CLUTCH CABLE

[bruceintucson]

Just curious, why not just go with a Motion Pro cable without the metal sleeve at the top? Gotta be about the same price or less than a R1 cable & a new actuating arm.

[clint]

Eeetea,
 
I've looked for your post that includes your clutch cable routing photos but cannot find it (them).  I've downloaded Clint's clutch cable routing photos though.
Thx

@eeetea clutch cable routing here.

[eeetea]

Eeetea, 
I've looked for your post that includes your clutch cable routing photos but cannot find it (them).  I've downloaded Clint's clutch cable routing photos though.
Thx

@eeetea clutch cable routing here.

Ah. Ta muchly.

[bruceintucson]

Just curious, why not just go with a Motion Pro cable without the metal sleeve at the top? Gotta be about the same price or less than a R1 cable & a new actuating arm.

... Bruce, do you know if that sleeve can be removed? Getting rid of that would be a good start to fixing the clutch cable issues.
On the stock FJ-09 cable, no. Well I guess you could unsolder the barrel at the lever end, remove the metal sleeve, replace it with a flexible sleeve of the same length....but no. 

[2and3cylinders]

Eeetea, 
I've looked for your post that includes your clutch cable routing photos but cannot find it (them).  I've downloaded Clint's clutch cable routing photos though.
Thx

@eeetea clutch cable routing here.

Thanks, waiting for 16 x 1.5 mm tap set ($14) to tap new handlebars ($55, lower, yes lower with more sweep), MP R1 cable ($16) and Bolt clutch push lever ($14). 
I hope the new bars are not too low (reduced height and rise) and have enough sweep, otherwise I'm going for the Renthal Street Nakeds but the intial swap at least would be good practice.
 
I know it was a different thread but how would one most easily and effectively sand down the knurling on the clutch end of a handlebar?

[wal]

@eeetea clutch cable routing here.

Thanks, waiting for 16 x 1.5 mm tap set ($14) to tap new handlebars ($55, lower, yes lower with more sweep), MP R1 cable ($16) and Bolt clutch push lever ($14). 
I hope the new bars are not too low (reduced height and rise) and have enough sweep, otherwise I'm going for the Renthal Street Nakeds but the intial swap at least would be good practice.
 
I know it was a different thread but how would one most easily and effectively sand down the knurling on the clutch end of a handlebar?

i used a file 1st to take the tops off slightly, then 240 grit wet/dry , ending with 400 grit, this also handily left a nice snug fit for the heated grips i was fitting, ready for the glue  
i went with Renthal street nakeds and opposite to you, 30mm risers....
 

[2and3cylinders]

i used a file 1st to take the tops off slightly, then 240 grit wet/dry , ending with 400 grit, this also handily left a nice snug fit for the heated grips i was fitting, ready for the glue  
i went with Renthal street nakeds and opposite to you, 30mm risers....

Thanks, I have the OEM heated grips the dealer installed before I took delivery; I did open and grease the throttle tube cover at the heat cable. 
How did do you like the Nakeds and what do you mean, +30mm taller bar risers.
 
I'm a dyed in the wool sportbike ATGAT rider who due to a neck injury (riding friggin bicycles for cross-training and health) I "sport toured-up" my VTR1000F but still after hopping off the FJ-09 and jumping on the VTR (I'm being figurative because at my age and size I cannot hop or jump very high) I feel and look like a gorilla on a kids bicycle!
 
Hence the lower bars but more sweep is just as important and I'm not sure if the Outlaw Racing TH-08 (http://store.outlawracingproducts.com/ouraaha.html) will be too low and have enough sweep; decent quality product though especially for the retail (Amazon) price.

[peporter]

Thanks, waiting for 16 x 1.5 mm tap set ($14) to tap new handlebars ($55, lower, yes lower with more sweep), MP R1 cable ($16) and Bolt clutch push lever ($14). 
I hope the new bars are not too low (reduced height and rise) and have enough sweep, otherwise I'm going for the Renthal Street Nakeds but the intial swap at least would be good practice.
 
I know it was a different thread but how would one most easily and effectively sand down the knurling on the clutch end of a handlebar?

I am using the Street Nakeds, and am very happy with the additional height, rise, and sweep. I am also using Vibranators which came with the tap. I didn't have to go with longer throttle cables, and was already using  a Motion Pro clutch cable that was 1 1/2" longer so no problems there. The KTM hand guards work just fine also. All told, much reduced vibration and more comfortable ergos. 

[wal]

i used a file 1st to take the tops off slightly, then 240 grit wet/dry , ending with 400 grit, this also handily left a nice snug fit for the heated grips i was fitting, ready for the glue  
i went with Renthal street nakeds and opposite to you, 30mm risers....

Thanks, I have the OEM heated grips the dealer installed before I took delivery; I did open and grease the throttle tube cover at the heat cable. 
How did do you like the Nakeds and what do you mean, +30mm taller bar risers.
 
I'm a dyed in the wool sportbike ATGAT rider who due to a neck injury (riding friggin bicycles for cross-training and health) I "sport toured-up" my VTR1000F but still after hopping off the FJ-09 and jumping on the VTR (I'm being figurative because at my age and size I cannot hop or jump very high) I feel and look like a gorilla on a kids bicycle!
 
Hence the lower bars but more sweep is just as important and I'm not sure if the Outlaw Racing TH-08 (http://store.outlawracingproducts.com/ouraaha.html) will be too low and have enough sweep; decent quality product though especially for the retail (Amazon) price.

the oem low bars were making my wrists ache, too straight, but i wanted a bit higher too, so got 30mm risers ,  the Renthals were much better, a bit more sweep backwards, felt like a more natural angle...(for me )  since then ive looked at the bars on a Versys 1000, looks like i could have just got them and not needed the risers, nice sweep and about 30mm higher than the Tracer.....such is life, experience is never cheap...lol 
and being as we are discussing cables, for anyone wanting info, 30mm rise is just about max you could get away with using oem cables....
 
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CNC-30mm-BAR-RAISERS-RISERS-FOR-28mm-FAT-HANDLE-BARS-1-1-8-KTM-990-EXC-250-450-/181646807747?hash=item2a4afe52c3:m:mSNq3CN0zNGCBIs_awHtS5A
 
 
 

[clint]

...this weekend... it is going to be tremendous! 8-)  
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Very nice sir! I re-used the washer and circlip (Jesus-clip) from existing. Works fine. 
Funny thing was that when I attached all the parts and pulled in the clutch, I thought "Well, that doesn't really feel any lighter....does it?" Does it?!?!
 
Then I went for a ride and THAT'S when I noticed it. Definitely a lighter pull on the clutch!
 
I know there are some who are retrofitting the XSR slipper clutch, but I swear the FJ-09 is one of the sweetest shifting gear boxes I've experienced. Hundreds of thousands of miles on Ducatis (false neutrals), BMWs (Agricultural), Kawasakis, Hondas, Suzukis, etc. The FJ doesn't shift seamlessly, but it DOES shift positively and never misses a gear. With such a broad powerband, I can click two up or two down at a time without a complaint from her! Love this bike!

[oldguy44]

I ordered the Bolt clutch lever pt.# 5s7-16340-00 from the local Yam. shop here in Anthem Az. and received it in 8 days. Not too bad for a part that wasn't supposed to be in the US.

[2and3cylinders]

We must have doing our thing at the same time this weekend!
 
I installed the Bolt "Push Lever" but did not change the washer and C-clip (though I did squeeze in closed), and bent the HOLDER, CLUTCH CABLE 1RC-15441-00-00 outer flange slightly and shimmed it up with 2 washers to align the holder better with the angle of the longer Push Lever. Because the two bolts that fasten down the clutch cable holder were really tough to remove I had to use a heat gun and luckily had a special ratchet wrench that takes a 5 mm hex driver because of the very limited clearance above the holder. I installed a Chinese manufactured Motion Pro R1 cable which did not appear to have a nylon or Teflon sheath on the cable itself but maybe the inside of the cable outer is so lined (I did lube it with MP's fantastic Cable Luber V3 though).
 
The install of the Outlaw Racing Products "Low TH-08" bar (with about 1.375" total height but more natural drop and slightly more sweep) went smoothly. After fitting it initially I removed it and trimmed about 8 mm from each end (I had previously drilled out the I.D. and 3-stage tap set and cut the 16 mm threads deep enough anticipating shortening this bar which was 8 mm longer than the OEM overall length of 790 mm). Unfortunately, I'll have to wait until spring to really see if I like the new handlebar but won't mind by then except for the cost if I have to go to the Renthal "Street Naked".  I also rotated the OEM bar risers 180 degrees so the bar is 10 mm closer to me.  To do so, you must loosen but not remove the nuts retaining the risers.  I used a 14 mm socket initially on a 3/8" wobble extension and breaker bar, then used the socket on a 3/8" to 1/4" drive adapter on a short 1/4" wobble extension on a 1/4" ratchet , and used this set-up again to tighten the nuts. I'll be able to test the clutch when I warm it up to check the throttle bodies and valves, and change the spark plugs but it did feel the pull required was more than OEM. Hopefully when running it is better!
 
BTW, I tried at first to trim one end of the bar with a Home Depot Husky tube cutter (PN 1000 002 732) but it and another tube cutter I had kept "walking" off the cut line (spiraling), so I used a good old fashioned hack saw and somehow managed to get the cut very close and square. The I tried the tube cutter again and succeeded. It was actually slower than the hack saw. Either way I had to file, chamfer slightly and sand both bar ends to meet my standards (250 ~ 1,00 grit wet-dry sand paper). The cutter was probably the less stressful of the two.
 
The below photo of the installed bar was before I reinstalled the KTM hand guards. I used first a coarse then medium grit Dremel 1/2" sanding drum to remove the indexing pins on the throttle, right and left control "pods", and only needed one wrap of quality electrical tape to get the right kill switch/mode pod to clamp the bar snugly enough. I also sanded down the knurling on the bars left hand grip zone; maybe too much so; although I did not "glue" it on with my usual application of Aqua Net "Extra Super Hold" hair spray (no smoking please). I did fill the bar solid with Crossman Corp. "Copperhead" copper coated premium BBs.  Can you say smooth?
 
Important question:  How many spline teeth did you rotate the push arm clockwise?  After trying one, then two, then three and finally four splines (after the second try I stopped reinstall the C-clip, doh!), I think I ended up 3 spines clockwise.  This left the upper adjuster with maybe 4 threads showing beyond the adjuster thumb wheel and plenty of tightening room but not much ability to loosen the cable free-play. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[wal]

is an oem R1 clutch cable a straight swap.....

[2and3cylinders]

is an oem R1 clutch cable a straight swap.....

 
It's about 1 inch longer, hence needing to rotate the push arm outward (CCW) even with the 5 mm longer Bolt push arm. I also bent the clutch cable holder to meet the geometry of the push arm. See above.

[2and3cylinders]

Not sure what you mean by "DNA" but I did index the clutch actuation shaft to the push lever with a red colored marker.
 
I used the OEM clutch cable to pull up and through the R1 clutch cable (it took longer to remove the duct tape I connected them together with than pull it through, doh!), so maybe the route on my bike was longer or my R1 cable is slightly shorter so the crimp in the cable sheath is below the guide.  The sweep of the cable above the triple clamp is gentle enough but I'll try to pull it up so the crimp is above the guide and see if this improves the sweep.
 

 
No one has responded to my above and now following "Important question: How many spline teeth did you rotate the push arm clockwise? After trying one, then two, then three and finally four splines (after the second try I stopped reinstall the C-clip, doh!), I think I ended up 3 spines clockwise.