Premium Member paladin Posted November 11, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted November 11, 2016 I finally got my oem cable in and installed. Was able to zip tie and tape the old yo the new and pull the new one up. It hung up at the radiator bracket so had to remove the plastics. New cable is much smoothe. The old cable had stretched 7/16 ". I found out why; cable had parted almost all the way, about 6" from lever. If you get rapid cable stretch it is a sign that it is about to break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fj09chris Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 The BMW's I had came with inherent problems like final drive ($2,200) or an odd linked ABS braking system that had to be flushed bi-annually at a cost of $250. If it failed, $2,500. Not to mention the crazy pricing on pretty much anything else. I'm so happy to own a bike on which a clutch cable issue is a big deal and costs a whopping $12 to replace with OEM, or $50 for the upgraded Motion Pro solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blindjoebeck Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 I've been carrying a spare clutch cable on my '02 FZ1 for 90k miles and never had to use it -- in fact I can't remember the last time I broke a clutch cable. At least until a couple of days ago, that is, when the cable on my FJ-09 broke, right after it rolled past 20k. Broke right at the usual spot, 3" away from the lever end. Lots of tools but no spare added up to a long tow. Ron Ayers shipped a new cable in less than a week. As recommended earlier in this thread, I zip-tied the new cable to the old one and snaked it up to the handle bar; I found it easier to remove all the plastic, mostly so I could see what I was doing. I noticed that both of the fake carbon-fiber trim pieces below the tank have cracks just above where they are screwed to the frame. Sigh. Anybody have a good idea about what kind of glue to use to reinforce those sections? -- Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member micah2074 Posted November 17, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted November 17, 2016 I noticed that both of the fake carbon-fiber trim pieces below the tank have cracks just above where they are screwed to the frame. Sigh. Anybody have a good idea about what kind of glue to use to reinforce those sections? -- Joe http://fj-09.org/thread/1008/cracked-side-panel Let’s go Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member britelitebob Posted November 17, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted November 17, 2016 I noticed that both of the fake carbon-fiber trim pieces below the tank have cracks just above where they are screwed to the frame. Sigh. Anybody have a good idea about what kind of glue to use to reinforce those sections? -- Joe 3m 5200 marine adhesive, the stuff is amazing, I've been using it for years on everything from ships to cracked appliance parts. It's an elastometric polyurethane so it's xtremely strong when dry, just clean the area with with a solvent first and lay it in thick. You can get it at any marine or industrial supply. BLB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blindjoebeck Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 Hey Micah and Bob, Thanks for the thread reference and adhesive suggestion. I'll follow them up. This forum is a great resource. -- Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member micah2074 Posted November 17, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted November 17, 2016 Hey Micah and Bob, Thanks for the thread reference and adhesive suggestion. I'll follow them up. This forum is a great resource. -- Joe The panels are $17 apiece and new ones have been updated so they aren't supposed to crack again. Let’s go Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridebmx Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 Just had my clutch cable replaced at 3000 Miles!!!! I couldn't believe it failed in soo few miles, it didn't fully snap but got to the point where I couldn't adjust it anymore at all and barely made it to the dealer to change it, they would not give me or didn't even show me the old cable to see where it was about to snap because it was a "warranty issue". New cable feels soo nice and smooth at least, let's see how long till this one fails, Ill be buying that R1 cable next most likely! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member clint Posted January 3, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted January 3, 2017 Looking to be proactive on this..er, just looking to do stuff to the bike, really (now that it's apart).. noticed that the OEM part number has changed to 2PP-26335-02-00. I wonder if there's an improvement. Is the metallic tubing on the lever side part of the cable assembly, i.e. attached/non-removable? If it is not part of the assembly, can the OEM cable be used without it? Seems that it's the rigid, poorly shaped tube that is stressing the cable? Yes, it is an improvement. Just like every version of the Yamaha CCT. Simply use the R1 cable with the Yam Bolt lever. Unfortunately, the 5 HP gain from the R1 cable is immediately lost with the lever from the Bolt. Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member clint Posted January 4, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted January 4, 2017 ...Simply use the R1 cable with the Yam Bolt lever.... ...you are not serious here...(?) Absolutely, @eeetea documented it here. Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member clint Posted January 4, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted January 4, 2017 Absolutely, @eeetea documented it here. ...nnooooo! . I have shorty levers, and the pull tension doesn't really bother me. I can't really use the long levers (short digits + fat bar grips). It's not the clutch lever at the bar, it's the one on the clutch. Read the link Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BentAero Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 ...nnooooo! . I have shorty levers, and the pull tension doesn't really bother me. I can't really use the long levers (short digits + fat bar grips). It's not the clutch lever at the bar, it's the one on the clutch. Read the link Anyone know why the 5VY-26335-01-00 R1 cable is more than twice as much money as the FJ cable? Is it platinum lined? FWIW, when you put the R1 part number into the Motion Pro search, it gives you part # 05-0359 @ $16.99 link Any reason not to use the Motion Pro R1 cable? Keep Asheville weird! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eeetea Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 It's not the clutch lever at the bar, it's the one on the clutch. Read the link Anyone know why the 5VY-26335-01-00 R1 cable is more than twice as much money as the FJ cable? Is it platinum lined? FWIW, when you put the R1 part number into the Motion Pro search, it gives you part # 05-0359 @ $16.99 link Any reason not to use the Motion Pro R1 cable? The only reason I used the R1 cable and the actuator arm from the bolt was because it was done by Clint before me. So whilst I'm happy to be thought of as thoroughly ingenious limey, the credit has to go elsewhere in point of fact. I will take credit for the cable routing - I did do that slightly differently, and it did result in a lighter action, however, (only) on full lock, the cable is slightly tight (it doesn't prevent and its not noticible really)...but for riding is perfect. Look army photos where the cable's little sheath trim nut thingy is, just above the radiator...any further back and the cable is too tight. I suspect there is more than one way to bake a cake, so try your cheaper more cost effective cable, and let everyone know how it goes. Dissemination of knowledge is a good thing. Might save others a few quid. I suspec that other cables and combinations would work Honda SS50, Kawasaki Z200, Honda 400/4, Yamaha TDM900, Yamaha XT660Z Tenere, KTM 990 Adventure, BMW R1200GS, Mr Stevens, and my favourite of all: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer...a bit like FJ-09 only properly named :¬P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member clint Posted January 4, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted January 4, 2017 Anyone know why the 5VY-26335-01-00 R1 cable is more than twice as much money as the FJ cable?... ...@eeetea says "The R1 clutch cable on the other hand is chunky and silky"....hmmm. @eeetea likes his cables like his women! Chunky and silky! Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 4, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted January 4, 2017 Anyone know why the 5VY-26335-01-00 R1 cable is more than twice as much money as the FJ cable? Is it platinum lined? FWIW, when you put the R1 part number into the Motion Pro search, it gives you part # 05-0359 @ $16.99 link Any reason not to use the Motion Pro R1 cable? The only reason I used the R1 cable and the actuator arm from the bolt was because it was done by Clint before me. So whilst I'm happy to be thought of as thoroughly ingenious limey, the credit has to go elsewhere in point of fact. I will take credit for the cable routing - I did do that slightly differently, and it did result in a lighter action, however, (only) on full lock, the cable is slightly tight (it doesn't prevent and its not noticible really)...but for riding is perfect. Look army photos where the cable's little sheath trim nut thingy is, just above the radiator...any further back and the cable is too tight. I suspect there is more than one way to bake a cake, so try your cheaper more cost effective cable, and let everyone know how it goes. Dissemination of knowledge is a good thing. Might save others a few quid. I suspec that other cables and combinations would work eeetea, I've looked for your post that includes your clutch cable routing photos but cannot find it (them). I've downloaded Clint's clutch cable routing photos though. I plan on going to the Bolt clutch push lever as well (I'm doing both when I change the OEM handlebars for the Outlaw Racing 1-1/8" "Low TH-08" bars I just received). Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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