do the throttle body synch).
 
When you say separated, do you mean the housing came apart?

Let’s go Brandon

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I had cable tied the new cable to the old one, securely I thought, but when there was a slight resistance the cable ties gave up and I was left with the old one in my hand and the new one stuck in the guts of the engine bay.

Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...)

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And now it's my turn. tongue.png 18,000 miles.  :|
 
bffc1175b9c16b251079de16568a5f37.jpg0fd1a1db0447f0c7460bd490540d8f81.jpg

"It doesn't matter who walks in, you know the joke is still the same"  Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. USA

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Cables, master cylinders, slave cylinders, hydraulic hoses. I've had them all fail.... Cables are easier to carry spares for though... ;)

"It doesn't matter who walks in, you know the joke is still the same"  Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. USA

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Okay guys, I need some help. My cable felt like it was starting to go last week (or so I thought it was) and so I ordered a new cable last week, picked it up yesterday and then got to work. I was able to zip tie the new cable to the old, and with some finesse pull the new one through in place of the old cable. WOOHOO! ...not so fast. After getting the new cable hooked up, I can't get the free play or slack in the cable figured out to save my life, and just when I thought I had got it, I started the bike in neutral and was easily able to shift down to 1st with no clutch actuation whatsoever and the bike promptly stalled. If I try to start the bike in 1st with the clutch lever pulled, it promptly lurches and stalls. My pulling in the clutch lever doesn't seem to be doing anything on the internals. The actuation arm moves, but nothing really happens inside it seems.
 
Defeated feeling starts creeping in around this point. I thought I had gotten the arm on the notched spindle lined up correctly, and that spindle only moves a slight amount in each way. I tried re-positioning the arm in various ways to try and get some sort of real actuation but couldn't get it. Also, I kept going back and forth on where the barrel adjusted for the cable tension should really sit in the holder. For those with the newer cable, was it in the middle?
 
Any help or suggestions would really be appreciated, I don't want to have to tow this to a shop if it's a simple thing I'm missing.
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You can see an arrow cast into the clutch cover right at the engagement lever, cable eyelet attaches to the engagement lever. Return spring is between the two markings. That arrow needs to line up with the pin hole on the engagement lever when disengaged. Sounds like an adjustment problem on the bottom.
 
P1030961.jpg
 
P1030960.jpg
 
Everyday's a good day when your able to ride
 
15 FJ-09 - 2WDW ECU flash, Givi SV201, Nelson Rigg tail bag, OES sliders, Koubalink extenders, Ermax Sport, Vista Cruise, OEM seat mod, (smiles)
07 Honda ST1300A (sold)
06 Kawi KLR650 - Big Gun full exhaust, Corbin, Givi, PMR racks, carb mod (keeper)
97 Honda VFR750 - Traxxion Dynamics, Penske, Givi 3 piece, carbon exhaust (keeper?)
20+ years of snowmobiles
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Just been out and looked at mine. Here's a view from the side, of the cable as it attaches to the actuator arm
 
 
clutch_side.jpg
 
So, you can see how i have it for adjusting.
 
And here's the view from the top, showing the dot and arrow lining up.
 
 
 
 
clutch_top.jpg
 

Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...)

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