patrickjs5 Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 After changing my oil two days ago, everything seemed fine. No leaks, engine started right up, all seemed well. I haven't ridden since then, and went to start my bike for a ride, only for the following symptoms to manifest: [ul type=disc][*]Took 20-30 seconds, many presses of starter button, well-timed throttle blip for engine to start[*]Odd rattling coming from engine at idle[*]Rear wheel rotating while in Neutral even with clutch pulled in[*]Some smoke emanating from exhaust, leaving residues on the swingarm[*]Oil sight glass is "full" before and after engine is run, completely empty while engine was running (made me realize I can't remember what it looked like pre-oil change)[/ul] Ok, clearly not riding today, so I shut her down and took the car to work. I really don't know what could cause these symptoms. All I can think of is that I added too much oil, so the engine is burning some of it off, hence the smoke and odd rattle. This doesn't explain why the wheel was rotating or why it had so much trouble starting. Any idea what the issue is, or other feedback? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 To much oil would be a great start, I would crack the filter and drop a bit out. I cant seem to balance my bike and check the oil sight, so I get a helper to check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kernowjim Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 1. Oil change would not affect starting - so no idea what is happening there, totally unrelated 2. rattle at idle could be cam chain tensioner or clutch basket - pull clutch lever in at idle, does the rattle stop? Cam chain will quieten down with oil pressure. 3. rear wheel rotation is normal in neutral and is caused by the rotating oil mass turning the transmission 4. smoke on the exhaust would be caused when some dripped onto it whilst you were draining it - it will burn off 5. sight glass will show empty when engine is running due to the oil being pressurised by the pump and diverted away from the sump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 Hmm. Sketchy and nerve wracking. Chances are nothing is wrong. My FJ doesn't want to start after its been sitting a couple of days too. Sometimes its noisy on start up. Give it a second. Rear wheel rotating in neutral and sight glass showing empty while running are completely normal. '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Trambo Posted August 9, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted August 9, 2017 Oil sight glass should not be "full" when engine is off, when bike is not on center stand and centered straight up & down. If it is it's overfilled, which on newer bikes can lead to problems. (Do a quick Google search, you'll see more info there) And it's very easy to overfill the oil on this motor, finding the sweet spot between the low & high marks takes a little effort and patience when filling. As Josh mentioned, I'd crack the filter loose and drain a bit out, get that level closer the low mark. I've discovered this motor seems much happier with the oil level on the lower mark. 2015 Stealth Grey FJ-09 Pilot Base of Operations: Chesterfield, VA Farkels? Lots, nothing flashy, but all functional... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member DavidS Posted August 10, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted August 10, 2017 Oil sight glass should not be "full" when engine is off, when bike is not on center stand and centered straight up & down. If it is it's overfilled, which on newer bikes can lead to problems. (Do a quick Google search, you'll see more info there) And it's very easy to overfill the oil on this motor, finding the sweet spot between the low & high marks takes a little effort and patience when filling. As Josh mentioned, I'd crack the filter loose and drain a bit out, get that level closer the low mark. I've discovered this motor seems much happier with the oil level on the lower mark. I've had the same experience, so now I only fill to the low mark or a bit over Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member micah2074 Posted August 10, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted August 10, 2017 " Posted by josh 4 hours ago . To much oil would be a great start, I would crack the filter and drop a bit out. I cant seem to balance my bike and check the oil sight, so I get a helper to check " Check it on the center stand. Let’s go Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickjs5 Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 Thanks everyone for the responses. Last night she ran much smoother. I am convinced that there is a little too much oil, resulting in a few of the symptoms described, and the rest were one-offs. I'll either crack the filter to drain a bit (sounds messy) or take a turkey baster and suck a few drops out via the filler cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh Posted August 11, 2017 Share Posted August 11, 2017 Ahh just crack-er into a container and use a bit of brake clean to wipe up. Easy peasy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted August 11, 2017 Share Posted August 11, 2017 its easier to unscrew the oil filter to get the extra oil out... or drain it all out into a nice clean pan and just put back in 2.5-2.75QT of oil...anything over 3QT will push the oil level past the oil level window... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adjuster Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 With a new filter, the slightly longer Purolator BOSS, 3 full quarts works just fine. But more would be an issue. IF you run low, the oil level light comes on. (Not a pressure switch, but a level switch. You can see the sensor in the pan.) Level on the center stand, you should be able to see oil in the sight glass when it's not running, and it might drop to nearly not there while running, as the oil is pumped up into the engine/head, and has to run back into the pan before being pumped back into the engine. If you use a high mileage rated oil, it might have too much moly in the additive package, and that can cause your clutch to become sticky/grabby. This will rotate the rear tire at idle in neutral, since there is a mass of oil being pumped around by the gears, and it starts to rotate the wheel. When the oil is hot, and not as thick, that effect drops or goes away completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJ29ER Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 I ran into this issue when I first got my FJ. I was putting the recommended amount of oil that was stated in the owners manual and it was "overfilling" it. Symptoms were random hard starts. Did the oil change twice thinking I was measuring wrong. Nope. So the third change I manually filled it right in between the lines. Still hard start... So I thought about it for a second and thought of issues with over filling the oil... well it blew the extra oil into the air box and soaked the air filter. Changed air filter and no more hard starts. My rear tire when cold always moves when first starting. Stops after it has warmed up. Just friction from cold thick oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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